P38A OIls : how good is the new britpart10/40 semi synthetic

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OIls : how good is the new britpart10/40 semi synthetic

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Unless it was cheap I'd steer clear. Britpart is not a desirable brand thanks to there past record.
After starting a thread on oil not long back many will say use cheap 20/50.
I think use penrite hpr 10/50 hydrocracked fs
But 10/40 is one of the correct viscosities.
Jb
 
FYI checked with OPIE oils techs and their view that ZDDP oils are only really needed for older classic pre 1982 engines but thanks for input
cheers
GB
 
8 ltrs of Castrol Magnatec 10/40 it is then : Opie Oils supplied with 10% discount

Depends how often you change your oil (and filter). I do mine every 5k so it'd probably take anything. However, I tend to use 10/40 semi-synthetic either from Smith & Allan (eBay shop) or wait till Eurocarparts do a discount deal and get some semi-synthetic from there. If you get the 20l drums it is quite reasonable.

If you leave your oil changes longer then you'd probably be better with Shell or going full synthetic.

EDIT: I have the diesel. Check the RAVE spec for your engine and operating conditions.
 
Zddp i feel is important on the v8. Not on the diesel so much. Lumpy cams and strong valve springs make it extra useful. Classic oils bicester do a high zddp 10/40 for hot hatches. I prefer the penrite though. I definitely don ot like 20/50 mineral.
 
Zddp i feel is important on the v8. Not on the diesel so much. Lumpy cams and strong valve springs make it extra useful. Classic oils bicester do a high zddp 10/40 for hot hatches. I prefer the penrite though. I definitely don ot like 20/50 mineral.
120 quid for 8 litres. ... way too much ..
 
interesting thread link from bob the oil guy

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3973205/Castrol_Australia_and_ZDDP
quote ...
" However most oils from the 1950’s and 60’s had lower Phosphorus content than even the latest passenger car engine oils, i.e. it was typically 0.06% which is even lower than the 0.08% limit set by API SM.

ZDDP is a multifunctional additive; it has powerful antioxidant effect in addition to the antiwear characteristics. The size and type of the alkyl group attached to the Thio phosphate within the molecule influences the relative antiwear antioxidant balance of ZDDP additive. Over time Castrol have used modified ZDDP’s that are more intended for wear performance and substituted other materials to boost antioxidant performance of our engine oils. So looking at Zinc and/or Phosphorus levels alone does not tell the full story in terms of wear protection.

There has been discussion about using diesel engine oils instead of passenger car engine oils. Some of these do currently contain higher levels of Phosphorus, ZDDP, than passenger car qualified to API SL or SM. They have higher Phosphorus to help minimise soot related wear.

The higher level of Phosphorus is not a guarantee of satisfactory wear protection. As I said earlier, wear performance is related to the particular ZDDP being used. Also many of the diesel oils with higher Phosphorus also contain higher levels of detergent and dispersant which compete for surface area with the ZDDP which can reduce its effectiveness. During the development of the current API SM engine tests, a high phosphorus diesel engine oil was run in a flat tappet, push rod engine test and it failed the wear requirements with worse results than most low Phosphorus passenger car oils.

The first few minutes of operation for new cam and tappets are very important. Run-in is important for good long service life. Castrol have put considerable effort into understanding valve train lubrication. Research has shown one of the highest if not highest wear mode for a cam and tappets is while the engine is at idle. Running an engine at medium speed, say 2,000 to 4,000 rpm generates much less metal-to-metal contact between cam and tappet than at engine idle.

When running in new cams and tappets avoid idling as much as possible in the first 30 minutes to hour of operation. Make sure the cam and tappets are pre lubed with Moly grease and oil. Try to keep engine oil temperature above 80°C. Driving the vehicle or running the engine under load achieves that most quickly. The cam and tappets should be run-in by 250 to 500 km.

Also ZDDP is temperature activated so running the engine at low oil temperature also accelerates cam and tappet wear.

If a full synthetic engine oil is preferred then our Castrol Edge 0W-40 or Edge Sport 10W-60 is recommended. Again these are formulated to 0.10% Phosphorus maximum and can be used with flat tappet followers with confidence the same as Edge Sport 25W-50."
 
What's £120 for 8 litres? Penrite hpr is £120 for 20 litres Inc delivery. Hot hatches 10/40 ss with zddp is much cheaper.
Castrol edge is very pricey though. And still only hydrocrack.
 
This is the really interesting bit

I don't do a lot huge miles and low temp startup / coll oil running is the risk

quote " There has been discussion about using diesel engine oils instead of passenger car engine oils. Some of these do currently contain higher levels of Phosphorus, ZDDP, than passenger car qualified to API SL or SM. They have higher Phosphorus to help minimise soot related wear.

The higher level of Phosphorus is not a guarantee of satisfactory wear protection. As I said earlier, wear performance is related to the particular ZDDP being used. Also many of the diesel oils with higher Phosphorus also contain higher levels of detergent and dispersant which compete for surface area with the ZDDP which can reduce its effectiveness. During the development of the current API SM engine tests, a high phosphorus diesel engine oil was run in a flat tappet, push rod engine test and it failed the wear requirements with worse results than most low Phosphorus passenger car oils."
 
We use Chevron Supreme 10W-40 DIESEL oil in our V8's, keeps them nice and clean and never had any problems.

Costco sell it in bulk.

Our V8 had a short motor fitted when we bought it, it has done just over 90k on that engine and the original heads, camshaft and followers. A new front cover/oil pump, camshaft, followers etc are ready to fit when we hit 100k miles.

Peter

PS: all are D2 Thor V8's.
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