no clutch??? help

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discojamz

Active Member
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833
Location
Bristol
I have just finished fitting my "new" gearbox and the transfer box back into my 200tdi only to find that once the clutch slave cylinder is re-attached, the clutch wont dis-engage.

I've bled the hydraulic system with one of the pressure bleeding things so i'm pretty sure thats not the problem.

When depressing the pedal, there is minimal resistance until about 3/4 of the way down where there is quite a bit of resistance, but not enough to work the clutch.

Any thought of what may be wrong before i take the gearbox back out again to have a look??

James
 
bleed it more!!!! i changed the cylinders on mine last year and fook me did they take a while, i was actually just about to give up when i started to feel a bit of resistance, must have been doing it for about an hour manually.
 
Never done one yet, but based on experience, I would take the slave cylinder off again and check how far the fork is away from the slave cylinder push rod, and this will give you some idea how much push you have. whilst it's off check by pressing the clutch pedal slightly, (somebody) and you holding the push rod into the slave to determine if you are getting push immediatly illiminating an air problem.

I guess if the fork is miles away from the push rod then you are only getting miimum travel, indicating something wrong inside, that is if the slave proves ok of course.

I know that the forks can break, is there any way to get a look at what is happening inside.

Did you fit a new clutch and release bearing, and did you compare them with the original before fitting. Sometimes if you fit the centre plate the wrong way around it wont release. Is the fork adjustable. I don't have a manual to hand to check how it works so I can only give ideas to try.

Perhaps one off the rocket guys will reply, but all the best and I hope I gave you some direction to go in.
 
Never done one yet, but based on experience, I would take the slave cylinder off again and check how far the fork is away from the slave cylinder push rod, and this will give you some idea how much push you have. whilst it's off check by pressing the clutch pedal slightly, (somebody) and you holding the push rod into the slave to determine if you are getting push immediatly illiminating an air problem.

I guess if the fork is miles away from the push rod then you are only getting miimum travel, indicating something wrong inside, that is if the slave proves ok of course.

I know that the forks can break, is there any way to get a look at what is happening inside.

Did you fit a new clutch and release bearing, and did you compare them with the original before fitting. Sometimes if you fit the centre plate the wrong way around it wont release. Is the fork adjustable. I don't have a manual to hand to check how it works so I can only give ideas to try.

Perhaps one off the rocket guys will reply, but all the best and I hope I gave you some direction to go in.

might add some systems need bleeding in reverse, take master cylinder cap off and pressure bleed it from the slave up to the master, you can use a washer pump and some of the hose to do it, some trucks are impossible to bleed normally, so thats what we do.
 
gravity bleed your clutch :d did mine in about five mines the others day shame the 'bleeding' bleed screw is half way down the clyinder :S so half the clyinder will be full of air :(
 
I know that the forks can break, is there any way to get a look at what is happening inside.

Did you fit a new clutch and release bearing, and did you compare them with the original before fitting. Sometimes if you fit the centre plate the wrong way around it wont release. Is the fork adjustable. I don't have a manual to hand to check how it works so I can only give ideas to try.

Perhaps one off the rocket guys will reply, but all the best and I hope I gave you some direction to go in.

yeah i've just had look inside as ive only just re-fitted the gearbox. The fork was fairly new with no visible wear or anything.

could it be a problem with the release bearing not being on the shaft properly, although i would have thought that it would just align itself naturally.
 
gravity bleed your clutch :d did mine in about five mines the others day shame the 'bleeding' bleed screw is half way down the clyinder :S so half the clyinder will be full of air :(

What do you mean when you say gravity bleed it? Is it just opening the bleed screw and leaving it for a while, letting fluid work its way down??
 
What do you mean when you say gravity bleed it? Is it just opening the bleed screw and leaving it for a while, letting fluid work its way down??

Even gravity feeding does not always work, to move air along a pipe it needs to be pushed quite hard and fast. Try leaving the bleed nipple shut and the pressing the pedal quickly straight to the floor and keeping it there, now whilst the pedal is still held down now release the bleed nipple a little and the air should start to come out.

Now close the nipple and release the pedal and then pause for the fluid to refill the chamber in the master cylinder and then repeat. Incidently if you have a damper fitted (round disc with pipe in/out) in the fluid line this is notorious for trapping air.

Let us all know how you get on as I am replacing my clutch (200 tdi) within the next two weeks.

regards

Dave
 
ok well i'll give that a shot tomorrow but not sure whether it will have much effect as the pressure bleeder pumped a hell of a lot of fluid throught the system and it seemed to be coming out air free.

are there any other possible causes as the fork is definately good and am 99.99% sure the push rod is attached to it as i cabled tied it to the fork aswell as using the clip
 
ok well its definately not a problem with air in the system as i've bled it a hundred times and then clamped up the end of the slave and the pedal went solid.

Its definately not the push rod coming un-attached

any other possibles you guys can think of??
 
the problem that occurs with the clutch fork is not breakage, the ball that acts as the leverage point pushes through the fork and then it will not push on the release bearing, this sounds to be the problem with yours.
 
the problem that occurs with the clutch fork is not breakage, the ball that acts as the leverage point pushes through the fork and then it will not push on the release bearing, this sounds to be the problem with yours.

maybe but i find that very hard to believe as i put the gearbox into the car 2 days ago and the fork was near new and had no sign of weakness or wear and it hasnt even been used yet as when put in, it doesnt work
 
maybe but i find that very hard to believe as i put the gearbox into the car 2 days ago and the fork was near new and had no sign of weakness or wear and it hasnt even been used yet as when put in, it doesnt work
did it have a plate welded across the "ball" area?
 
no it didnt. it looks like this
 

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