Oil and Fuel Additives
- Thread starter AsterixSA
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JimAttrill
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Read this, it will save you some money. Rather spend your hard-earned on premium oil which will come with all the additives you need. If you really want to clean out your V8 run it on ATF for a while. Then fill with synthetic oil.
Car Bibles : The Engine Oil Bible
Car Bibles : The Engine Oil Bible
marcrosoft
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The best article I found on the topic was:
Do Oil Additives Really Work : SFR’s Corporate Blog
Do Oil Additives Really Work : SFR’s Corporate Blog
mark10000_0
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Hi, the best product you can use on leaded engines is the MORRIS ZERO LEAD. I am currently a distributor for Morris and sell at some of th elowest prices in the uk. Ebay number 270164773274
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got any proof or are you just trying to drum up some sales here ?
mark10000_0
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Bit of both really, lol. if you visit morrislubricants.co.uk they will have all the info you need for lead replacment additives. Another big thing in Engines is oil additives. ever heard of SFR?
wafty
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where's the best place to buy ''Ovoline Super Tractor Universal engine oil '' and would it be ok in my 94 200 tdi ? ime due a oli and filter change.
ime nr folkestone in kent btw.
bernie
ime nr folkestone in kent btw.
bernie
slob
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just read that and i was thinking some of this is quite good and some of it is total bollocks
then i came across this bit
Engines pump about 10,000 litres of air for every litre of fuel consumed, and along with all that air, they suck in plenty of dirt and grit. A good air filter will stop everything bigger than a micron in diameter - everything smaller mostly just floats around harmlessly in the 0.001inch minimum thickness oil films that separate all the moving parts. Despite all of this, there will always be submicron particles that get in and there will be places in the engines oilways where they will gather. Every time you empty the oil from your sump, you're also draining this fine grit with it.
and thought why the fook am i wasting my time reading this crap.
how does dust and **** in the air get into yer oilways after passing through the air cleaner?
What a load of crap some people are prepared to swallow - and then repeat as if it's the Gospel According to Saint What's-his-name!
Your oil filter will PASS any particle smaller than about 15 microns, that's 15 thousandths of a millepede's bollocks.
SUB MICRON particles? Anyone even mentioning them in the context of an internal combustion piston engine is a nutter. Full Stop; except if it's sub-micron particles in the air, I would quite like to know by what devious route they get into the oil, and what harm they do when they get there. No doubt an expert will enlighten Slob and me both.
HOWEVER .... I would prefer to use Ovoline Tractor Universal, and drain it AND ALL THE PARTICLES IN IT about every 5,000 miles, at under £1 a litre, than use some crazy expensive so-called LONG LIFE stuff at ten times the price which leaves ALL the particles large and small wandering about the oilways and bearings quietly grinding them away for 20,000 miles or whatever.
In whose interests do the snake-oil dealers operate? Yours?
If you think that, sell the Landy and get a Trabant - you would feel more at home.
CharlesY
Your oil filter will PASS any particle smaller than about 15 microns, that's 15 thousandths of a millepede's bollocks.
SUB MICRON particles? Anyone even mentioning them in the context of an internal combustion piston engine is a nutter. Full Stop; except if it's sub-micron particles in the air, I would quite like to know by what devious route they get into the oil, and what harm they do when they get there. No doubt an expert will enlighten Slob and me both.
HOWEVER .... I would prefer to use Ovoline Tractor Universal, and drain it AND ALL THE PARTICLES IN IT about every 5,000 miles, at under £1 a litre, than use some crazy expensive so-called LONG LIFE stuff at ten times the price which leaves ALL the particles large and small wandering about the oilways and bearings quietly grinding them away for 20,000 miles or whatever.
In whose interests do the snake-oil dealers operate? Yours?
If you think that, sell the Landy and get a Trabant - you would feel more at home.
CharlesY
slob
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yer not wrong there rupert, some folk will copy and paste anything even if it is total bolocks( we have a section fer that) in the belief that it must be true cause its on the internet. they just dint realise thats its probably writen by some nobend that probably dunt even know how to open his car bonnet and gets all his info from others people that write total bolocks on the net.
sub micron? i think that refer to the size of brain you need to believe half the **** posted on the net as gospel
sub micron? i think that refer to the size of brain you need to believe half the **** posted on the net as gospel
A MICRON (not to be confused with a MERKIN) is a one-millionth part of a metre, thus a one thousandth part of a millimetre. That's quite little. In fact, if someone offered you a Jelly Baby that size you might not be ecstatic. On the other hand, it wouldn't rot your teeth much either.
In decent human measurements (inches of course) a micron is 3.93700787402e-005 of an inch .... 0.00004 of an inch, that's about one twenty-fifth of one thousandth of an inch .... no kidding .... that big huh?
Now a REALLY FINE hydraulic oil-filter will try to trap particles down to 5 microns, but usually a 15 micron filter will be fine, and car engine oil filters (depending on make and type) might typically hope to trap anything 25 microns or bigger - so anything 24 microns or less just passes right through.
Then there's the by-pass valve in the filter head. We all have one. It passes HEAPS and HUNDREDS of UNFILTERED oil at the drop of a hat, like at cold start time, and / or when the filter gets a bit clogged (you have no way to find that out) and yet hardly ever does an engine come to harm from particles in dirty oil. Why not?
Because dirty oil is still OILY oil.
What kills an engine is when the oil stops doing one or more of three things:
1. circulating round the engine
and / or
2. it stops being just right oily enough (too thick, too thin, water pollution, fuel dilution)
and / or
3. when the oil gets loaded with metal filings or sand or grinding paste, and so on.
Morals:
Keep the oil reasonably clean.
By changing inexpensive oil regularly you physically remove 95% of the harmful bits. The filter should get most of the rest.
Oil filters cost a fiver. CHANGE THEM! All the bad stuff is in there! BIN IT!
On cold starts DO NOT rev the engine - this raises cold oil pressure way past the level of opening the by-pass valve and FORCES UNFILTERED OIL through the system at the worst possible time. TD5 owners ... read your manual!
Let the oil warm up a little before driving off, and drive gently till the temp gauge comes up.
Whaddya say Slob? Is that about right?
Well, anyway, it's what I do.
CharlesY
In decent human measurements (inches of course) a micron is 3.93700787402e-005 of an inch .... 0.00004 of an inch, that's about one twenty-fifth of one thousandth of an inch .... no kidding .... that big huh?
Now a REALLY FINE hydraulic oil-filter will try to trap particles down to 5 microns, but usually a 15 micron filter will be fine, and car engine oil filters (depending on make and type) might typically hope to trap anything 25 microns or bigger - so anything 24 microns or less just passes right through.
Then there's the by-pass valve in the filter head. We all have one. It passes HEAPS and HUNDREDS of UNFILTERED oil at the drop of a hat, like at cold start time, and / or when the filter gets a bit clogged (you have no way to find that out) and yet hardly ever does an engine come to harm from particles in dirty oil. Why not?
Because dirty oil is still OILY oil.
What kills an engine is when the oil stops doing one or more of three things:
1. circulating round the engine
and / or
2. it stops being just right oily enough (too thick, too thin, water pollution, fuel dilution)
and / or
3. when the oil gets loaded with metal filings or sand or grinding paste, and so on.
Morals:
Keep the oil reasonably clean.
By changing inexpensive oil regularly you physically remove 95% of the harmful bits. The filter should get most of the rest.
Oil filters cost a fiver. CHANGE THEM! All the bad stuff is in there! BIN IT!
On cold starts DO NOT rev the engine - this raises cold oil pressure way past the level of opening the by-pass valve and FORCES UNFILTERED OIL through the system at the worst possible time. TD5 owners ... read your manual!
Let the oil warm up a little before driving off, and drive gently till the temp gauge comes up.
Whaddya say Slob? Is that about right?
Well, anyway, it's what I do.
CharlesY
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