Overheated in this weather! Any ideas?

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SuperDaz

Active Member
Posts
105
Location
Stourbridge
Morning all, 1984 90 - 2.5 N/A. I've not used it for a couple of days, yesterday was -14 and today was -10. It started fine and I left it ticking over while I de-frosted my wife's car. Got a couple of miles up the road and noticed the temp guage in the red. Jumped out and opened the bonnet and water was coming out of the expansion tank pipe. Also, the heater was still blowing cold.

I've come back home and had a look and can't see any steam/water coming from anywhere apart from a tiny bit from the top of the rad (possibly due to the pressure that has built up). I can't see any core plugs out and the thermostat housing was hot to touch so I guess that's ok?

Could there be ice inside somewhere, restricting the water flow? Or is it something else?
Any suggestions welcome.

Daz
 
had it froze up?

what strength anti freeze are you using ?


I'm not actually sure what strength anti-freeze was in there, which, on reflection is probably a big mistake :doh:

So, assuming that it had frozen up, what would cause it to overheat? Would it be a blockage of ice? Will it melt and be ok? (If so, I'm off to get some new anti-freeze as soon as I can drive it).

Daz
 
So, assuming that it had frozen up, what would cause it to overheat?

go on have a think about why it would over heat :)

if your unsure as to what fluid is in there best off draining it all out and filling with some known good anti freeze - don't just try topping it up
 
Classic symptoms of something frozen. Could be the block, water pump hoses, heater hoses, or the heater matrix itself. If the pump was frozen you would have heard the belt squealing as it would not turn. A frozen rad is no big deal in this weather other than the risk of bursting. Chances are the thermostat would not open at these temps.

I'd get it thawed out and use a 50/50 antifreeze mix. Thats whats in my TD5 at the moment. My V12 Jag used neat antifreze all year round. Obviously you'll need to check from leaks from the core plugs and every other joint in the cooling system.

If you can get it into a garage and get some heat on it that will do the trick otherwise you'll have to resort to a heat gun and hot water to melt things until you can get the engine warmed. Or if you can get hold of a space heater that will work even out doors. Just remove the radiator grill otherwise it will melt and get it blowing through the rad and into the engine space.
 
If you can get it into a garage and get some heat on it that will do the trick otherwise you'll have to resort to a heat gun and hot water to melt things until you can get the engine warmed. Or if you can get hold of a space heater that will work even out doors. Just remove the radiator grill otherwise it will melt and get it blowing through the rad and into the engine space.

I've found a few of those 500w security lights very handy for defrosting - they don't half chuck out some heat
 
Classic symptoms of something frozen. Could be the block, water pump hoses, heater hoses, or the heater matrix itself. If the pump was frozen you would have heard the belt squealing as it would not turn. A frozen rad is no big deal in this weather other than the risk of bursting. Chances are the thermostat would not open at these temps.

I'd get it thawed out and use a 50/50 antifreeze mix. Thats whats in my TD5 at the moment. My V12 Jag used neat antifreze all year round. Obviously you'll need to check from leaks from the core plugs and every other joint in the cooling system.

If you can get it into a garage and get some heat on it that will do the trick otherwise you'll have to resort to a heat gun and hot water to melt things until you can get the engine warmed. Or if you can get hold of a space heater that will work even out doors. Just remove the radiator grill otherwise it will melt and get it blowing through the rad and into the engine space.

Thanks boys.

I, what appears to be naievely, thought that as soon as the engine ran, it would melt any ice in the pipes etc.

I know I have to put the new antifreeze in before tonight, but I don't want to put it in until I'm sure nothing has ruptured.

I know that replacing with decent anti-freeze is a must. But to drain it effectively I need to thaw it out. No garage space available, no space heater available. The water pump/ fan belt didn't squeal and the block must be melted after driving a couple of miles? So, if I top it up with hot water and run it, surely that will melt any frozen pipes?

If the heater matrix is frozen (which it sounds like it is) I presume that if I run it long enough, that will melt eventually?
 
If the heater matrix is frozen (which it sounds like it is) I presume that if I run it long enough, that will melt eventually?

aren't you bothered about the engine over heating ?

you might want to look at getting one of those cheap camping gaz heaters to get some warmth on it, running the engine knowing that parts of the cooling system are blocked is very risky IMO - the sun is out here - can't you just park it outside for a few hours ?
 
aren't you bothered about the engine over heating ?

you might want to look at getting one of those cheap camping gaz heaters to get some warmth on it, running the engine knowing that parts of the cooling system are blocked is very risky IMO - the sun is out here - can't you just park it outside for a few hours ?

I agree, think about the damage that will be caused by it consently overheating :)
 
My day started this morning with me accidentally spilling a cup of coffee into the bag containing my college work and a recent credit card application:doh:

I'm having one of those days

aren't you bothered about the engine over heating ?

Yes, very bothered. I meant keep running it but only until starts to get hot. Then letting it cool/melt.

I'll leave it in the sun and get a lift to fetch some anti-freeze. They say things come in three's so I'd better be careful today.
 
If the heater matrix is frozen just connect the two heater hoses together with a piece of 15mm copper pipe and bypass the heater until you can get it unfrozen. You need the heater hoses clear as they are the bypass for when the thermostat is closed. If they are clear then you could run the engine for 10 minutes at a time to thaw out the engine but it wont do the rad or the heater matrix. If they are frozen then the hot water from the engine has nowhere to go. Dont get the engine too hot though. Slowly slowly catchee monkee is definitely the way to go here.

To thaw the heater run the fan and point er indoors' hairdryer into the air intake. Once its all thawed flush and fill with water to check for leaks before putting in your antifreeze.
To thaw the radiator take it off and put it in a bath of hot water. Much quicker and more comfortable than trying to heat it in situ.
 
Thanks all.

Now thawed out, took it for a good run, heater working and no overheating or obvious leaks (phew!!)

Putting in antifreeze now but not as much qty as in book gone in, so possible air lock, going to pick little 'un from school soon so see how it goes.

Thanks for advice all!
 
All seems ok now. I've managed to put 5 litres of antifreeze in so it should almost be a 50/50 mix so I should be well covered.

Lesson learnt today.
 
Lucky then :) , We have a LDV minibus at work thats frozen solid --- cant even squeeze the top hose its that frozen .......

gonna laugh when it defrosts and find the blocks cracked , rad split etc :D .
 
Car has been fine for 2 days but stuck in traffic today and noticed anti freeze in the snow after taking little 'un to school. It now seems like the water pump is leaking :(

Would rad-weld fix it or am I clutching at straws?

Daz
 
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