Overheating after fitting new Thermostat?

ok. looks like its Ironite to the rescue...

So when I use that, i put it in and let idle again for a while... or do i take it for a spin and take the risk it dont overheat?

garydavidson123 said:

ok. looks like its Ironite to the rescue...

So when I use that, i put it in and let idle again for a while... or do i take it for a spin and take the risk it dont overheat?

Click to expand...

If you must use it... follow the instructions to the letter

But surely I still have air in the system? as I cannot get water to flow out the stub/nipple top left of the rad? only hot air and steam? Or does this still point down a crack?

hi.no water from bleed pipe could indicate a failed water pump.there is no water circulation,even if the water pump bearings are good,the plastic impeler inside the pump could b knackered.it took my rangy 1 weak 2 bleed air out,wht i did was letting it idle without the exp cap until water came out of exp followed by a big air bubble.try accelerating at idle while looking at the exp tank small hole does water squirt from it upon acceleration.remember max 2000rpm.

My dad did mention the water pump.. as when it engaged/disengaged there was really any water movement through the pipes or in the tank.. is there anyway of diagnosing that without removing it...

But the water only evers gets taken from the header tank, it never goes back there.. and the bottom of radiator does seem a lot cooler than it should be...

Shall I change the water pump?

ru sure u didn't catch any leaks in the pipes or heater o rings or even the heater matrix itself?check also the gasket of the throttle,there is a bleed pipe going from there to the exp tank.abt the water pump,if air is present in the system the water pump impeller will cavitate.and it won't circulate the water.it is more than a device to circulate water no concept of sucking is present.there is a hole in the water pump aka 'eye' this hole will leak water out in case of the bearing failure.as to check the pump according to my experience u can't diagnose it properly if there isn't any play in it nor water leakage.its impeller is plastic and they deteriorate at even less than 80k kms if the cooling systen wasn't maintained properly.anti freeze is very important as anti corrosion also.as u have read in the forum,people tend to rodd the rad,change the tstat,check for leaks,change the vc fan,b4 heading to the hg and blocks.check 4 those things first.keep it simple.good luck.

theres no leaks anywhere.. am I checking the throttle gasket for leaks of water or air?

Anyone know any mobile range rover experts who can fix it in essex? otherwise I'll have to dump her at a garage as its all getting a little over my head nearly...

header tank was empty again this morning and no leaks under the car either...

Right the car holds about 11.4 litres of coolant. thats 2.5 gallons old money.

before we put the cart before the horse and go filling things full of gloop

do you Know how much fluid you have put in?

gary.do u have rave?if u do,read abt the cooling system,it shows u the way water circulates arround the engine.i am talking abt water not air leaks.water will circulate under the plenum chamber,that's wht i meant by throttle.sorry.

i must have put well over 11 litres in it by now.. its just getting boiled and turned into steam.. the bottom of the rad doesnt really get warm, only the top, which made me think the waters not getting pushed around the system, and especially as no water comes out the top of the rad..

i mean everything else seems fine, thermostat, rad, head gasket.. it must be just a stupid air lock somewhere.. i dont think its a crack in the head, as i can make the heaters blow and cold by putting the header cap on and off, which points towards air in the system? am i right?

"the bottom of the rad doesnt really get warm, only the top,"

I think this may be (part of?) your problem - blocked Rad. I'm having similar problems with my 4.2 classic after head gasket problems, to buy time I used a block sealer which worked, now after top end rebuild, it idles fine and short, low speed journeys are OK, but work it hard and it boils and pukes. Top of rad is too hot to touch but lower down is cool. Rad was recored 2 years ago so gloop has blocked it. It's going to a rad specialist to try to flush it, but may have to re core again. Garden hose can't supply enough volume to check flow rate. Take rad out and get it checked/rodded/recored. Or replace it.

My sympathies . . .

Alastair

I did have the rad out and just stuck it under the garden tap, shook it a few times and brown come out.. but thats all i did.. water seemed to go through it fine.. but has it got to be a certain flow then?

hi gary.
the best way to cure a blocked rad is by replacement....unless ur down on money,do like i did,go to a rad shop,they will remove the rad and rodd it....

I have a local radiator refurb place round the corner, so I might try that AND a new water pump... gonna cost maybe £100 for both..

Or shall I just stick in a garage and see if they can diagnose the fault... or should the above two fix the situation?

1.blocked rad (4 blocked elements is enough to cause overheating)
2.coolant leaks (pipes clamps,broken hoses,needle size punctures,matrix o rings,matrix)
3.blocked hoses (only way to test is remove/replace)
4.water pump (leaking from "eye".noisy bearing,bearing play,no water coming back 2 exp)
5.viscous fan clutch (not engaging,slow fan turning.rolled newspaper against fan blades 2 test,if it can be stopped=it is faulty)
6.tstat (cold bottom rad hose=stuck closed,temp needle playing=stuck open)
7.serpentine belt (cracks,dry,slipping=faulty)
8.dirty condenser, (if u have a/c) (prevents air circulation)
9.expansion cap faulty=coolant going out,air staying in (valve stuck open or close)
10. airlock (all mentioned above)
these include water and air circulations,these things must be CAREFULY CHECKED.it is ur checklist,the first thing to do BEFORE looking for hg failure,porous block,slipped liners.
as for ironite,it is ur choice,but in my humble opinion it must be used ONLY when all of the above was checked,replaced,done !!! and no money for new block !!!...
and it is a temporary fix as most of the well reputated/experienced members have told u.
it is ur choice to take it to a garage to diagnose or rodd ur rad...! Most of the gentlemen here will explain and inlighten u and share their experiences.the choice is urs...
good luck

1.blocked rad (4 blocked elements is enough to cause overheating)

2.coolant leaks (pipes clamps,broken hoses,needle size punctures,matrix o rings,matrix) - NO LEAKS

3.blocked hoses (only way to test is remove/replace) - DONT THINK SO

4.water pump (leaking from "eye".noisy bearing,bearing play,no water coming back 2 exp) - WATER IS NOT GOING BACK TO EXPANSION TANK

5.viscous fan clutch (not engaging,slow fan turning.rolled newspaper against fan blades 2 test,if it can be stopped=it is faulty) - FAN IS FINE

6.tstat (cold bottom rad hose=stuck closed,temp needle playing=stuck open) - NEW THERMOSTAT FITTED AND TESTED

7.serpentine belt (cracks,dry,slipping=faulty) - LOOKS FINE

8.dirty condenser, (if u have a/c) (prevents air circulation) - NOT EVEN THOUGHT ABOUT THAT

9.expansion cap faulty=coolant going out,air staying in (valve stuck open or close) - EVERYTIME I PUT BACK ON IT GETS HOT AND BLOWERS GO COLD
10. airlock (all mentioned above) - PROBABLY

Ok. so if water isn't flowing out of the little stub on the top of the rad could it hopefully be a relativley cheap repair (eg. possible rad or water pump?) or even just an airlock still..

garydavidson123 said:

I did have the rad out and just stuck it under the garden tap, shook it a few times and brown come out.. but thats all i did.. water seemed to go through it fine.. but has it got to be a certain flow then?

Click to expand...

the brown water that came out is k seal, was your rad heavy?. if you can flush your rad again and let the sun shine on the brown water, it will have like gold bits in it..

j the range said:

the brown water that came out is k seal, was your rad heavy?. if you can flush your rad again and let the sun shine on the brown water, it will have like gold bits in it..

Click to expand...

Could be another victim of the don't fix it, mask it and sell it syndrom. There are lots of them about.

I am feeling that a little bit too.. but just dont want to believe it.. but should I still not be able to get water flowing out the top of the rad? and see movement of water back to the expansion tank?

I'll check the plugs later to see if they've been steam cleaned