Worf
Member
- Posts
- 74
- Location
- North Yorkshire
Remove head, remove cylinder liner??
Oil Overfill
- Thread starter Rogan
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Remove head, remove cylinder liner??
Not that stupid charlie, thats the way to do it on bikes, and them horrible vw things.
Damn!
That was it, and then I did a 3,000 mile tour all through Sweden in it.
Never missed a beat.
I must have been VERY lucky!
CharlesY
Nope ... that was the 2CV motorised snail thing.
Mine was a 4 cylinder in line water cooled 1,911 cc engine.
CharlesY
Worf
Member
- Posts
- 74
- Location
- North Yorkshire
Cheated really. A mate of mine had a Big 15 in the late '60s that I did a bit of work on. (Yes, I am an old git)
:focus: 
Well serviced the dizzy gaps, oiled it etc. I did ham hand it, took me ages to unbugger my dizzy and cabling. :der:
Runs now though, just need to get someone with some art to get the tuning right.
Cheers for all the advice. Cue "omg threw a piston" post in a couple of days.
Well serviced the dizzy gaps, oiled it etc. I did ham hand it, took me ages to unbugger my dizzy and cabling. :der:
Runs now though, just need to get someone with some art to get the tuning right.
Cheers for all the advice. Cue "omg threw a piston" post in a couple of days.
Last edited:
:focus:
Well serviced the dizzy gaps, oiled it etc. I did ham hand it, took me ages to unbugger my dizzy and cabling. :der:
Runs now though, just need to get someone with some art to get the tuning right.
Cheers for all the advice. Cue "omg threw a piston" post in a couple of days.
Timings easy mucker, if you know when it's supposed to fire, ie 10 degrees before tdc or whatever. Find the timing marks, crank pulley or flywheel, turn the engine to that mark, then with the cover off the distributor, and rotor arm off, look at the points gap and if they are open close them by turning the dizzy, then turn it back until they just open. If you put your ignition on you will here a click of the spark as they open, but keep away from the cap as you can get a shock. In order for it to work properly obviously the points gap has to be set right.
If you had a light it would be that mark you would be looking for when it was running, however the above method is called static timing.
You can slip a fag paper between the points by springing them open a tad WITH THE IGN KEY OFF!
emember, the spark happens when the points OPEN, not when they close.
As you turn the distributor body, when the correct timing is reached the points will start to open and let the fag paper go.
People have been doing that since the 1920s. My dad showed me. He said did it in his Bullnosed Morris Cowley.
CharlesY
emember, the spark happens when the points OPEN, not when they close.
As you turn the distributor body, when the correct timing is reached the points will start to open and let the fag paper go.
People have been doing that since the 1920s. My dad showed me. He said did it in his Bullnosed Morris Cowley.
CharlesY
I did one in my morris minor aswel, and a ford escort until me maw caught me with her, was a nurse aswel. The mini's were too small, cute tho.
Timing marks weren't in the same place they are in the manual. :'/ Had to stick a screwdriver in piston #1 to find TDC, and then a tiny notch in the starter pulley showed itself, as did a bright mark from whoever did the timing before.
Not entirely sure what the bright spot denotes. I was thinking the marks would be for 3 and 6deg BTDC but I'm not sure. Is anyone at all familiar with this marking?
Also found something else odd. Drove the car for a mile yesterday, was tuned ok at the start of the journey, but by the end it was running really rich, a whole two turns off on the mixture screw. It was suggested that maybe the dizzy slipped, or that the tune wasn't done at running temperature, but two whole turns off seems a bit extreme. It's weird because at the start of the test run it was really sweet (well in comparison to before) wasn't kangarooing while coasting, very even engine note good pull etc.
I was worried I'd done something terrible, but spark plugs are just showing over-rich. I mean REALLY over rich, obviously, but there doesn't look like there's any damage.
One of the four nuts that holds the exhaust and inlet manifolds together was bubbling, and there was a metallic ticking sound of metal rearranging itself. The exhaust was rattling a bit when it was off tune the other day as well, if that gives any useful info.
Anyway off to do the static timing now, I knew there was a good reason to smoke roll ups. It's taken me a long time to find that reason. Perseverance.
Not entirely sure what the bright spot denotes. I was thinking the marks would be for 3 and 6deg BTDC but I'm not sure. Is anyone at all familiar with this marking?
Also found something else odd. Drove the car for a mile yesterday, was tuned ok at the start of the journey, but by the end it was running really rich, a whole two turns off on the mixture screw. It was suggested that maybe the dizzy slipped, or that the tune wasn't done at running temperature, but two whole turns off seems a bit extreme. It's weird because at the start of the test run it was really sweet (well in comparison to before) wasn't kangarooing while coasting, very even engine note good pull etc.
I was worried I'd done something terrible, but spark plugs are just showing over-rich. I mean REALLY over rich, obviously, but there doesn't look like there's any damage.
One of the four nuts that holds the exhaust and inlet manifolds together was bubbling, and there was a metallic ticking sound of metal rearranging itself. The exhaust was rattling a bit when it was off tune the other day as well, if that gives any useful info.
Anyway off to do the static timing now, I knew there was a good reason to smoke roll ups. It's taken me a long time to find that reason. Perseverance.
Last edited:
Timing marks weren't in the same place they are in the manual. :'/ Had to stick a screwdriver in piston #1 to find TDC, and then a tiny notch in the starter pulley showed itself, as did a bright mark from whoever did the timing before.
Not entirely sure what the bright spot denotes. I was thinking the marks would be for 3 and 6deg BTDC but I'm not sure. Is anyone at all familiar with this marking?
Also found something else odd. Drove the car for a mile yesterday, was tuned ok at the start of the journey, but by the end it was running really rich, a whole two turns off on the mixture screw. It was suggested that maybe the dizzy slipped, or that the tune wasn't done at running temperature, but two whole turns off seems a bit extreme. It's weird because at the start of the test run it was really sweet (well in comparison to before) wasn't kangarooing while coasting, very even engine note good pull etc.
I was worried I'd done something terrible, but spark plugs are just showing over-rich. I mean REALLY over rich, obviously, but there doesn't look like there's any damage.
One of the four nuts that holds the exhaust and inlet manifolds together was bubbling, and there was a metallic ticking sound of metal rearranging itself. The exhaust was rattling a bit when it was off tune the other day as well, if that gives any useful info.
Anyway off to do the static timing now, I knew there was a good reason to smoke roll ups. It's taken me a long time to find that reason. Perseverance.
Check the details for your carburator, if it's a fixed jet then I doubt that the screws make any difference to the running since they are only for idle mixture, once it comes off that it's onto main jet and float level would be the only item that would impact on it, other than changing to a smaller jet, or jets, main jet and air correction jet.
If it was ok at start of run, just make sure that the choke is coming off properly, when it was cold it would run fine but as it got hot it needs less fuel and more air.
It was totally fine under throttle, just when going back to idle at roundabouts etc. It doesn't need choke to start, so I haven't used it. I am pretty sure it isn't stuck on open chock though. :$ Actually, the only time I did use it was to get it started after it kept stalling.
Set my timing three times now, every time I tighten up the dizzy bolts it pops out of the bracket. lol. Maybe that's what happened. I've had to take a break from it as I've run out of swear words.
Set my timing three times now, every time I tighten up the dizzy bolts it pops out of the bracket. lol. Maybe that's what happened. I've had to take a break from it as I've run out of swear words.
Last edited:
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 13,392
- Location
- Luton
Remember there are different length dipstiks/markings for different engines a mate of mine had 2 in his tube one broken one and a wrong one giving him low very oil but on the dipstick it was full. Also the tube can slide down into the sump more than it should. If the garage measured the ammount of oil it should be right but nobody does that anymore! I don't think anything above has happened but its worth mentioning. Jai
Worf
Member
- Posts
- 74
- Location
- North Yorkshire
You have answered your own question there. It should need choke to start from cold. If is doesnt, then it is running way to rich and that is why you are having probs.
It was right on the tip of the dipstick, with the consistency of tar, when I picked it up. :s
I seriously doubt they measured the amount, maybe they did. I'll measure it in the next time I change it, which should be quite soon. Then I'll know about the levels on the stick.
Oops.
I'll keep that in mind when I'm having a go with the tune again.Have a look down the carburator when it's runing, you have the jet or area where it scooshes fuel when it comes off idle and onto main jet, you have a jet or drillings in the carb where it feeds fuel during idle, and you have a bit, the accelerator jet/pump which gives a scoosh of fuel when you initially press the throttle keeping the engine going until manafold depression/velocity drags fuel out the jet.
If that sounds complicated it's not, just check whats doing what and make sure for example the main jet aint flooding the carb on idle, with the engine off, operate the throttle and look down the carb and you will see the accelerator pump bit give a scoosh of fuel, on some carbs the diaphram goes and it delivers fuel all the time.
In relation to your distributor, make sure it is going right in, sounds like it aint and thats your problem. Is it just a gear on the bottom or does it have a slot where the oil pump is also driven. You might have to grab the rotor arm and give it a little wiggle or a slight turn back and forth of the engine to get it seated properly, or even a gentle tap.
Sounds like most of your problems are this carb, was it new, most carbs come ready to run with only minor adjustments, for it to run so badly it sounds like there is a fault in it. Real black sooted plugs is a flooding carb, when I was younger we used to fit webers to our motors, it made no difference which one we got as long as we got one, but my point here is that no time did they soot up the plugs or chuck out black smoke, ate fuel tho because they were for the wrong engine, so you have a problem with this carb.
Moneys on float level too high or accelerator pump diaphram gone, or you burst the gasket somewhere. Or and it's the last thing I can think of at the minute, the needle valve in the fuel intake, the bit that sits on the float, aint shutting off the fuel, you can check that by taking off the lid again and whilst blowing through the fuel intake lift the float and see if it shuts off. Whilst you are there make sure the gasket is ok.
But try the other stuff first, thats the diagnostics then look for why it's doing it.
It's a slot. The distributor and I came to an agreement, something along the lines of if it went in I wouldn't hit it with the big rubber mallet. In the end I had to loosen off the fine adjustment nut, tighten the pinch nut and then tighten the fine adjustment nut to get it all seated properly. PITA so it was. I still think it's not as far in as it could be.
Got rid of most of the pinking but lost 10mph off the top end. Well I'm not 100% sure because it got upto 50 and started to make some funky noises past there, so I dropped off. Starting to suspect the pinking is due to a knackered spring in the centrifugial advance and maybe it's a touch retarded, I'm shooting in the dark with these timing marks, the bright spot and markings have become covered by filth again; set it to where I thought it was but I'm not 100% sure.
The carb was new. I suppose it could just be the float height. Alternatively it could just be me being daft. I ran it up to temp again today, same thing happened with the idle falling off, so I put it back to 1 and 1/2 turns and richened it up again (CCW?). It really doesn't like running at 1 and 1/2 turns out on the mixture though. It's down to maybe 2 and 1/2 out now with a lot of throttle screw (revs really start to pick up at about 3 to 3 and 1/2 turns out) , but the exhaust smoke is still pretty acrid, no constant smoke any more, but it does make your eyes sting. Getting there.
I'll have another look at the plugs and peer into the carb tomorrow, thanks.
Last edited:
Smilemon
Member
- Posts
- 99
- Location
- Fairbanks, Alaska
Just some stupid things that made my rover plink and caused it to run bad that you should check out.
Spark plug gap. It was off on mine and caused all sorts of hell trying to set timing.
Idle speed/mixture. I run the car with the choke out a little most of the time, even when its warmed up. It helps it idle in the cold.
Distributor to coil wire, distributor to spark plug wires. I was getting really bad plinking on my rover, changed the rotor, no luck, changed the coil, no luck, changed the spark plug wires, ran great.
One time I was running rich and loosing power. I thought I had a fuel problem, what I had was an ignition problem, one loose wire in the dizzy was causing an irregular spark. Tightened things up, cleaned contacts, ran great.
Also, even sillier things, like good petrol, a clean air filter, and a new fuel filter helped the car a lot.
It ran like a shoebox with wheels, but after a good tuneup it's a great car. I run 45 - 55 mph into town almost every day about 8 miles with no problems at cruising, idling, and accelerating.
Spark plug gap. It was off on mine and caused all sorts of hell trying to set timing.
Idle speed/mixture. I run the car with the choke out a little most of the time, even when its warmed up. It helps it idle in the cold.
Distributor to coil wire, distributor to spark plug wires. I was getting really bad plinking on my rover, changed the rotor, no luck, changed the coil, no luck, changed the spark plug wires, ran great.
One time I was running rich and loosing power. I thought I had a fuel problem, what I had was an ignition problem, one loose wire in the dizzy was causing an irregular spark. Tightened things up, cleaned contacts, ran great.
Also, even sillier things, like good petrol, a clean air filter, and a new fuel filter helped the car a lot.
It ran like a shoebox with wheels, but after a good tuneup it's a great car. I run 45 - 55 mph into town almost every day about 8 miles with no problems at cruising, idling, and accelerating.
I've done most of that in my blundering around. Ripped the dizzy apart, rewired it all etc, did the points and gaps, checked the tappets. I think I have the timing off at the mo - tis 6deg BTDC and now I find it should be TDC on my engine. :s
Maybe when I get dizzy seated properly, the timing right, and retune it will be better.
Thanks for the info.
Maybe when I get dizzy seated properly, the timing right, and retune it will be better.
Thanks for the info.
