P38 2.5 dse Cold Start Problems

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Shaneyboy26

New Member
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8
Hi All

I started to have problems recently with my P38 2.5dse starting when cold, I put this down to the slighty cooler mornings. So I have changed the glow plugs thinking this was the problem typically for me it has not resolved the issue. Whilst changing the plugs we noticed that the injector with the cable for the electronic sensor was weeping slighty when the engine was running could this now be why I am having starting problems?

The RR starts after about four or five turns of the key waiting for the pre, heat light to go out, where as up until recently it started on thr button first time.

Has any one else had similar problems? and discovered the fixes!!

Cheers

Shane
 
Hi All

I started to have problems recently with my P38 2.5dse starting when cold, I put this down to the slighty cooler mornings. So I have changed the glow plugs thinking this was the problem typically for me it has not resolved the issue. Whilst changing the plugs we noticed that the injector with the cable for the electronic sensor was weeping slighty when the engine was running could this now be why I am having starting problems?

The RR starts after about four or five turns of the key waiting for the pre, heat light to go out, where as up until recently it started on thr button first time.

Has any one else had similar problems? and discovered the fixes!!

Cheers

Shane
You need to fit good quality glowplugs, NKG, Beru, Delphie or Bosch specified for the P38. Cheapo glowpluugs or the wrong spec and they will not work.
Check the leak off pipes.
 
Hi All

I started to have problems recently with my P38 2.5dse starting when cold, I put this down to the slighty cooler mornings. So I have changed the glow plugs thinking this was the problem typically for me it has not resolved the issue. Whilst changing the plugs we noticed that the injector with the cable for the electronic sensor was weeping slighty when the engine was running could this now be why I am having starting problems?

The RR starts after about four or five turns of the key waiting for the pre, heat light to go out, where as up until recently it started on thr button first time.

Has any one else had similar problems? and discovered the fixes!!

Cheers

Shane

How long does the glow lamp light for each time? Could be ECU temp sensor has gone down or you have disconnected it fitting plugs? Causing default 50 degrees to be used. So the glows will not heat for long enough. Could also be lack of battery voltage at plugs. It should not take four or five attempts to get the plugs hot. Which by using four applications is all you are doing.
 
Hi All thanks for your replys!!

I have used bosch glow plugs and changed all the leak off pipes for new ones!!

Wammers the glow light stays on for three to four seconds, we have checked the voltage to the glow plugs which was good, I have recently put a new battery and alternator on so all voltages etc are ok!!

Still wondering if it is the sensor on the leaking injector that is causing probs?

Cheers
 
Hi All thanks for your replys!!

I have used bosch glow plugs and changed all the leak off pipes for new ones!!

Wammers the glow light stays on for three to four seconds, we have checked the voltage to the glow plugs which was good, I have recently put a new battery and alternator on so all voltages etc are ok!!

Still wondering if it is the sensor on the leaking injector that is causing probs?

Cheers

Not long enough check the ECU temp sensor. Nothing to do with injector four that is for timing purposes when the engine is running.
 
About 2 months ago I had exactly the same problem even the leaking injector
not say your is the same but because the injector is leaking its letting air in and fuel will drain back to tank! Ok you say but the intank pump will lift it back up and yes it will unless it too fails as mine did and starting gets harder untill eventualy it wont start at the moment your fip is sucking from the tank and although there very good a pushing there no good at sucking and when the air geting in gets worse the battery will die befor fuel reaches the engibe
 
Last edited:
About 2 months ago I had exactly the same problem even the leaking injector
not say your is the same but because the injector is leaking its letting air in and fuel will drain back to tank! Ok you say but the intank pump will lift it back up and yes it will unless it too fails as mine did and starting gets harder untill eventualy it wont start at the moment your fip is sucking from the tank and although there very good a pushing there no good at sucking and when the air geting in gets worse the battery will die befor fuel reaches the engibe


After more investigation today, when the engine has not been run for a while we can see air in the fuel pipe from the pump/filter to the pump on the engine, so we are now thinking that four or five attempts with the pre heat is building enough pressure in the fuel line to bleed the air out where as trying one pre heat light it just cranks and wont start!

So next step is to replace leaking injector as see if that resolves the cold start problem.

Checked how long the preheat light stays on is actually 7-8 seconds!!
 
After more investigation today, when the engine has not been run for a while we can see air in the fuel pipe from the pump/filter to the pump on the engine, so we are now thinking that four or five attempts with the pre heat is building enough pressure in the fuel line to bleed the air out where as trying one pre heat light it just cranks and wont start!

So next step is to replace leaking injector as see if that resolves the cold start problem.

Checked how long the preheat light stays on is actually 7-8 seconds!!

Change number four injector and bleed system. That should sort your problem. 7 to 8 seconds is fine.
 
Hi All

I have changed number 4 Injector and touch wood (fingers and toes crossed) the starting problem has been sorted!!

Thanks for you replys I'm sure i will be back here in the future!! it is a P38 after all!!
 
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