On a scale of 1-10 how bad is this ?

I started the car up this morning (-3*C) and noticed the oil pressure light took 2-3 seconds to go out after the car started idling...

The car has 10W40 oil in it that was changed less then 1,000 miles ago, and this has never happened before.

I started the car up again a few times during today as I had to go out quite a bit. And the light only took 1-2 seconds to go out on the later start-ups!

However, when I first got the Landy it went out as soon as the engine started cranking - let alone idling!

So, is my oil pump on it's way out ?

3

A bit more detail on what damage it is doing (if any) and what is causing it please!?

Landy Boy1 said:

However, when I first got the Landy it went out as soon as the engine started cranking - let alone idling!

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was the weather warmer when you first got it ?

3 ! ya scare monger

Yep it was warmer.

Landy Boy1 said:

Yep it was warmer.

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what happens to oil when it's cold ?

OK I'm not 5! But usually the oil light goes out in a split second after starting in any temperature!

Landy Boy1 said:

OK I'm not 5! But usually the oil light goes out in a split second after starting in any temperature!

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how old are ya then ?

fit a britpart filter then worry about it

landy boy1 said:

ok i'm not 5! But usually the oil light goes out in a split second after starting in any temperature!

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4

As long as it goes out within 10 sec, don't worry about it.
If yer likes spendin munny and tinkering, you could try some 0 - XX grade oil for the cold weather.

As long as it isn't causing the engine any problems I'll just leave it.

Though, the engine does seem to "click" and run rough until the light goes out.

I've just came back from a drive and things are getting worse. I got onto a patch of road with no snow so I decided to give the Landy a good rev since she'd been crawling around at 1,500RPM all day in deep snow!

And as soon as the rev counter needle passed the 4,500RPM mark the oil light came on! As soon as I changed grear and the needle went below 4,500RPM, the light flickered on and off a few times then went out completely.

I went back up to 4,500RPM again a few times to double check, and it happens all the time.

This happened when the engine was fully warmed up by the way.

And the engine has stalled on me a few times, when it usually wouldn't. Like when the clutch was disengaged at a junction, it started shuddering then the oil light went on just before the engine cut out.

when did you check it's level last ?

do you know what the max revs are for a 200 ?

The governor for my 200TDi is 5,000RPM.

I checked the oil level as soon as I got home. It is bang inbetween the Max and Min.

you need to get an oil pressure gauge to see whats going on... the pressure senders and lights are hit and miss. low pressure at idles not a big deal... the rough running and stalling could be something more connected with the cold weather rather than oil starvation and engine seizing.... if there was really no oil pressure at 4500 revs its booggered or soon will be .

My mate has a computer thing that plugs into the ECU that will give a digital read out of the oil pressure. So I'll take the Landy over to his tomorrow and get him so give me his opinion as he was a mechanic for over 20 years!

Landy Boy1 said:

My mate has a computer thing that plugs into the ECU that will give a digital read out of the oil pressure. So I'll take the Landy over to his tomorrow and get him so give me his opinion as he was a mechanic for over 20 years!

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what's he going to plug his computer into ?

Landy Boy1 said:

The governor for my 200TDi is 5,000RPM.

I checked the oil level as soon as I got home. It is bang inbetween the Max and Min.

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have YOU altered the FIPs governor to increase it's max revs ?

I haven't done anything.

All I know is engine revs up to 5,000RPM.

Anyway, I got the car down to him earlier, and he told me what he thought when I met up with him later.

In a nutshell - The oil pump in knackered.

The pressure gets lower and lower as the engine revs, and goes really low over 4,500RPM. (Hence why the light illuminates).

He also said there was a whine coming from the pump, so he is 99% sure the bearings have gone.

I can get a new pump for £30, however I've heard I might have to lift the engine out to fit it ? Or can I do it from underneath ?