P38 2.5 DHSE Engine noise and oil light

I believe you can replace the chains without removing the head

A light misting of oil in the intercooler and pipes is normal, if there is quite a bit and you say its using a pint a month and its not from an oil leak sounds like the bearings in the turbo are worn.

Yes could well be right on the turbo, I will get the pipes off and see how much movement there is.

vtwin said:

Removed sump today and coolers in the front, the portion of the key that drives the damper and pulleys has indeed sheared off but the crank seems to be ok, so I think I will take a chance on spending some more gold on it, head off next and then front cover as the timing chains will have to come off to get the new key in.
The question is where do I stop, its done 140K miles, uses a bit of oil about a pint a month, fires out black smoke like hell if I give it the big boot, quite a bit of oil in intercooler and hoses when I removed them today.
Going on line to order cam tools tonight, I see sets on flea bay ranging from 80 to 100 quid?
I reckon timing chains and guides will be a must?
Anything else recommended while its apart?
Thanks, Murray.

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Mine's done more miles than that and uses very little oil. Where's it going?! Turbo?

Mine does smoke a bit when foot on the floor. Check all airways clear. Top of the rocker cover has a metal mesh inside that gets gummed up. All that will need clearing out. Intercooler should be flushed regularly, at least every 10k miles. Failing that it could be #4 is funny and it is running on default values.

As for parts, well, where do you stop? You can get a replacement engine for not much off the Bay, although who knows the condition? Certainly chains, sprockets and guides if you're going in that far. Plus new glow plugs and general service items like filters. Injectors while you're about it? Belts. When was the water pump last done?

I have one on 132k miles and one on 235Km neither use oil unless flat out on the autoroute. Never normally have to top up between 6K mile services.

Thanks, I am waiting for tools to arrive, I bought this one at 100K with no provided service history and I have found many missing small bolts and screws so it makes me think the engine may have been out. Anyway I will check the turbo and also see how much carbon and gunge is in the inlet manifold. It was running pretty good, part of the oil use was leaks and I have a new cooler and hoses to fit while I am at it, I have also noticed a bulge in a transmission cooler hose so will change those as well. Water pump was changed at 120K. Injectors sounds like a good idea and should help with the black smoke when giving it the big boot.
Found a Comac hot start device in a 35mm film pot, didn't even know I had one! Don't know if its needed but will leave it alone for now as its been working and starting.
Murray.

vtwin said:

Found a Comac hot start device in a 35mm film pot, didn't even know I had one! Don't know if its needed but will leave it alone for now as its been working and starting.
Murray.

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If it works ... with new chains it won't need it anyway.

Nightmare of a day, two cylinder head bolts were rusted in the block and the heads sheared off, took all day to get them out last thing I needed. Tried mig welding a nut on the top but it just kept breaking so cut through the heads with a slitting disc a few times and chiselled the rest off, once the head was off it took ages with plus gas and a pipe wrench to free them off enough to get them out. Still to get the front cover off.

vtwin said:

Nightmare of a day, two cylinder head bolts were rusted in the block and the heads sheared off, took all day to get them out last thing I needed. Tried mig welding a nut on the top but it just kept breaking so cut through the heads with a slitting disc a few times and chiselled the rest off, once the head was off it took ages with plus gas and a pipe wrench to free them off enough to get them out. Still to get the front cover off.

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Jesus. Bad luck there. These motors always chuck a swerve-ball in there and it is usually a corroded bolt being a PITA. Hope the rest is a bit more straightforward.

Head and block cleaned up and both look ok with no signs of cracks or warping. Front timing cover removed, timing chains and gears off, the woodruff key was sheared on the half that drives the pulleys, hopefully I will pick the new key up tomorrow to see how good a fit it is in the crank.
My TDC timing pin tool is a good tight fit in the block but when engaged in the flywheel I can still move the crank a smidger back and forwards I assumed it would be locked solid, thinking about it I reckon it could never be an exact fit unless custom made?

vtwin said:

My TDC timing pin tool is a good tight fit in the block but when engaged in the flywheel I can still move the crank a smidger back and forwards I assumed it would be locked solid, thinking about it I reckon it could never be an exact fit unless custom made?

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Yes, it moves back and forth a whisker. It only goes through 2 holes so it is bound to move a bit. Don't ever turn the engine backwards though.

With a properly dimensioned and located timing pin the engine should not move at all in either direction.

TDC pin is 7.88 and 11.59 dia. It was in a kit from Paddock.
The turbo seems to be ok on movement of the spindle up and down and end float. looking at the hoses it looks like the same amount of oil was going in the air side as coming out the other side, I have yet to dismantle the valve cover and look at the mechanism in there to stop oil getting through.

vtwin said:

TDC pin is 7.88 and 11.59 dia. It was in a kit from Paddock.
The turbo seems to be ok on movement of the spindle up and down and end float. looking at the hoses it looks like the same amount of oil was going in the air side as coming out the other side, I have yet to dismantle the valve cover and look at the mechanism in there to stop oil getting through.

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Should not be any discernible movement of crank. How much movement have you got with pin in? If pin is located in one of the many large holes around the periphery of the plate and not the timing pin hole you will get several mm movement in either direction.

You need to ensure that the pin is located properly. Or you will be in deep shit timing static and more importantly cam.

wammers said:

You need to ensure that the pin is located properly. Or you will be in deep shit timing static and more importantly cam.

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He said a smidger. That says just enough to see to me.

Grrrrrr said:

He said a smidger. That says just enough to see to me.

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You can feel more movement than you can see. Quarter to half of a mm movement at the pin position which is about what he should be getting with his pin dimensions is neither seeable nor feelable at the front of the crank.

Put the dial gauge on the piston top and found TDC and put the pin in and seems spot on, maybe I had the wrong position after all (**** hey), waiting for parts quote now. Spent a few hours running taps in the blind holes to clean the crap out.
The old gaskets had a thin layer of sealer applied to the edges and around the bolt holes and the head gasket around the front section that joins the timing case, is that the way to go.

Sealer should be applied to the joint line between the block and the timing cover. The head gasket will have sealer on it to take care of everything else.

tomcat59alan said:

Sealer should be applied to the joint line between the block and the timing cover. The head gasket will have sealer on it to take care of everything else.

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Hylomar Blue is Wammer's favourite and having tried it I can see why.