oil consumption

On a cold engine that would not be uncommon.

As you are turning it over very slowly, the compression would be expected to reduce as the gaps in the rings allow some of the presssure to escape either into the crank area of the engine or through a valve that isn't quite seated.

Either way, I wouldn't worry about it unless you are either burning a lot of oil or you don't have any power.

100k kalamaties isn't a lot. Mine has done over 160k miles and it's just about run in

I can turn mine over with a half inch ratchet but it takes some effort

Well, had another go at adjusting the tappets today, engine was notibly louder and rougher after the first adjustment. I had set them too loose on the feeler guage, now I've nipped it up a bit it is running smoothly.

First pic shows rockers 1 to 4. Standard metric nut on no.3 and does appear to be a tad lower than the rest. Runs fine tho.

Rockers 5-9 seem fine.

still using oil but the theory of valve stem oil seals sounds likely, I think it does puff slightly blue under load, especially when cold. Maybe give it some attention next year and whip the head off.

also bought some diesel additive just to see if giving it a clean out will help.

It's your No 9 rocker that's the problem ... I only have 8 rockers on mine

:doh: Oh dear... lol. I was too distracted with trying to get the pictures in the text, gave up in the end and left them as attachments. :dizzy:

I was idly musing on this recently. If you're getting blue smoke, which is noticeable when working hard, and you're not losing oil anywhere else, you must be burning quite a bit. It might be worth changing the oil to a heavier grade 20/50. This has helped reduce my "standard" drip at the bellhousing quite a lot. I'm not sure if it can have the same impact on oil lost past the rings - although I'm sure someone here will know. It could also be one or more of your valve stem seals has really gone - they do harden with age and become quite brittle. Easy to change if you're going to take the head off. (Valve spring compressor required)

I need to do my timing belt this summer and I was wondering if I should change the valve stem seals at the same time as the timing belt so I'm only stripping the front of the engine the once. I was going to ask if its an easy enough job so you've confirmed that.

I reckon over 100miles I can use 1l of oil, thats mostly at 60mph.

Well.... Took the plunge this weekend. Timing belt renewal and head refurb. Dismantling went well, no stuck or sheared bolts etc.

As I took the pushrods out the third one was stuck. Went back to it after removing the rest and gave it more of a jiggle and it popped out with a clink, as something fell into the engine. After removing the head it turned out to be a cam follower retaining pin/bolt. Must have been left in there when the military rebuilt it.

Second surprise was as i lifted the head 2 of the hot spots were sat on the block. A third has since come out so i will clean them and put them back in. No cracks in them.

I was surprised how much carbon was all over the head and cylinder. Head is all clean now but I still have to tackle the cylinders. Valves are completely caked and I'm surprised some of them were still sealing, maybe a reason for slightly poor starting.

Spent most of today removing the valves struggling with the valve guides but finally drifted them out and drifted new ones in. Also got the stem seals off which feel a little more plasticy than the new ones.

I'm hoping for a better day at it tomorrow as I'm really hoping to get it back together and running. Tomorrows jobs include;

Fit timing belt & water pump etc.
Final clean of head
Clean off valves and grind into seats
Clean off head and cylinders
Refit, oil change and hope it works!

Good job dude!

Spent all of Monday working on the engine but a problem stopped me re-building it.

One inlet valve wouldn't fit in the valve guide, I tested another inlet valve and it fitted fine and the offending valve wouldn't fit in any other position so I have assumed the valve is duff. New OEM one ordered for the weekend.

Also realised last night that I didn't read the dial torque wrench properly thinking it read in Nm so have overtightened the timing belt, luckily its only pump and cover to come off to slacken it off.

I was a little worried when doing the timing belt as the marker didn't line up with the arrow as the pic shows but when I put the new one on the closest tooth landed in the same place so I presume its all good.

Got some paint on it as-well so looking forward to getting it all together again. Turned out better than I thought it would.

I hope it runs.....

Mine shot craps about 4 months ago on a trip, it was going through that much oil, went through 8L in around 400km, took it to my mechanic to see if the head gasket shot craps or what was up, it ended up having bad pistons, rings and was leaking out of the head, and a few other places, even though the head gasket and oil pan gasket were replaced a few years ago, had an original 65K KM on the engine (XMod), when it warmed up and ran it just poured out, I just had to replace mine, I got a refurb MOD 2.5 NA in crate. It appears the previous owner might have put in to much oil and screwed things up...or it just shot craps, I don't do much off roading, and don't redline it or get it above 60mph. The new engine in crate is a big difference though.

While we are on this subject my engine is in Romania and I want to ship it back to the UK for a rebuild to have a spare, it is a 2.5NA, does anyone know any good reputable engine guys?

shot craps? :lol:

American slang for broke down...... kicked the bucket, FUBAR, crapped out etc.
Just like I had to learn offside, nearside, tilt, bonnet, mucka, ****ed, tart, etc. Just trying to give some colloquialism back.

Ot does help if you speak English, then we can all understand.

Huddy84 said:

Spent all of Monday working on the engine but a problem stopped me re-building it.

One inlet valve wouldn't fit in the valve guide, I tested another inlet valve and it fitted fine and the offending valve wouldn't fit in any other position so I have assumed the valve is duff. New OEM one ordered for the weekend.

Also realised last night that I didn't read the dial torque wrench properly thinking it read in Nm so have overtightened the timing belt, luckily its only pump and cover to come off to slacken it off.

I was a little worried when doing the timing belt as the marker didn't line up with the arrow as the pic shows but when I put the new one on the closest tooth landed in the same place so I presume its all good.

Got some paint on it as-well so looking forward to getting it all together again. Turned out better than I thought it would.

I hope it runs.....

Click to expand...

your engines is worn ,it would be worth getting injectors checked

I was thinking it may be worth having them looked at. The tips didn't look you bad but there was alot of gunk down the sides. 3 of them were missing the bottom washer, the one with the rib. My de-coke set has nnew copper ones for both top and bottom. I've given the sides a clean without touching the tips for now.

Do garages service them or do I send them direct to a specialist?

any gas passing past tip of nozzle (steel washer )tends to heat nozzle and bugger it by effecting hardening ,you need a garage or service center that has tester to reset opening pressure, poor injectors can increase oil burning ,hot spots do shrink ,the idea is they get very hot whilst head is cooled ,they should protrude from the head 2 thou so compression of head holds them secure

Oldseadog said:

Ot does help if you speak English, then we can all understand.

Click to expand...

I think I understand that

Cheers James.

I need it back up and running this weekend but I'll whip the injectors off again pretty soon to send off for a service. I read somewhere that a bit of grease can help hold the hot spots in whilst I bolt the head back on.

My aim this time was to give the engine a bit more life, review it's health and try and make it consume less oil and start easier. I should know by Saturday if this has worked. I've accepted the fact that in the next couple of years I'll probably want to have the whole engine out for a re-build, and make everything in the engine bay shiney and like new

grease or loctite etc it doesnt really matter