no-one has the torque :(

Hi there,

Ive tried every local garage to no avail :doh:

no-one has a torque wrench that go's to 460nm or even a multiplier

You see, I'm trying to do up the crankshaft pulley bolt on my 1999 TD5 disco 2..

Im in port talbot, south wales.. Anyone have any ideas please?:5bangelsad2:

Personslly, I'd just tighten the bastid as much as you can!!

3/4 drive socket and breaker bar, then 2 big grunts once tight .

I would do that matey but i think thats what the last guy did as i had to replace the pulley and bolt and oil seal due to the bolt coming loose.. So im loathe to go down that route thanks for the fast reply though..

Going back to school boy physics now, so this could well be oversimplified, or simply wrong but....

Torque is just a measure of force at a distance away from the centre of rotation. (ie middle of the bolt!) so 460Nm is 460 newtons (kg effectively) applied 1 metre from the point of rotation.

In theory therefore, with a spring balance or other method of measuring applied force, a serious breaker bar and a length of tube to extend the breaker bar, you should be able to sort something out.
What holds the crank steady while you do this is another matter entirely.

Ie if you were able to guage roughly what force you pull to lift say 100 kg, and had a bar 5m long, then that force on that bar would be about right!

MW

We,ve always done this job,on lorries too,with a three quarter drive socket bar and four foot of scaffold tube....and two hefty blokes - one on tube..Never had one fail through LACK of torque yet.

Have you tried your local councils vehicle maintainance and test depot?Or any HGV servicing places?I know there are a few around your way.Or were,at least.They are the people most likely to have the the big kit.A lunchtime job for a drink in return for one of the boys ?

Have you got an ATS tyre place near you. They use the big torque wrenches for the truck wheels.
Mark

thanks for the replys guys.. Ok so the tyre places round here just use air tools, this is no good for me as ive no air supply :S, all the other garages ive tried and you guys say to use a big ass power bar and brute force, im going to go for this method then to get it on and drivable, then when i get a chance im going to test the torque out at a lorry place or something.. Thanks for the help guys, I have a local garage gonna pop in on the way to work tommorow to tighten it up for me..

A new problem has arisen though.. will I be able to hold it in 5th gear with all the brakes on? is it possible to use the locking pin that you do the timing with to lock the crankshaft? the one that screws in the bell housing?? Any other ideas on holding back the pulley??

go down to jcb near the old demolished police hq talk to the boys inthe work shop im sure they would help you out.

Jezath said:

thanks for the replys guys..

A new problem has arisen though.. will I be able to hold it in 5th gear with all the brakes on? is it possible to use the locking pin that you do the timing with to lock the crankshaft? the one that screws in the bell housing?? Any other ideas on holding back the pulley??

Click to expand...

DO NOT USE 5th gear or any gear other than DIRECT 4th gear. You may break a gear tooth off, and DEFINITELY do NOT use any lower gear.

The TD5 has a tool for counter-holding the pulley while tightening to a measly 455 Nm ( 336 lbf.ft)

That is nearly like having half a TON on the end of a three-foot bar!

Rave for TD5 says
Fit new crankshaft pulley bolt and tighten to
455 Nm (336 lbf.ft), using a torque multiplier.

Is there a similar tool for your engine?

I think you might split your bell-housing if you try usng the locking pin to hold it.

CharlesY

2 pieces of steel bolted together then 1 end of each bolts to the damper bolt holes and the other end rests on the chasis rail as stated in the haynes manual, i did mine this way and it was easy

@johnlad Yeah i saw that in the haynes manual but i have no means to make anything like that :S

@charlesY There is a special landrover tool you can get to counterhold the pulley but its ALOT of money for something ill only use once :S

@charlesY so 4th gear is ok to use? how about a combination of the locking pin and 4th gear and brakes?

Thanks so much for advice so far guys

Jezath said:

Hi there,

Ive tried every local garage to no avail :doh:

no-one has a torque wrench that go's to 460nm or even a multiplier

You see, I'm trying to do up the crankshaft pulley bolt on my 1999 TD5 disco 2..

Im in port talbot, south wales.. Anyone have any ideas please?:5bangelsad2:

Click to expand...

Here you go, bit bloody expensive though.
Facom 3/4" Square Drive 1000nm Dynapact Wrench : Tooled-Up.com

Jezath said:

@johnlad Yeah i saw that in the haynes manual but i have no means to make anything like that :S

@charlesY There is a special landrover tool you can get to counterhold the pulley but its ALOT of money for something ill only use once :S

@charlesY so 4th gear is ok to use? how about a combination of the locking pin and 4th gear and brakes?

Thanks so much for advice so far guys

Click to expand...

all you need is a drill, 10mm bit, 1 bolt, 2 pieces steel approx 500mm and 350mm

For removing the 490 Nm nut on the propshaft Haynes says to stick it in low ratio and put it in 1st gear. Is this wrong then?

Are you going to be able to apply 460nm with a torque wrench?

If so, surely you can do it with a big bar too, maybe more?

We have a 3/4 drive set with the bar extended to about 6 feet, manages all the hub nuts and crank pulleys.

I know you want to do it right, but maybe it will be ok as a last option.

WHAT ABOUT book it into land rover, hour's labour might be cheaper than tooling up anyway???

Regardless of the tyre place using air tool they are required to torque the truck nuts up, and cars for that matter. i know i worked for them for 10 years,
Mark

we've got a big ol torque wrench at work but your miles away, goes up to around 1200 nm

however i have never actually torqued a crank pulley bolt up, and i've had a hell of a lot of crank pulley's off. VW LT35 5 cyl engines have a mighty torque setting aswell.
i have always used an impact gun (ingersoll rand) and not once had a problem. without the proer locking tool you will struggle with out an impact gun. (i know you cannot garentee the actual torque) there is also a tool which you hit with as hammer at like 90 degrees i forget the name though.
hope this has been of some use to you.

thanks very much guys, got some guys with a big ass breaker bar to come help me tighten it in the mornin, gonna try the 4th gear brakes on option. I mean that should give some hefty torque and you guys have alot more exp than me... So ill do this and let you know how it went tommorow afternoon.. After though.. Im gonna pop down jcb and see what they have to offer in the way of torque, just so i know how much more to tighten it

Fingers crossed i dont break a gear tooth hey..

Atm i have no steel no drill and no drill bits :S

I know im an amatuer a complete one.. hence no tools to speak of except my 8 pound draper socket set and a pair of viscous fan removal wrenchs. Oh! also 2 screwdrivers, and a small claw hammer

I do have the haynes manual and also the rave cd, thats how i got this far lol :lol:

Thanks again very much for your advice and help I SO wish i had the bits to make that tool your going on about johnlad...