Overlanding wheel and tyres combo suck! advice needed.

Sidebar · May 25, 2013

Hello. We are Saffa's overlanding SAmerica in our 130 TD5. Have been having an issue with our tyres since our excellent BF muds died on the way south.
The great Patagonian ( rubber and rim) fail. | a2a Expedition

Our issue now is that we have the 750/16's tube type tyres with tubeless wheels. We have had numerous punctures and have spent a small fortune on tubes. We have tried putting in tube protectors but the valve is not long enough and we inevitably have more punctures. Now we have 3 tyres running without tubes but are reluctant to do any off roading with the incorrect tyre / wheel set up.

So some questions:

-can I run the 750 / 16 tube tyres on the Tubeless wheels in all conditions.
-should I try and source new tube type wheels from the UK and if so which tube type wheels
-are there any other vehicles which run on the same wheels
- the tyres are narrow and the wheels have almost no off set. As a result the Landy is not as stable especially off road and around corners. Will fitting 30mm wheel spacers help avoid this?

Thanks guys.

goonarmy · May 25, 2013

sounds like you want new BFG muds.

tacr2man · May 25, 2013

Your problems are most likely caused by the Quality control labels that are applied inside the tyre casings. These are not usually a problem as the tyres are mostly used tubeless nowadays. If used with tubes the glue , and heat cause the tube to perish very quickly and you get a puncture which quite often rips the valve off . This was a common occurrence in australia , I was a tyre dealer as part of my business out there and had to deal with this all the time. The td5 rims would be tubeless rims , so you should be able to run tubeless tyres, which is preferable for several reasons , tyres run cooler so do better mileage, if you have a puncture the object generally help plug the hole and the tyre will lose pressure gradually , and may even be re-inflated to continue to a better place to change or fix the tyre . The 750 r16 tyre will be ok on a LR 130 rim but a 265 is a better choice , from my experience , with a 130 DC HCPU. Tyre sleeves are not needed and are to be avoided . Make sure that the tubes you are being sold are indeed 750X 16 not a smaller section or diameter. Ideally get Michelin or Dunlop/goodyear tubes if available . Dont use wheel spacers . have you changed the rims or are they standard 130 rims as they have extra offset . HTSH

Sidebar · May 25, 2013

goonarmy said:
sounds like you want new BFG muds.

Would give my gentlemans vegetables for a new set of BF's

Sidebar · May 25, 2013

tacr2man said:
Your problems are most likely caused by the Quality control labels that are applied inside the tyre casings. These are not usually a problem as the tyres are mostly used tubeless nowadays. If used with tubes the glue , and heat cause the tube to perish very quickly and you get a puncture which quite often rips the valve off . This was a common occurrence in australia , I was a tyre dealer as part of my business out there and had to deal with this all the time. The td5 rims would be tubeless rims , so you should be able to run tubeless tyres, which is preferable for several reasons , tyres run cooler so do better mileage, if you have a puncture the object generally help plug the hole and the tyre will lose pressure gradually , and may even be re-inflated to continue to a better place to change or fix the tyre . The 750 r16 tyre will be ok on a LR 130 rim but a 265 is a better choice , from my experience , with a 130 DC HCPU. Tyre sleeves are not needed and are to be avoided . Make sure that the tubes you are being sold are indeed 750X 16 not a smaller section or diameter. Ideally get Michelin or Dunlop/goodyear tubes if available . Dont use wheel spacers . have you changed the rims or are they standard 130 rims as they have extra offset . HTSH

Thanks for that great reply. I think a huge part of my problem is that the rims I was able to source in Punta Arenas were ex Chilean Army issue, probably from a Series vehicle. As far as I can tell the rims are 16x5.5 or 16x6 which are too narrow for a 265/75R16 even if I could convince SWAMBO to part with the cash.
ps. wheel spacers a good idea or no?

tacr2man · May 25, 2013

You need to get your original 130 rims back if at all possible , as the other rims are totally unsuitable. . It will affect your steering and stability .Wheel spacers are a no no. If need be get some shipped from UK . Not being funny but SWAMBO hasnt got the required knowledge to make the cost benefit decision . Ending upside down in a ditch is not how you want your trip to end . It would be better to not go the whole proposed route and get the correct vehicle set up . You can always carry on later , your probably young enough to have the time to do that . What they call pressonitis has killed a lot of pilots ! JMHO .

Sidebar · May 25, 2013

tacr2man said:
You need to get your original 130 rims back if at all possible , as the other rims are totally unsuitable. . It will affect your steering and stability .Wheel spacers are a no no. If need be get some shipped from UK . Not being funny but SWAMBO hasnt got the required knowledge to make the cost benefit decision . Ending upside down in a ditch is not how you want your trip to end . It would be better to not go the whole proposed route and get the correct vehicle set up . You can always carry on later , your probably young enough to have the time to do that . What they call pressonitis has killed a lot of pilots ! JMHO .

SWAMBO wants a word with you...

Do you know where we can source the 130 rims in the UK? We wanterd to bring in a set of these 6705165BKMO | 16x7 Black Modular but AFAIK they are tubeless rims. 16x7 though so I will be upgrade to a 265/75/R16 when the 750's need replacing.

tacr2man · May 25, 2013

I have looked on the usual sites but 130 rims are a bit thin on the ground , craddocks list some but mega money . The modulars will do the job but you want +20 not +8 offset . This will give you the same steering lock as the original steel 130 rims . The early 130 had the same rims as the 127 which were the old FC rims. You will be better off to run tubeless , the 130 was only with tubes because of the tyres they supplied OE which were michelin 750R16 . HTSH , apologies to Swambo

ruffday · May 26, 2013

I think you will be fighting a losing battle until you get the correct tubeless tyres fitted to the tubeless rims.

GINGE · May 26, 2013

ruffday said:
I think you will be fighting a losing battle until you get the correct tubeless tyres fitted to the tubeless rims.

Agreed.

There is a reason most tyres are tubeless nowadays.

Overlanding wheel and tyres combo suck! advice needed.

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