Overheating/Pressure build up problen

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gforcegraham

New Member
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6
Hi all need help?????????

After 10 miles my 1.8 dumps its water? so far the HG has been done, new expansion bottle & cap and yesterday new thermostat & housing.

Been on a run and its done it again and when i felt the bottom hose it was cold, the 2 fans where running but rad felt cold so checked but not blocked. No signs of oil in water or water in oil.

Any suggestion

Graham
 
When you say it dumps its water what exactly are you saying? Is the water leaking? Problems like this may be multifaceted, I only solved mine by replacing all of the hosework and intalling an simple loop system with an electric water pump. The whole cooling system in the K series is a bit naff and benefits from attention. But that was just me being adventurous, I'm sure yours won't need such drastic measures.

Will.
 
Hi all need help?????????

After 10 miles my 1.8 dumps its water? so far the HG has been done, new expansion bottle & cap and yesterday new thermostat & housing.

Been on a run and its done it again and when i felt the bottom hose it was cold, the 2 fans where running but rad felt cold so checked but not blocked. No signs of oil in water or water in oil.

Any suggestion

Graham

Try bleeding it properly! How old is it? Where's the thermostat? Does the rad get hot before it dumps it? Does the heater get hot? Is the thermostat opening? Bit more info needed:D


DD
 
The whole cooling system in the K series is a bit naff and benefits from attention. measures.

Will.

Your are so rite. Quite who and why thought it would be clever to put the stat on the cold side of the rad is beyond me. A lot of the lotus guys use a normal pre-rad stat on there K series engines !!
 
It was done to reduce thermal shock. It just seemed to have caused bigger problems.

I fail to see the logic!! There is more thermal shock suddenly dumping over cooled water into an over hot engine?? It's miles better to allow the engine to heat up and slowly bleed it's hot water swapping it with cooler water from the rad?
 
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The logic was....
On an overcooled system, having the thermostat on the engine output... The thermostat would open, pushing very cold water from the rad into a hot injun. By putting the thermostat on the return side, the coolant temp could be better controlled. Unfortunately this meant that the injun could boil before the thermostat opened :(.

Hence that's why it is possible to have a cooked injun and " the temperature gauge never rise above midway"
 
The logic was....
On an overcooled system, having the thermostat on the engine output... The thermostat would open, pushing very cold water from the rad into a hot injun. By putting the thermostat on the return side, the coolant temp could be better controlled. Unfortunately this meant that the injun could boil before the thermostat opened :(.

Hence that's why it is possible to have a cooked injun and " the temperature gauge never rise above midway"

You would have thought the designers might have thought it would cause reliability problems long and not so long term? The sudden cooling is compounded by the engines light weight too. I think engine mass is the only thing stopping the KV6 going down the same HGF route as it weighs twice as much as the 4 pot!!
 
You would have thought the designers might have thought it would cause reliability problems long and not so long term? The sudden cooling is compounded by the engines light weight too. I think engine mass is the only thing stopping the KV6 going down the same HGF route as it weighs twice as much as the 4 pot!!

But it does!
The KV6, it can be argued is as bad as the 1.8. It is the same basic design, the rear bank of the V is against the bulkhead and therefore gets little or no air cooling and the thermostat is hidden in the V and regularly cracks, loosing coolant where it can't be seen, until you remove the covers to replace the, by then fried, heads :(.

Do not be complacent. Sequential HGF is likely on the KV6!
 
Hi what i mean by dumped is the water blows out through expansion bottle cap, both are new, the thermostat is in a plastic Y junction, again its new. ive blown through the rad and thats clear.The heater blows hot when driving then cold when at idle.

Graham
 
Did I mention my 1.8 still hasn't blowed up;)


DD

I accept that. There are some good (lucky?) ones out there. If it goes wrong you have the skills to fix it. I've never said " don't buy one", only go into it with your eyes open. It is prone to HGF. Either be prepared to fix it or have deep pockets. For you it is fine, for a mum with kids, the doozils are better options.
 
Hi what i mean by dumped is the water blows out through expansion bottle cap, both are new, the thermostat is in a plastic Y junction, again its new. ive blown through the rad and thats clear.The heater blows hot when driving then cold when at idle.

Graham

Heater shouldn't be cold at idle! Except when engine cold of course, I'd start with leading it properly and take it from there, have you used the two bleed points?


DD
 
But it does!
The KV6, it can be argued is as bad as the 1.8. It is the same basic design, the rear bank of the V is against the bulkhead and therefore gets little or no air cooling and the thermostat is hidden in the V and regularly cracks, loosing coolant where it can't be seen, until you remove the covers to replace the, by then fried, heads :(.

Do not be complacent. Sequential HGF is likely on the KV6!

The KV6 is more reliable than the 4 pot but complacency will kill it!! I don't think many just die on there own though, it's normally a water leak that causes an air lock!! Oddly it's more reliable in an MG ZS than any other Rover??
 
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