Now this is a curiouis one...Coolant over pressure and overheat....

That is a superb schematic, when your L322 isn't driving you potty could you do one for the P38?
Getting back to your problem, that's really interesting, I've got to agree with you - first of all the top bleed hose to the expansion tank should not be under water ( coolant) otherwise it wont work as a bleed, hence the reason to keep the level in the tank set. If the transmission cooler is knackered and not allowing a flow when its thermostat tells it to this could cause a little localised boiling (?) which maybe would not manifest itself until the engine was cold due to pressurised coolant sealing this self induced air lock when hot. When cold the over pressure to blow coolant out of the ET can't come from the top ET hose as this should be venting in the air at the top of the Tank. So as you've only got one hose on the ET that is permanently submerged I'm with you this has got to be where the trapped pressurised air is which blows your coolant out of the Cold engine.
I hope the replacement sorts this out.

forthbridge said:

That is a superb schematic, when your L322 isn't driving you potty could you do one for the P38?
Getting back to your problem, that's really interesting, I've got to agree with you - first of all the top bleed hose to the expansion tank should not be under water ( coolant) otherwise it wont work as a bleed, hence the reason to keep the level in the tank set. If the transmission cooler is knackered and not allowing a flow when its thermostat tells it to this could cause a little localised boiling (?) which maybe would not manifest itself until the engine was cold due to pressurised coolant sealing this self induced air lock when hot. When cold the over pressure to blow coolant out of the ET can't come from the top ET hose as this should be venting in the air at the top of the Tank. So as you've only got one hose on the ET that is permanently submerged I'm with you this has got to be where the trapped pressurised air is which blows your coolant out of the Cold engine.
I hope the replacement sorts this out.

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As per thread.... http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/r...ing-system-schematics-270352.html#post3280655

johnsteele said:

if im right with my knowledge when liquid is cold the molecules are tight together and when heated they force apart so that's where the extra volume of hot liquid comes from?????? the part im struggling to comprehend when you fill from cold there's no pressure (extra pressure) just as an example lets say 10 litres (cold volume) the the engine heats the water lets say 10.1 litres (hot volume)then as the engine cools it will return to 10 litres (cold volume) therefore wouldn't the air have to be drawn or pressurized in somehow?. the hot volume expansion should be taken by the rubber hoses so as it cools it should return to negative?. i see on the video there's a fair bit of pressure? (when returned to cold) just a thought the small hose from the radiator to the expansion tank. if disconnected from the rad can you blow through to the expansion tank when the bleed screw is done up? would i be right in thinking the air should rise to the highest point being the expansion tank not the rad?? if there was a clear passage?? probably useless thoughts ant but just trying to help

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You are quite right in your assumptions..the system should return to close to zero pressure when cooled....what is happening is the system returns to zero pressure, but the tank remains under pressure.....as the coolant contracts as it cools it is supposed to draw the expanded coolant out of the tank back into the system.....which is not happening, and the tank remains under pressure until you open the bleed screw and the tank level drops to normal again!

The return from the tank goes past the GB oil cooler thermostat, so I have changed this last night and drove the car home last night and back to work this morning.....first thing this morning I opened the tank cap and there was minimal pressure and the level was correct.....this evening after leaving the car to cool all day, again opened the cap and no pressure and the level was once again correct....this may be coincidence, but maybe changing the GB cooler stat has indeed cured or at least helped the situation, will have to monitor for a while.

Tomorrows job is a GB fluid and filter change....and if there is time, to whip the P38's front timing cover off and replace the oil pump gears!

brilliant hope its all sorted:amen:

i see that stat was barley a year old id try and get your money back what chance have you got when new parts fail within twelve months
and that's what probably caused your radiator to blow

Saint.V8 said:

Tomorrows job is a GB fluid and filter change....and if there is time, to whip the P38's front timing cover off and replace the oil pump gears!

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you just love it Ant, these are not vehicles, they are just massive activity sets.

Mine passed its MOT today with no advisories :jaw:

holidaychicken said:

you just love it Ant, these are not vehicles, they are just massive activity sets.

Mine passed its MOT today with no advisories :jaw:

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Hard Slog Andy, Started at 10.30am and I have just finished after tidying the workshop (did it at work...lighting, warmth and can make a noise after hours!!) at 00:40 in the morning, knackered, tired, achey and I ran out of oil to top up the P38....

Fingers crossed the L322 fluid and filter change has gone well...

The sump and magnets where a tad dirty and there was some debris in the bottom of the sump, oil was looking not so great, but not burnt! (photos to be attached later!)

I'd give the TQ another year at best I think, but I will look to replace in 6 months, God willing....

Taking it off, I got fed up with the Torx bits, so I have replaced them with M6x20 bolts and M6x20 Socket Caps (for the narrower section)

Congrats on the MOT, relish it now for yer never know what the future brings!!

Hardcore mate, the workshop helps a load i bet, its the drive for me with axle stands or our makeshift ramps.

we replaced all the torx bolts after the first time we removed the sump to try and get away with an oil and filter change, but that wasnt to be, as half had corroded and lost their drive.

i think if you just get the TC replaced before anything else shows up with the transmission you should be ok. it was only my oil leak from the output shaft at the rear of the box that encouraged us to delve inside.
knowing you though i am guessing you wouldn't rest unless you have had the transmission out yourself, stripped it and rebuilt with a recon TC.

The biggest enemy is access and the weight of it.

My victory with the MOT is only a day long, i think my next measures are CV joints as a bit of preventative and possibly my transfer box chain.....

well done though mate, good effort, one day you will have your own landrover dealership and you can have this much fun everyday

ant just a thought in your failed stat would it be possible that in manufacture they put the stat in the opposite way round? therefore sending hot coolant to the expansion tank instead of it joining the cool return from the rad? great diagrams by the way ( i would have put schematic but i wasn't sure how to spell it)

johnsteele said:

ant just a thought in your failed stat would it be possible that in manufacture they put the stat in the opposite way round? therefore sending hot coolant to the expansion tank instead of it joining the cool return from the rad? great diagrams by the way ( i would have put schematic but i wasn't sure how to spell it)

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Would that not have caused it to overheat from the start when Ant replaced it last year?

didnt think it was over heating all the time? i thought it was intermittent? maybe short journey or the weather made it un noticeable? maybe the rad could cope with it for a while? i think hes had his main stat out for some time? or it could just be that the wax leaked from the stat? all guessing from me

johnsteele said:

didnt think it was over heating all the time? i thought it was intermittent? maybe short journey or the weather made it un noticeable? maybe the rad could cope with it for a while? i think hes had his main stat out for some time? or it could just be that the wax leaked from the stat? all guessing from me

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Join the club mate, another bale of straw please

Hi guys I had this same prob with my old 1995 v8 I was told it was a sliping liner that's why it keeps over heating did has much has I could but unless you rebuild the engine witch cost loads regards martin

bigflem said:

Hi guys I had this same prob with my old 1995 v8 I was told it was a sling liner that's why it keeps over heating did has much has I could but unless you rebuild the engine witch cost loads regards martin

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lets hope problem cured hes explored all the cooling system there's nothing else left!

Photos as promised....sump is full of debris.....not long to go now me thinks...

As for the Overheat issue, so far so good, hoses were a bit firm earlier, so I'll wait for it to cool and check in the morning.....not 100% convinced the change in GB stat has cured it, as I have a feeling it is just lying in wait to do it again!

theres burnt clutch material in there

jamesmartin said:

theres burnt clutch material in there

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Yep, 'fraid so....not long now me thinks!

hmm, probably more black stuff than i had mate, but you dont have any TC rumble do you ?

Can you convince work that they need a vehicle lift for something ?

holidaychicken said:

hmm, probably more black stuff than i had mate, but you dont have any TC rumble do you ?

Can you convince work that they need a vehicle lift for something ?

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I do have a rumble around the 30-40 danger zone, and then again just over 50 (when the LUC is about to come on full lock) so it is on its way....just can't do that at the moment with Crimbo round the corner, so lets hope the fluid change will last a few months and I'll look at the work in the early months of next year!

A vehicle lift would be awesome, don't think they'll go for it though!

When you dropped your box out, did you drop it with the Transfer Box attached and how easy was it to get to all the bell housing bolts??

Ant when was the last time you changed the oil and filter mate.