NNN throttle settings

I’ve put a NNN ecu to my 10p pre facelift as the original ecu got water damage I know I have to get it mapped eventually but for now I just want to get it to rev what settings do I need to change to get the engine to rev??

So did you just plug in the NNN ECU and the engine is running only at idle or what's going on?

Also is it a D2 or Defender?

sierrafery said:

So did you just plug in the NNN ECU and the engine is running only at idle or what's going on?

Also is it a D2 or Defender?

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Into a D2 managed to get it revving but engine is stuttering on rev I’ve got a leak on the pressure regulator could that be drawing air in you think ?

A leaking FPR surely doesnt help but i think that if you want to drive the 10P engine with a NNN ECU which was not remapped for Eu2 it's a very bad ideea cos it will never run well, it will be overfuelled and you'll kill the injectors which are built for lower pressure hence the EU3 fuel map doesnt accept the Eu2 injector codes, uncoded injectors can cause trouble at higher revs, the ECU misses the pedal's 3'rd track input even if it lets you accelerate, the AAT input from the airbox sensor is also missing and so on... too many problems to know which is causing trouble, it's simply not OK so i can't help untill you dont have a properly working ECU as the management issue to be ruled out

It’s really weird the engine would never start no matter what I did until I plugged in the NNN and it started on one turn of the key. Went back to the original MSB and it ran but only on 4 cylinders. Back to the NNN and it ran back on 5. Then back to the MSB again and it runs on all 5 on that too now.

Hope that makes sense lol

I really can’t wrap my head around it

It runs on all 5 on both the msb and nnn but stutters on rev on both.

You said that the MSB got water damage so it's possible that meanwhile it dried out but something else is wrong too on that engine... how did it get water damage? if water reached the ECU it could have ruined other things too, you need known good ECU with the proper fuel map as that part to be ruled out then you can start troubleshooting by watching live inputs or maybe some fault codes will be logged too... and replace that leaking FPR first

sierrafery said:

You said that the MSB got water damage so it's possible that meanwhile it dried out but something else is wrong too on that engine... how did it get water damage? if water reached the ECU it could have ruined other things too, you need known good ECU with the proper fuel map as that part to be ruled out then you can start troubleshooting by watching live inputs or maybe some fault codes will be logged too... and replace that leaking FPR first

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The water damage was over year ago it’s been sitting while trayback it so I doubt it dried out all of a sudden.

The complete story of this engine is very long and I don’t think I can ever explain everything but it will try sorry for the long read.

Went through some deep water about year and a half ago has been hard to start ever since but always start eventually the ecu got a little wet and the fuel tank got muddy water in it and I did drive it home. I had replaced almost everything related to fuel delivery ( pump , filter housing, ect ect) too to get all the bad fuel out. but still hard to start so I assumed it was either injectors or the ecu. Tried another fully working MSB on the engine and still hard to start. Assuming it was the injectors I also replaced them. Being an idiot I didn’t drain the fuel out the head properly and hydro locked the engine with diesel and got over 10 L of diesel into the oil. After this it would not start at all. At this point assumed the engine was ****ed but for some reason decided to try a NNN ecu I had. And after about 5 seconds of cranking it started up and has started fine ever since. On either ecu

The only thing I can think is the higher pressure from the euro 3 map did something. Maybe ?????

Now I’m just trying to diagnose why it stutters when I when I rev not too it’s
Dissimilar to how a popcorn limiter sounds but it will clear up after about 5 seconds it doesn’t no matter what ecu I use.


I don’t expect anyone to be able to help with this because there is just far to much going on that’s why the original post was just about how code the ECU i haven’t even mentioned everything and I definitely should have cut my losses with the engine a long time ago but thought I would share.
However any input is much appreciated.

I’m about 90% sure the hydro lock and the diesel in the oil hasn’t done any damage but it definitely could have

I'd say that if the FPR is leaking replace that first cos it can cause trouble then if you have nanocom record an "inputs fuelling" file as to catch the symptom maybe something is visible on that

sierrafery said:

I'd say that if the FPR is leaking replace that first cos it can cause trouble then if you have nanocom record an "inputs fuelling" file as to catch the symptom maybe something is visible on that

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I’ve bought one of them ****ty rebuild kits going to to it this weekend. Would you recommend I just replacing the whole unit ?

You can try to use that kit and see how it works if there was no gasket in the kit you need a new one cos they are not reusable

sierrafery said:

You can try to use that kit and see how it works if there was no gasket in the kit you need a new one cos they are not reusable

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Ok I will start with that. See if that helps

sierrafery said:

You can try to use that kit and see how it works if there was no gasket in the kit you need a new one cos they are not reusable

Click to expand...

lots of dirt inside the regulator

Don't forget to clean the strainer which is in the head beneath the FPR under the small o-ring.... usually that gunk is a sign of leaking injector copper washers

It’s definitely still not running 100% but the FPR seems to have cured the stuttering I guess this engine lives another day