P0327 knock sensor 1 circuit low...

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I went out and bought an ODB2 ELM327 wifi reader, and apart from the fun of watching stuff in real time on the ipad, it showed the temp sitting at 94C, and also had a code.

'P0327 knock sensor 1 circuit low'

Can anyone tell me what the problem is? (A dead sensor?)

(D2, 2004, V8)
 
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Indeed. Here's what I found:

Verify the resistance of the knock sensor (compare it to factory specs)
Inspect for broken/frayed wires leading to the sensor
Check the wiring and connections leading to/from the knock sensor and PCM/ECM
Verify proper voltage is reaching the knock sensor (e.g. 5 volts)
Verify proper grounding of sensor and circuit
Replace the knock sensor
Replace the PCM/ECM

Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0327
 
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cgheck RAVE for that, you'll find everything there, e.g:[QUOTE="ENGINE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM - V8 - DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION 18-2-37]Knock Sensor (KS)
The ECM uses two knock sensors located between the centre two cylinders of each bank to detect pre-ignition. The
knock sensors consist of piezo ceramic crystals that oscillate to create a voltage signal. During pre-ignition the
frequency of crystal oscillation increases, which alters the signal output to the ECM. The ECM compares the signal
to known signal profiles in its memory. If pre-ignition is detected the ECM retards ignition timing for a number of cycles.
If no more pre-ignition is detected, the timing is gradually advanced to the original setting.The ignition is calibrated to run on 95 RON premium fuel, but the system will run satisfactorily on 91 RON regular fuel.
If the vehicle is refuelled with a lower grade fuel, some audible detonation will initially be heard. This is non-damaging
and ceases when the system adaption is completed.
Input/Output
Because of the nature of its operation, the knock sensors do not require any electrical input source. The KS output
for LH bank (cylinders 1, 3, 5, 7) is measured via pin 49 of connector C0636 of the ECM. The KS output for RH bank
(cylinders 2, 4, 6, 8) is measured via pin 36 of connector C0636 of the ECM. Both knock sensors have a screened
earth to protect the integrity of the sensor signals. The KS earth for LH bank (cylinders 1, 3, 5, 7) is via pin 48 of
connector C0636 of the ECM. The KS earth for RH bank (cylinders 2, 4, 6, 8) is via pin 35 of connector C0636 of the
ECM.
The connector and sensor terminals are gold plated for corrosion and temperature resistance, care must be exercised
while probing the connector and sensor terminals.
The KS can fail the following ways or supply incorrect signal:
l Sensor open circuit.
l Short circuit to vehicle battery supply.
l Short circuit to vehicle earth.
l Faulty component.
l Incorrectly tightened sensor.
In the event of a KS signal failure any of the following symptoms may be observed:
l KS disabled, the ECM refers to a 'safe ignition map'.
l Rough running.
l Engine performance concern.

The ECM performs the following diagnostic checks to confirm correct knock sensor operation:
l KS signal level is less than the minimum threshold (dependent on engine speed) – the engine must be running,
coolant temperature above 60C (140F), number of camshaft revolutions since start greater than 50 and the KS
signal profile must be less than the threshold value at a given engine speed for a fault condition to be flagged
l KS signal is greater than the maximum threshold (dependent on engine speed) – the engine must be running,
coolant temperature above 60C (140F), number of camshaft revolutions since start greater than 50 and the KS
signal profile must be greater than the threshold value at a given engine speed for a fault condition to be flagged
l Error counter for verification of knock internal circuitry exceeded – the engine must be running, coolant
temperature above 60C (140F), number of camshaft revolutions since start greater than 50 and the error
counter greater than the threshold value at a given engine speed for a fault condition to be flagged[/QUOTE]
 
The cable looks like someone may have been at it... Black insulation tape wrapped around it about six inches from the sensor plug. It's also just hanging there - the clip the screws onto the block is minus the screw and not connected to anything.

It's just a couple of normal looking bits of 12v wire. I thought it was supposed to have some sort of special RF insulation(?)

Anyone know if the cable & plug that runs down to the sensor, unplugs from the loom? If not, maybe I should just cut out the manky bit and solder in some fresh cable..?
 
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Also, I just read somewhere else that old spark plugs &/or leads can produce this code too? What do you think?
 
So I undid the insulation tape and found......

Shielding and core shorted together and twisted by hand to connect with the other bit...!

Was going to solder them back together but my iron is broken, so I made up 4 connectors and did it that way.

Hopefully now when everything else is back together the code will be gone.
 
Update:

I cleared the code and took her for a couple of hours run this morning, to pick up some new aux belts.

Checked when I got back and no more code :)
 
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