P0100 and P0110 are permanent and return when cleared

Hi Guys,

Am I right in thinking that the above codes would point towards the MAF wiring harness. Any information or advice appreciated.

Thanks,

WIll

Could be the MAF itself, unplug and clean connector first, check for damaged wiring. Mike

Can you read the live data? That's often the best way to diagnose a faulty MAF.

Also, has the car had an oiled air filter like the K&N in it at some point. This can coat the MAF and throw error codes. You can clean this off by removing the MAF and using a high quality cleaner that leaves NO residue, with emphasis on the high quality. Mike

Thanks Guys, I'm servicing it next week so will give it a clean out then and check the wiring. Live data appears ok nodge found a thread on here and my figures matched up to someone with an ok MAF. Car drives perfectly and pulls throughout the rev range, which is what made me think the wiring as oppose to the MAF. I'll update you after the service hopefully with a clean they will disappear.

What airflow readings are you getting? Are they progressive through the rev range?
It must be MAF season as the MAF in the wife's BMW failed on me yesterday

That's not good bet she wants yours until you get it fixed haha. From what I remember they were progressive through the range I'll take some data tomorrow and post.

VVill said:

That's not good bet she wants yours until you get it fixed haha. From what I remember they were progressive through the range I'll take some data tomorrow and post.

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Technically the BMW is her summer car, it's a convertible and she's just taken delivery of a new Ford Kuga for daily use.
I've been using the Beemer as I've now sold my D3 and the V5 hasn't come through for the Freelander. I guess you could say, I'm between cars. So I thought, I'd give her BMW a few days commute, just to top the battery up. Well day 3 and it's busted. It's banging into gear (auto) , engine is hunting and the workshop symbol is lit. So I run a diagnostic which shows a MAF over read fault. Looking at the live values, the MAF is giving 140 CFM which is about 1/2 power signal at idle!!
I'm hoping the new MAF will be delivered today.
I can't wait to get into the Freelander though. At least I won't get any grief if it throws a wobbler.

Haha, I felt the same when I had a hire car (Astra SRI) couldn't wait to get back in a Freebie. How did it go with the MAF, did the replacement sort the issue? Really busy weekend, sorry for the late reply. Had both cars on the diag today and both MAF are are messed up, one is reading too high and the other is reading too low throughout the range. I've just ordered a Synergy 2a with pierburg for the project and a cheap one for the other (going to be sold as soon as I'm done with the project).

VVill said:

Haha, I felt the same when I had a hire car (Astra SRI) couldn't wait to get back in a Freebie. How did it go with the MAF, did the replacement sort the issue? Really busy weekend, sorry for the late reply. Had both cars on the diag today and both MAF are are messed up, one is reading too high and the other is reading too low throughout the range. I've just ordered a Synergy 2a with pierburg for the project and a cheap one for the other (going to be sold as soon as I'm done with the project).

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The wife's Beemer is a petrol so shouldn't show anything like 140CFM at idle, 25 to 30 CFM would be more realistic. I got a cheap MAF just to see if the problem went away. However it was still messing about for a while after fitting it. The air flow readings are more realistic now showing 30 CFM at idle and 220 CFM at 5K RPM off load. Investigation into the odd running will continue.
I did some live date readings of the Freelander on Sunday. At idle the MAF is showing 140 CFM and over 800 CFM at 4K rpm! That seems high to me so looks like I've got an over reading MAF. I think a Synergy 2 and replacement MAF are in order.

At the bottom of this page tuning-diesels.com/75Zt/R75maf.htm are the figures I went by. On the project car my readings were pretty much identical to the very faulty MAF. My other one rather oddly was 514 at idle with lower figures throughout the rev range.

Scratching my head, received my Synergy 2a with pierburg MAF and fitted today, both error codes are still return once cleared and MAF readings are the same as before. Now black smoke above 2000rpm when go pedal to the floor and slow acceleration. Any ideas, car was driving fine before fitting the Synergy, finished too late today to play about so will have a go tomorrow. Cleaned all connectors before install and car was running fine with no smoke. I'm leaning towards a fuel rail wiring harness issue but cant understand why I'm still getting faulty MAF readings from a new pierburg and synergy. Any ideas appreciated

I'm guessing you have the Synergy on the correct settings for a Pierburg MAF?

I think so, put it on six with both fuel and air togs down

Found the issue, the intercooler hose t-bolt wasn't tight enough, no smoke and car pulling lovely, taking it for a long drive to clean out the lungs after fitting egr bypass

Does anybody have any ideas as to what I can do next ? Still have both error codes that return after clearing. Have thus far cleaned the connectors and installed a new MAF with synergy. I've seen on searching that astras have this issue and is due to a faulty earth in the connector, could this be the problem? When I get a chance I'm going to test the connectors earth (pin 3 I think). Any ideas as to what this issue could be are most appreciated.

Thanks,
Will

VVill said:

Does anybody have any ideas as to what I can do next ? Still have both error codes that return after clearing. Have thus far cleaned the connectors and installed a new MAF with synergy. I've seen on searching that astras have this issue and is due to a faulty earth in the connector, could this be the problem? When I get a chance I'm going to test the connectors earth (pin 3 I think). Any ideas as to what this issue could be are most appreciated.

Thanks,
Will

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is it physically getting enough air passing through maf

Live data looks ok, is there any other way to check? What you thinking ? There are no leaks in any hoses all changed for silicone and just replaced the air filter.

Anyone have any ideas?

either a sensor is reading right and so fault lies with what it reads or sensor is faulty