No power

OK, update
Changed the fuel rail sensor, Runs a little smoother but no different on the drop in power.
Just changed the vacuum pipe from the plastic reservoir on the nearside to the solenoid valve for turbo.
I'll see what happens tomorrow.
Running out of ideas now. I have noticed though, that when engine is cold it doesn't do it, and as soon as the engine reaches running temp and I give it some throttle it happens again.
Could it be something to do with the engine temperature sender? The gauge on the dash reads OK.
Andy.

Bugger all's worked so far so my last idea is possibly a broken wire to the boost solenoid. Does anyone know where the other end of the wires go? presumably to the ecu? anyone got any photo's identifying the correct wires, one's red and white and the others brown and white.

Well that's me done.
I'm now fresh out of ideas.
Just spent 4 hrs changing the front wiring loom, only to find the new one (second hand) didn't have a pair of wires for the inlet temp sensor. So another hour and a half stripping the wires out of the old loom and re-routing them to the ECU box and plug, only to find no bloody difference. :mad2: Still got the engine warning light coming on as soon as I try to put any power on. F@#cking sick of it, the bastard must be jinxed.
It's as if the ecu has a memory of the fault and won't clear it.
Next stop, a Land Rover specialist, no doubt with a licence to charge the earth.
****ed off.

its a shame your a couple of hours away as i have a hawkeye

matt1295 said:

its a shame your a couple of hours away as i have a hawkeye

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What's a Hawkeye Matt?

It's a land rover diagnostic machine

Ahh, OK, I hope it's better than the one Jake Wright's had, as theirs showed nothing up either. I also bought a 'Creader V' by Launch as recommended by Rover Ron, and that showed no fault codes either. Grrrrr!
Where are you anyway Matt?

im based in the not so sunny Scarborough

the hawkeye is a well recommended tool Hippo knows more about and gave me advice when i was not willing to pay a garage £50 an hour anymore

andrew, it sounds like you have tried the obvious / usual suspects,
i had a similar problem which took me ages to find the problem, turned out to be the plug connection on my synregy unit at the fuel rail sensor, in the end i cut the plug off and used connection blocks ,
sticking turbo vane would be another place to look , and also the vacuum pipes , these rub and wear through, best to take them off and examine them or just replace, other than that i suspect wiring problems broken core maybe

good luck

john t said:

andrew, it sounds like you have tried the obvious / usual suspects,
i had a similar problem which took me ages to find the problem, turned out to be the plug connection on my synregy unit at the fuel rail sensor, in the end i cut the plug off and used connection blocks ,
sticking turbo vane would be another place to look , and also the vacuum pipes , these rub and wear through, best to take them off and examine them or just replace, other than that i suspect wiring problems broken core maybe

good luck

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Hi mate.
Checked all those things, several times, and before I fit the new wiring harness I cleaned and sprayed with switch cleaner all the plugs, and checked the wires. Turbo vanes seem free enough and I ran a complete new vacuum tube to the actuator solenoid, of which I also changed.
Last resort now, I'm taking it in to Clarkson 4x4 Clarkson 4 x 4 who have an 'AUTOLOGIC DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM' which they state, "allows us to fully diagnose any fault on the complete Land rover range including - Freelander, Freelander 2, Discovery 2, 3 & 4, Range Rover Sport & the pride of the fleet, the Range Rover, Range Rover Evoque as well as the Defender & New 2007 Defender". So If they can't pin it down I'm knackered.
Andy.

I know its a totally different car but I had this same problem with my old C-Class 220 CDI. It would just go into limp-mode when you tried to give it some beans. Nothing on the ODB! Turned out that the cat-converter had 'broken down' and a ball of stuff had blocked the exhaust hence no boost pressure as the exhaust couldn't blow hard enough to generate the boost.

I had no idea that a cat could degrade.

Now I've no idea if the Freelander has a cat but its worth a look.

The cure, buy a new cat (ouch!) or ram a stick down the pipe and unblock it

WilkoUK said:

I know its a totally different car but I had this same problem with my old C-Class 220 CDI. It would just go into limp-mode when you tried to give it some beans. Nothing on the ODB! Turned out that the cat-converter had 'broken down' and a ball of stuff had blocked the exhaust hence no boost pressure as the exhaust couldn't blow hard enough to generate the boost.

I had no idea that a cat could degrade.

Now I've no idea if the Freelander has a cat but its worth a look.

The cure, buy a new cat (ouch!) or ram a stick down the pipe and unblock it

Click to expand...

Well mate, now your making me think.
Your the second chap that's mentioned a blocked cat. booboodag also had this problem and the same solution.
I'll be telling the 4x4 specialists where my car is now about this. It's sounding like a possibility, as their initial scan didn't show anything specific.
Thanks for that.
Andy.

So I told them to knock out the cat, which they said they did, and guess what?.......No bloody difference. :frusty:

Andrew McIntyre said:

So I told them to knock out the cat, which they said they did, and guess what?.......No bloody difference. :frusty:

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Naaaw Sugar!! Sorry that didn't help

Update.
So, Car has been in garage (Clarkson 4x4) for 7 days now.
Rang them up this morning for an update, and they said they were going to try some second hand injectors. Injectors causing limp mode and engine cut out?
No smoke, no misfire, Starts first time? WTF?
They seem to have gone through everything I'd already done, with the same results. I asked what happened with the changed injectors, he said "It seemed to go better" I said "did the engine warning light come on, and limp mode "well yes" he said. "So no different really then?" "No not really". Derrrrr! I still think it must be the ECU.
I'm just going to sit in a dark corner and cry now. :baby:

Replaced the manifold, repaired the wiring, changed the map sensor, done an EGR bypass, taken out and cleaned the high pressure fuel rail sensor, but still the same. I now think I have two more choices. Number one, change the fuel rail pressure sensor, (about £120.00), or change the MAF sensor, (about £71.00 from Rover Ron).

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about the only thing that's left :
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

h.p. pump Fuel Pressure Regulator

" If the regulator is faulty the engine may cut out at 3000rpm or there may be starting and general erratic performance. Petrol in the fuel, poor quality biodiesel or the use of veg oil may well shorten the life of this component. "

( from rover ron's site )

maybe a collapsed fuel line ?? or seal somewhere
i.e. given the use of bio ..

btw: according to his blog .. the maf doesn't cause the dash light to come on ..

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

This has only started after my small engine fire as my last post (see Bugger!!!!).

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did you ever find the root cause of that ??

hd3 said:

did you ever find the root cause of that ??

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No, not really. At first I thought the egr valve had stuck open, which is still a possibility, but it could also have been open to long due to an ecu fault.

At first I thought the egr valve had stuck open, which is still a possibility, but it could also have been open to long due to an ecu fault.

Click to expand...

if it were egr exhaust gasses that caused the "Bugger!!!"

( although .. i thought the gasses were supposed to be pre-cooled
( maybe the 'cooling' couldn't cope if the valve were stuck open for too long

anyhow .. if the intake manifold got hot enough via egr gasses to cause a fire
maybe some damage was done to the map sensor ? it being attached to the intake manifold
i suspect that the sensor contains a small diaphram in a tube to measure pressure
.. what if .. it were damaged from the heat .. and stuck at giving a static reading
to the ecu ..
i.e. the ecu sees just one value of boost ( if any ) and not a variable value

anyhow if that sensor is kaputski .. the ecu substitutes a reading of 900millibar
which is about 13psi .. which is the atmospheric pressure at some high moorland point
( for example ) ..
not sure how that low boost pressure reading would effect driving on the flat
( mine runs at about 17psi at about 50mph on the flat .. in 5th gear )

no mention of exhaust smoke in the o.p. ..
so presumably that is 'normal' .. i.e. no adverse symptoms like belching black out the back ..

~~~~~~~

just putting that theory forward .. given low-power occured at same time as fire ..
i've no idea if .. or if not .. a stuck or faulty map-sensor would illuminate the dashboard light .. or log in the ecu data as a particular 'fault' ..

~~~~~~~

BTW: if you think it would be any help using a scangauge to check the boost pressure whilst driving .. drop me a p.m.

Thanks for that HD3 and sorry for not replying sooner, I somehow missed your post until now.
So it's been in the garage for three weeks now, and I feel like I'm in a nightmare that I can't wake up from. All sensors have either been checked or changed, injectors likewise. I told them it has to be the ecu, (famous last words, as I've been through every "it has to be" scenario before, and nothing has worked). Anyway, the ecu has been sent off to be checked. they said the company should have received it on Friday, so hoping they let the garage know what they find on Monday or Tuesday.................I live in hope! If it isn't that, WTF is it? I suppose it might be the injector ecu? We'll see.
I just keep getting the feeling that it's jinxed, and nothing is ever going to put it right, silly eh?.

Maybe I missed it but have you changed the pressure sensor loom, that can cure a multitude of problems