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Not a bobtail

Discussion in 'Members Vehicles/Projects' started by pierreblonde, Mar 28, 2020.

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  1. pierreblonde

    pierreblonde Member

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    I started to have a go today at changing the middle axles from a A Frame to a panhard arm set up. I think it will work ok. I’ve used 25mm solid bar and 10mm plate and made a bracket up. It’s not finished yet but I think that should be strong enough. I’ll make another bracket and weld it to the axle off the drop arm bracket. Then cut the other one off when I do the axles , I’m going to sleeve the chassis and bolt it on rather than weld it. There isn’t loads of room around it. But it can’t foul on anything and should be tucked up enough If anyone has any ideas otherwise. Jump in Please C7EF64D9-1BD9-4D07-B6C3-4FB28CC8D2AD.jpeg
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  2. Hicap phill

    Hicap phill Well-Known Member

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    Quick thought. Do you have to change the arms from chassis to axle?
    (Fit the same type as the fronts)
     
  3. pierreblonde

    pierreblonde Member

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    The bracket of the front did work out. So I made one. I’ve set it up off the panhard rod from the front. But I’ve ordered an adjustable one to give me a bit wiggle room
     
  4. Hicap phill

    Hicap phill Well-Known Member

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    What axle arms are you using ?
    I’m sure you can’t use normal trailing arms
     
  5. pierreblonde

    pierreblonde Member

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    Cheers for pointing that out. Thought about it and realised the axles could rotate a bit under load with the A Frame not there stop to it. Looked at some pictures of a p38 axle as they have panhard bars and their trailing arms are different. So I’m having a play about with making a bracket on the backside of the axle mounts for the trailing arms. Then I’ll make bushed bracket and take it over the existing arm bush and weld it to the trailing arm so it would end up a similar setup as front radius arms
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  6. towsey956

    towsey956 Well-Known Member

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    Can’t wait to see this done, she’s gonna be a bit of sumat special
     
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  7. pierreblonde

    pierreblonde Member

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    After a bit head scratching I think I’ve got the back axles sorted. I bored some bar out and made up a double bush on the middle axle trailing arms. I think this will stop it twisting with removing the A frame from it. Time will tell. Shortened the chassis mount for the panhard arm and and a mount on the axle. I’ve an adjustable one to go on there 21A962E6-9816-41D1-9F4E-A777FF348D15.jpeg
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    I didn’t think I’d have much to do with the back but ! I twigged the spring mounts are square to the face of the diff. Ive been putting new mounts on the axles. I rotated it up and 10 degrees as I’m taking the prop over the top. Wonded if the pinion bearing would be ok but looks like the front is about out that anyway. With rotating it I had to move the mount for the A Frame ball Joint too, so I just did that on the axle rather that move it on the chassis also put a new pan on that one
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    She always had a 2” lift on. So I’m sticking with that. However I’ve put a 4 degree bend on the trailing arms so the bush sits better.
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    chassis has had its first coat of black. Got to finish that. Axles are painted so my next jobs building them back up ,and the wheels landed today I went for 305.70.16 on steel with a 35mm offsett So I’m hoping she’ll be on her Feet soon
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  8. pierreblonde

    pierreblonde Member

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    Had a busy weekend rebuilding the axles and diffs. Biut got her on her feet. Seems ok so far C83C2CE3-4F56-465B-99E4-D2F568574CAE.jpeg
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  9. LincolnSteve

    LincolnSteve Well-Known Member

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    Just found this thread and read start to finish. Brilliant!! Your work is superb. I'll be following with interest. All the best. Steve.
     
  10. pierreblonde

    pierreblonde Member

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    Thanks very much Steve
     
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  11. pierreblonde

    pierreblonde Member

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    I’m on piping then back brakes. I think the runs look right from the callipers to the bracket on the diff. But the mud shields aren’t on yet. And I’ve done away with the anti roll bars on the back. I’ll put some dislocation cones on
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    But I couldnt seem to find extended hoses individually. So I got some SS ones that you make up yourself. But I think the original must have come from a mount on the body ? But I’ve had to come off the chassis. Will this be ok ?
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    I’m going to change the route of the brake pipe from over the crossmember to under it as the fuel pipe will end up crossing over it. I think I will also make a flexy up under the cab were the brake pipe leaves the chassis and goes onto the body to take up any movement between them. ?
     
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  12. Kev12

    Kev12 Well-Known Member

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    On my RRC the brake pipe is indeed clipped to the underside of the body, i think theres a bracket on a boot floor xmember where it joins to the flexi.
    Fantastic work so far :cool:
     
  13. pierreblonde

    pierreblonde Member

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    Great. Thanks for that
     
  14. mick 1986

    mick 1986 Well-Known Member

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    The original hard copper lines should run along the chassis rail (drivers side) to a small hole in a body mount. This is where the hard line stops and goes to the flexi. I have a photo of my rebuild, but it’s not great, hopefully you get an idea of where it should go originally. It doesn’t make a great deal of difference where you mount it, so long as you can bleed them ok.

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    As a side note, personally, I don’t bother with the mud/stone shields on discs. I think they can cause more crap to stay stuck around the brakes. Mine are removed from the front discs (drums on the back).

    Edit: found another photo showing the location from the underside.
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2020
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  15. mick 1986

    mick 1986 Well-Known Member

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