New toy to play with

Guys

Just bought another 4.6L this sporting Thor electronic ignigion. Drove her home this afternoon from Dunstable and she performed pretty well although not as responsive as I had hoped. Got 1 problem and 3 queries that I hope you can help with.

The Problem - Neither of the front doors will open or lock with the remote. The rears are OK. I haven't done any research into this yet but if anyone has quick solution...

Query 1 - I thought the lack of response might me old plugs so pulled one out when I got home. She is fitted with NGK PFR6N-11 spark plugs. Anyone got any experience of these?

Query 2 - She is running on 16" rims. My other Rangie runs 18" rims and looks much better for it. Is there any problem with putting the 18's on the new car? Now sure how speed is affected etc.

Query 3 - Anybody got any tricks to deep clean cream leather. I just want to try and get the 11 years of grime out of the creases.

Many thanks as always.

John

see p38 andys post today 1440.god help us all!!!!!!!

leather wipes bring it up nice without leaching colour

land rover hurricane alloys are 18 inch and standard land rover, larger sizes than standard fitment 18 inch the handling is compromised.

Door Locks - check F9 & F22 as these feed the door outstations. Otherwise probably the locks themselves.
Lack of response - Do a compression test which should tell you the basic state of the engine. Any other symptoms?
Wheels - no problem with fitting larger wheels as the tyres will be lower profile to compensate.
Leather - Any good quality leather cleaner should do the job. I seem to think Gliptone came highly recommended from someone on here - maybe Mat with the L322.

but the question is why both locks at the same time?is the r/f reciever powering them up all the time and burning them out?is the becm powering them with the same result.prologic says its my outstations,both changed,still the same.becm sent away to be rechecked,door locks changed(again).what else can be wrong?HELP before theyve changed everything but the wheels.

tomcat59alan said:

but the question is why both locks at the same time?is the r/f reciever powering them up all the time and burning them out?is the becm powering them with the same result.prologic says its my outstations,both changed,still the same.becm sent away to be rechecked,door locks changed(again).what else can be wrong?HELP before theyve changed everything but the wheels.

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The RF receiver can cause that.

tomcat59alan said:

but the question is why both locks at the same time?is the r/f reciever powering them up all the time and burning them out?is the becm powering them with the same result.prologic says its my outstations,both changed,still the same.becm sent away to be rechecked,door locks changed(again).what else can be wrong?HELP before theyve changed everything but the wheels.

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Just so that we are all on the same page and not discussing different issues I have tried to describe my symptoms below. Please note that I do not know if both doors stopped working at the same time. The guy who I bought the car from said it was like this when he bought it some months back.

Starting from all doors and tailgate open:-
A single click on the remote closes only the rear doors. Both fronts and the tail gate remain open. A double click has the same effect.
Superlocking and Lazylocking using the remote is not possible.

Key in drivers door has no effect whatsoever.

From inside with drivers door closed the drivers side sill lock has no effect. With the drivers door open the drivers side sill lock will sucessfully open and close all doors except the passenger door. Not sure having the door open would make a difference. Key in lock does not work whether door is open or closed.

Exact same results for passenger door when using the sill lock - Does nothing when closed but works fine when open.

I will investigate more tomorrow....

JT

I think it has to be the locks themselves. The fact that it's doing something when the door's open would say the outstation / fuses and BECM are all OK. Why it's doing it with the door open I don't know though. I think you're going to have to change the drivers lock assembly as a priority. If your Fob goes tits up, you ain't going to be able to use the EKA code.

ive changed both front locks,stripped down units i took off,both locking motors u/s,superlock motors working.becm sent away to be checked(was worked on 5 months ago).if thats ok,there is only the r/f reciever to go wrong isnt there or can you think of anything else?regards alan

No, not really. I think you've just about done everything.

gliptone is the BEST leather cleaner / conditioner i have ever used and cant recommended it highly enough, it smells great and cleaned the sand leather in my L322 to brand new condition my interior looks like it has never been used, the seats have no creases and the armrests are in mint condition. Try it, you will not be disappointed if you use it correctly.

Matt

mattstevenson2005 said:

gliptone is the BEST leather cleaner / conditioner i have ever used and cant recommended it highly enough, it smells great and cleaned the sand leather in my L322 to brand new condition my interior looks like it has never been used, the seats have no creases and the armrests are in mint condition. Try it, you will not be disappointed if you use it correctly.

Matt

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Thanks Matt, which one of the Glipstone products did you use?

I'd be checking the wiring to the doors
not sure about the P38 but some cars use the door hinges as the earth circuit which caused the symptoms you have

JT you'l find that the C/L motors are foobah'd, and caused by RF unit; had exact same with mine!!

Ridesafe said:

JT you'l find that the C/L motors are foobah'd, and caused by RF unit; had exact same with mine!!

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Thats is my suspicion as well. I now have the lock out of the car and on my work bench. I have stripped the lock down to expose the two motors. Before I start throwing test voltages at them it would be good to know what the voltage feed to the lock is (5v or 12V). Does anyone know the answer?
There are some markings on the larger motor but a search in google doesn't yield any results.

It looks like a regular COTS motor so maybe if this one is AFU getting a replacement might be straighforward.

try 5V and if that dont do out, try 12V?

The Mad Hat Man said:

try 5V and if that dont do out, try 12V?

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OK, confirmation that the motor is FUBAR. Neither 5v or 12v will kick the thing into life. I am going to see if the one of my '97 is the same kind.

Just noticed another reason why my key doesn't work the lock is because the piece of metal at the end of the barrel which holds the connecting rod is missing - as in broken off. Now I need a new handle as well but can't for the life of me work out how it is removed from the car. There is the one obvious screw but after that I am at a loss.
Anyone tried this before?

jt_armstrong said:

Just noticed another reason why my key doesn't work the lock is because the piece of metal at the end of the barrel which holds the connecting rod is missing - as in broken off. Now I need a new handle as well but can't for the life of me work out how it is removed from the car. There is the one obvious screw but after that I am at a loss.
Anyone tried this before?

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Look at www.rangerovers.net good info on removing handles there

Datatek said:

Look at www.rangerovers.net good info on removing handles there

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Thanks Keith, I found it on Rave in the end. I was pulling insted of pushing...Anyway handle and actuator from my '97 now installed on the '99. Works a treat and all doors (except the passenger front which I have yet to start) now work as expected from the fob. My only problem is that the new barrel requires the key from the '97 but I am not too woried about that for now.