Freelander 1 no heater and tempreature guage cold all the time

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00Andreas00

New Member
Posts
3
Location
Malta
Hi there,
Ive been trying to aolve this problem for a month now , i recently bought a 1999 freelander 1 2.0 not the bmw one, when i bought it it had no heater and the guage wasn't working , so ive changed the heater matrix and flushed the system and still no heat no temp guage, then i changed thermostat and temp sensor and still remains the same no heater and no temp sensor , i removed the egr to be sure no coolant leaks but again no heater no sensor, what can it be when i removed the lower part of the heater matrix no collant is being pushed but from the upper one that is the outlet of the heater matrix coolant is coming its suppose to be the opposite, please any one has ideas? Could it be the collant pump impeller is opposite direction, could it be the guage its self ?
 
My L series has a leaking heater matrix. When I fill the expansion bottle (to the max line) the heater works reasonably well.

Once the coolant level drops to the bottle being empty (which doesn't take long!), the heater basically stops. My temperature gauge though continues to work. Thankfully for me, once the heater stops, the leak reduces.

I don't know enough about the coolant system though to say why you do not have flow in the system.

If you had a diagnostic code reader, it would show what the temp sensor is showing - you need Freelander specific (or some Rover) code reader though, or take a visit to a Land Rover workshop.

As a matter of interest, did you have to take the dash out to replace the heater matrix?
 
One thing that springs to mind is that some Rover engines have 2 temp sensors - 1 for the gauge and another for the ECU - not sure if this is so with the L Series and whether you may have changed the wrong one.
 
So as sensor the l series has 1 sensore located on the collant outlet elbow from the eninge, the sensor has 2 wires that goes to the ecu and the ecu will send a meassage to the guage, i ordered an obd 2 check error codes, as the heater matrix replacement, yes all the dasboard need to be removed, starting with the streering, airbags, heater controller, center fascia,the clock and last the dash board that has 12 bolts, after you need to remove the vents and the blowwer its self to replace the heater matrix :)
 
00Andreas00 said:
So as sensor the l series has 1 sensore located on the collant outlet elbow from the eninge, the sensor has 2 wires that goes to the ecu and the ecu will send a meassage to the guage, i ordered an obd 2 check error codes, as the heater matrix replacement, yes all the dasboard need to be removed, starting with the streering, airbags, heater controller, center fascia,the clock and last the dash board that has 12 bolts, after you need to remove the vents and the blowwer its self to replace the heater matrix :)
Click to expand...
This is why I still have a leaking heater matrix :D

My cigarette lighter was broken and I needed to replace it to power a dash cam. So I removed the one from my parts car. This involved removing the center parts of the console/dash. There were a silly number of parts that needed to be removed just to get to the back of the cigarette lighter - but the worst bit was removing the stereo frame/cage. It just would not come out and I ended up just crunching it up (and drawing blood). I wasn't prepared to do this on my road car, so just pulled the paneling back by the passenger footwell, pulled the wires off the back of the socket, plugged them into the replacement and left it lying on the 'transmission tunnel' (wrapped in bubble wrap).

I have wondered whether I could cut the bottom off the heater box to access/replace the matrix, then glue it back on.
 
GrumpyGel said:
This is why I still have a leaking heater matrix :D

My cigarette lighter was broken and I needed to replace it to power a dash cam. So I removed the one from my parts car. This involved removing the center parts of the console/dash. There were a silly number of parts that needed to be removed just to get to the back of the cigarette lighter - but the worst bit was removing the stereo frame/cage. It just would not come out and I ended up just crunching it up (and drawing blood). I wasn't prepared to do this on my road car, so just pulled the paneling back by the passenger footwell, pulled the wires off the back of the socket, plugged them into the replacement and left it lying on the 'transmission tunnel' (wrapped in bubble wrap).

I have wondered whether I could cut the bottom off the heater box to access/replace the matrix, then glue it back on.
Click to expand...
GrumpyGel said:
This is why I still have a leaking heater matrix :D

My cigarette lighter was broken and I needed to replace it to power a dash cam. So I removed the one from my parts car. This involved removing the center parts of the console/dash. There were a silly number of parts that needed to be removed just to get to the back of the cigarette lighter - but the worst bit was removing the stereo frame/cage. It just would not come out and I ended up just crunching it up (and drawing blood). I wasn't prepared to do this on my road car, so just pulled the paneling back by the passenger footwell, pulled the wires off the back of the socket, plugged them into the replacement and left it lying on the 'transmission tunnel' (wrapped in bubble wrap).

I have wondered whether I could cut the bottom off the heater box to access/replace the matrix, then glue it back on.
Click to expand...
So basically you can but you nees to modify the heatermatrix, by cutting the 2 solid pipes and connect 2 flexiable hoses, then you can have excess to the matrix no need to remove all dashboard and blower, i think you need to remove only the AC Evaporator
 
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