New owner already with problems...

Hii to all,

Last time that was in here as january as i was looking for my first land rover.
Due to covid it was put on hold several months, until 2 months ago i find a nice one, a td4 from november 2000 with 180000 km.
There was some problems cleary showing, sunroof didnt open and was rusted, previous owner had made a dent in a tree near the boot that lets in water to the boot hole, front doors locks were manual, and need oils mantunence all around.
Did the basics tests and every thing looked normal so i bought it.
After 3 or 4 i removed the prop shaft because i couldnt do imediatly the oils and didnt want to destroy the transfer box or rear diff.
Last week finaly managed to have time to do the well diserved mantenence.
Gearbox oil was black and look original, transfer box the oil was clear but there was 2cm of metal pulp on the sump plug, rear diff is next as i got a pump to remove the oil with a tube.
This sunday refit the prop shaft and another problem apeared that wasnt there before remove it. At around 40 50 km/h i get a vibration and a sound that looks like wind, around 70 the vibration softens to almost nothing and the sound goes down also but never disapears completely.
When i fit the shaft did the rear wheel test up and by hand making a little wheight it moved slowly and could confirm that the shaft moved from the rear axle to the vcu.
10 min ago when parking the car i discovered that in reverse at full lock the car brakes inself (if not totally full lock it rools more freely). Went under to check the vcu and was cold to the touch.
Can any one give any theorys to whats damaged now?

Sorry for the long text

Thanks

Glad you found a Freelander. The same advice applies as back in December....

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-1-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/

1) Check the tyres.
2) Check the VCU - if you can push by hand as you describe it may be OK, but you need an actual that can be checked - eg 1 wheel up test with 1.2m bar and 5kg weight giving a comparable time.

There is a driving test too that may give you an indication of the VCUs 'stiffness'. Find a flat open are where you can slowly drive in circles or figure 8s. In 1st, and or reverse, with the engine on idle you should be able to drive forwards / backwards in circles on full steering lock, left or right - it doesn't matter. You may feel a slight resistance. If the car feels like the handbrake is on or it stalls, or you have to give it a bit of throttle to get it to do these manoeuvres then that's an indication that your VCU has stiffened. Tyres stuffing or jumping about while doing this shows there are real problems. Also a useful telltale is odd or uneven tyre wear patterns.

There are several very good videos on youtube about doing the one wheel up test [OWUT] - a time of about 30 seconds or less is good, over a minute not good and over a minute and a half is bad. Many would recommend removing the prop shaft assembly until you are in a position to replace the VCU...

For the FL1 it's critical that the 4 tyres are identical, the same size, brand and inflation. Newer tyres, ie a pair, should be fitted to the rear axel. Mismatched tyres will eventually be 'fatal' to your IRD.

I hope the above helps. I think these are great wee cars.

A little update, today removed the presure monitor caps on the tyres and check the pressure, the vibration went down a little.
Can it be that even as the 4 tyres are equal the front ones apeared a little more worn out and could be a part of the problem?
This weekend will try to make the wheel up test with the 1.2m bar and 5kg weight
Still the jet turbine sound remains ate 30 40 km/h and aparent goes down as i get more speed
Thanks