P38 2.5 DHSE Engine noise and oil light

Thanks good information, yeah agreed on bolt not being tight enough just wanted to see if the oil pump was still working, my key is inside the cover so going to see if I can borrow a small camera to fit in there and have a look.

I didn't think there was any key, drive is just by friction which is why the bolt has to be so bludy tight.

Datatek said:

I didn't think there was any key, drive is just by friction which is why the bolt has to be so bludy tight.

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Oil pump is trapped between crank and chain sprocket pressed to it by drive flange. That is why bolt is so tight. Chain sprocket is retained by a Woodruff key this key also engages on drive flange to maintain timing mark orientation. Vibration damper is orientated to drive flange by a dowel.

Oh, so there is no key for the pulley?

Saint.V8 said:

Oh, so there is no key for the pulley?

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See amended post ^^^^^^^^. I just knew someone would ask that.

vtwin said:

Fitted the damper and pulleys back on today, could only tighten the crank bolt against compression as the key is gone but ran it for a short while to check if I had oil pressure and it was 68psi on high idle just after starting, I tried it later in the day and it was 65psi. So at least the oil pump is working and the engine sounded normal. I keep looking at the manual and the engine thinking I should give it a go and repair it, the only thing that worries me if the crank turns out to be damaged where the woodruff key fits.
Got to buy a cheap car ASAP as stuck here in the boondocks without one.

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Against compression is nothing like tight enough. You need to replace woodruff key. A special tool is used to hold the drive flange, torque to 100 Nm then angle tighten 150 degrees. Each flat on nut point to point is 60 degrees so you need to mark a nut point on flange after initial torque and turn bolt two and half flats to the mark.

Ahhhh..... I see.

And damn thats tight..... If I recall correctly, the 200Tdi was 80N.m then 90deg. (I could be wrong) and that was a sod!!

I did a cambelt on a 1.8 petrol C5 a few years ago and the crank belt sprocket spun freely on the crank until you did the pulley nut up - and that's how it was - keyless by design.

Fergie46 said:

I did a cambelt on a 1.8 petrol C5 a few years ago and the crank belt sprocket spun freely on the crank until you did the pulley nut up - and that's how it was - keyless by design.

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Renault did that also... It was to allow the crank pulley to be fitted to different engines. I suppose after making 1m of the bugger's it saved them a lot of money. Like shrinking the heads on bolts from 17>16mm and 19>18mm.
Saves a lot of pennies per million.

GENERAL QUESTION . Can a old crank shaft bolt take a full torque, and would you use thread lock.

dubbleRR said:

GENERAL QUESTION . Can a old crank shaft bolt take a full torque, and would you use thread lock.

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Yes and no.

Now there`s a nice straight answer for you

No, it can't be used twice. It ALWAYS comes loose when reused, been there few times. Don't do that, new bolt is cheap.
Buy new from BMW or LR and then torque up to spec.

N2O said:

No, it can't be used twice. It ALWAYS comes loose when reused, been there few times. Don't do that, new bolt is cheap.
Buy new from BMW or LR and then torque up to spec.

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Nonsense.

wammers said:

Nonsense.

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+1

N2O said:

No, it can't be used twice. It ALWAYS comes loose when reused, been there few times. Don't do that, new bolt is cheap.
Buy new from BMW or LR and then torque up to spec.

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You do spout some utter crap at times. Tightened to that torque there is no possibility of it coming loose. I will agree fitting a new one is wise. But if the cars service history shows it has never been removed before, using it again should not a problem. But if unsure fit new. But they most certainly don't always come loose if torqued correctly that is a ridiculous statement

Back for seconds so soon Wammers? That's just greedy.

If he simply said it's unwise to refit the old one then I'd back him over your suggestion that the finite history of said bolt could perhaps be found in the history,
now that's utter bollocks, .....and then you agree with 99% of HIS bollocks, lmfao.

Your good, don't spoil it.

Correctly torqued - job done. No need to slap loctite all over it. Once upon a time there used to be very specific locations that required loctite - now I find the stuff plastered everywhere.

myfirstl322 said:

Back for seconds so soon Wammers? That's just greedy.

If he simply said it's unwise to refit the old one then I'd back him over your suggestion that the finite history of said bolt could perhaps be found in the history,
now that's utter bollocks, .....and then you agree with 99% of HIS bollocks, lmfao.

Your good, don't spoil it.

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The service history if complete should reference any chain or oil pump work which would require bolt removal. If it doesn't or is incomplete or there is no service history fit a new one by all means. But the statement that if reusing one it will always come loose is totally ridiculous.

Removed sump today and coolers in the front, the portion of the key that drives the damper and pulleys has indeed sheared off but the crank seems to be ok, so I think I will take a chance on spending some more gold on it, head off next and then front cover as the timing chains will have to come off to get the new key in.
The question is where do I stop, its done 140K miles, uses a bit of oil about a pint a month, fires out black smoke like hell if I give it the big boot, quite a bit of oil in intercooler and hoses when I removed them today.
Going on line to order cam tools tonight, I see sets on flea bay ranging from 80 to 100 quid?
I reckon timing chains and guides will be a must?
Anything else recommended while its apart?
Thanks, Murray.