p38 2.5 dt changed pump wont start

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uen76

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Hi New to forum and this is my first Landrover:)

So got my p38 2.5dt on ebay as a non runner!

It had a cracked block and the guy had fitted a engine out a 325tds but could not get it to run and was told he would have to change the pump over so he gave up and now i have it:)

I bought the tool to change the pump and after cranking her over for about 3 minutes she started went to 2000rpm for 3-5 secs and cut out so convinced it was air in the system i kept trying and it was the same every time until today i tried after charging battery all night she started the same then after 5 secs the revs shot up to 3500 and cut out now it will not restart?

As always with buying someone elses project putting it back together when you never stripped it down!

The air temp sensor on inlet manifold I cant find a connecting cable for it and it is also fitted with a Van Aaken performance box but this is not connected to the new engine will any of this stop her running any advice would be appreciated thanks
 
I had the pump removal tool and refitted with same procedure had to rotate shaft on pump from 3 oclock to 9 for pump to align with the engine. This was the way a mechanic friend instructed me to do this
 
uen76 said:
I had the pump removal tool and refitted with same procedure had to rotate shaft on pump from 3 oclock to 9 for pump to align with the engine. This was the way a mechanic friend instructed me to do this
Click to expand...

You need to time the pump with special tools, you cannot just throw it back on. You need a flywheel locking pin to lock engine at TDC number one then a special adaptor screwed into pump to attach a DTI gauge on to. Pump timing is done to thousandths of an inch. I suggest you get it done properly before trying to start engine again.
 
Last edited:
ok but when the engine was running for those 5 seconds it sounded sweet and smooth and did not give the impression of any timing being out?
 
uen76 said:
ok but when the engine was running for those 5 seconds it sounded sweet and smooth and did not give the impression of any timing being out?
Click to expand...

The timing for your pump will be at TDC 0.90 mm +- 0.02 mm or (0.035" +- 0.0001" ) lift on cam. That is the static start point all the electronics work round. It can move a little towards retarded due to chain stretch but it can never go advanced. Think you may have it far too advanced and the fuel control can't handle it so the ECU has shut down to prevent damage. Get someone who knows what they are doing to look at it. First of all get the pump timing checked. Then you will know where you are. If the problem then persists you can look for something else.
 
Many thanks for such detailed info
A diesel pump is something I have no experience with so I will look for someone that can do it for me thanks
 
Hi sorry to be a pain but my tool guy has after a long wait just delivered my crankshaft locking pin so i can set engine to tdc so i can get pump timed. Can someone tell me where on the block does the locking pin go as cant see any obvious port and cant find location on google. Many Thanks
 
uen76 said:
Hi sorry to be a pain but my tool guy has after a long wait just delivered my crankshaft locking pin so i can set engine to tdc so i can get pump timed. Can someone tell me where on the block does the locking pin go as cant see any obvious port and cant find location on google. Many Thanks
Click to expand...

Just below CPS you will see a plug pull it out position pin goes in there. Do you know how to time your pump? Do you have the special tools to time your pump. You will need to follow the instructions in RAVE.
 
Im getting a loan of dial guage and adapter from local mechanic and you gave me settings earlier. I've never done this before but my father has (not with RR) and he says if i get engine locked and a guage then he will have a go with the settings you gave me and thanks for that
 
uen76 said:
Im getting a loan of dial guage and adapter from local mechanic and you gave me settings earlier. I've never done this before but my father has (not with RR) and he says if i get engine locked and a guage then he will have a go with the settings you gave me and thanks for that
Click to expand...

There is a method you need to follow download RAVE and read it. There is a link to RAVE download in my "How To".
 
Ok thanks will let you know when its done and running still have a issue with no lead and connector for air temp sensor but will worry about that when its eventually up and running cheers
 
uen76 said:
Ok thanks will let you know when its done and running still have a issue with no lead and connector for air temp sensor but will worry about that when its eventually up and running cheers
Click to expand...

Do i take it you have fitted a none EGR engine to a vehicle with EGR?
 
Well i dont know! This is why my local mechanics wont touch it as the previous owner fitted new engine out a 325tds and couldnt get it to run! So i bought it as a non runner with bits of old engine in boot! so i can borrow any tools i need but they wont look at someone elses half finished job! at a guess i would say its no egr as there is no other evidence and previous owner did say he changed everything over but you can never be sure what he has done in truth
 
Well Ive bought puller and changed pump to one off original engine now just need timing set on it ! When i got car he couldnt get top of pump onto one on new engine so thats why i changed pump assuming top is original RR but in truth i dont know! Always new this car was a gamble guy was going to scrap it so only paid 400 for it so figured its a gamble worth taking and im confident i will get it back on the road
 
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