New Landy - Help with list of things to check/replace this weekend!

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richardjeaton

richardjeaton

New Member
Posts
198
Location
Wetherby, Leeds, West Yorkshire
Hi All

I just got my 1989 90 2.5TD a couple of days ago (More details here http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f20/hello-wetherby-yorkshire-69741.html) and am aiming to give it a full checkup/service on Saturday/Sunday. The previous owner had lost all previous manuals/service history/receipts :doh: (how does this happen?) but the car was structurally sound (chassis fantastic, bulkhead v good and just starting to go slightly rusty at bottom corners) and engine seems v good so I went for it anyway. Of course this now means that I want to make sure everything is right by giving it a full service/going over myself. :boink:

This is my list of essentials that I want to go over (I also have another non essential list to keep me busy later on - lol!).

1. Change engine oil (what oil should I use?)
2. Change glow plugs (is this essential as starting is fine now I've discovered the half ignition turn to power the glow plugs?)
3. Change coolant (any particular type of antifreeze?)
4. Change brake fluid and bleed brakes (again, what DOT brake fluid?)
5. Check all brakes
6. Check handbrake drum/shoes
7. Replace oil filter
8. Replace fuel filter
9. Replace air filter
10. Check/grease UV joints and swivels (best grease for this?)
11. Change diff oil (sorry to ask again, but which type of oil?)

Is there anything else I should be doing?

Any pointers to "how to" articles of all/any of the above would be useful too. I'm ok with basic car mechanics but have never worked on a Landy before.

Also, bearing in mind the lack of history I think it is probably worth doing the cambelt too (though not this weekend!). Is this a DIY job or should I get my local trusted mechanic to do it and not risk fubar'ing a working engine?

Cheers

Richard
 
hahahaha there's probably about 1 in a 1000. old landies what have still got any form of service history.

The rest is fairly simple if you can find ya way round a socket set and an engine bay. If it's starting ok I wouldn't touch the glowplugs.
 
The list you have is probably spot on.

Its all quite simple to do. Try and download the service manuals available online. Failing that yoiu could get the Haynes book of lies.

Oil- Any decent Turbo Diesel oil will do make sure you change it very regularly because the old Td's dont like old oil much.

Axles - EP80 or EP90,

Transfer Box - EP80 or EP90,

Main Gearbox - ATF Dextron II or III,

Brake fluid would reccommend DOT4 no need for DOT 5 its not a high performance race car that will boil the brakes,

With your hand brake I would be i take it all apart clean the plunger and rollers re assemble it and adjust it.

Its an easy job but, it needs to go back exactly right otherwise the travel you get will be minimal. Also adjusting it follow the correct procedure:

Adjust the drum with a 12mm/13mm spanner tight so th ehand brake is locked on solid tap around the drum with a soft mallet,

Un adjust it and lock it on again tapping it all around,

Then back it off quater of a turn at a time untill it no longer binds or until you cannot hear it rubbing the shoes.

Turn it another quater or half a turn to make sure there is a definate space between the shoes and drum.

Right now the Drum is adjusted you need to adjust your h/b cable to it adjust the hand brake so that when it is fully down off there is no pressure on the plunger. should have between 2 and 4 clicks before the hand brake appies fully. Jai
 
richardjeaton said:
Hi All

I just got my 1989 90 2.5TD a couple of days ago (More details here http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f20/hello-wetherby-yorkshire-69741.html) and am aiming to give it a full checkup/service on Saturday/Sunday. The previous owner had lost all previous manuals/service history/receipts :doh: (how does this happen?) but the car was structurally sound (chassis fantastic, bulkhead v good and just starting to go slightly rusty at bottom corners) and engine seems v good so I went for it anyway. Of course this now means that I want to make sure everything is right by giving it a full service/going over myself. :boink:

This is my list of essentials that I want to go over (I also have another non essential list to keep me busy later on - lol!).

1. Change engine oil (what oil should I use?)

Use the cheapest and more cheerful halfords own oil, and change it often. DONT do an engine flush, ever. It will do more harm than good.

2. Change glow plugs (is this essential as starting is fine now I've discovered the half ignition turn to power the glow plugs?)

If it starts fine don't bother just yet.

3. Change coolant (any particular type of antifreeze?)

50/50 mix of average normal antifreeze. Its well worth flushing the rad and heater matrix with the garden hose before you refill though, makes a big difference.

4. Change brake fluid and bleed brakes (again, what DOT brake fluid?)

DOT4. Again, this is well worth doing.

5. Check all brakes
6. Check handbrake drum/shoes

If it works, save this for a sunny day. they dn't tend to wear, only stick. If it aint sticking, wait until its warm for this one.

7. Replace oil filter

Yup

8. Replace fuel filter

Don't forget to bleed the system after - fit the fitler, loosen the top union on the filter housing and pump the hand prime lever on the side of the engine, on the 'lift pump' until air free fuel comes out the top of the filter. Then open the bleed screw on the injecion pump (the big pump) and do the same.

9. Replace air filter

Good quality one. This applies to all filters.

10. Check/grease UV joints and swivels (best grease for this?)

Bog standard grease from a grease gun. be careful you don't do it too hard as you can push the seals out on the UJ's. Grease the UJs on the prop shaft, the sliding joints on the prop shaft and the steering ball joints, if they have nipples.
The swivels (chrome balls, front axle) need special grease, and its probably already been done - this is a do it once for life job.

11. Change diff oil (sorry to ask again, but which type of oil?)

EP90, hypoid.

Is there anything else I should be doing?

Change both gearbox oils. EP90 hypoid for the transfer box, and Auto Transmission fluid to standard M2C33 for the main gearbox

Oh, and EP90 in the steering box, if its got manual steering. If not, then jus keep the PAS reservoir topped up.

Any pointers to "how to" articles of all/any of the above would be useful too. I'm ok with basic car mechanics but have never worked on a Landy before.

Also, bearing in mind the lack of history I think it is probably worth doing the cambelt too (though not this weekend!). Is this a DIY job or should I get my local trusted mechanic to do it and not risk fubar'ing a working engine?

Cambelt is changable in a couple of hours, easy. When you buy one, you need a water pump gasket too.

Cheers

Richard
Click to expand...


Hope this helps!

A word of warning.

Don't bother with Britpart (****part) spares, they are absolute crap. Spend a few quid more, it WILL be worth it.

Have fun!

And feel free to ask on here if you get stuck!
 
Thanks for all the info. I bought all the stuff today and downloaded the workshop manual earlier. It all looks pretty easy though doesn't it always in manuals as they don't show rusted/sheared bolts etc - lol!!!

I'll let you know how I get on and amazingly I'm actually looking forward to doing all this tomorrow. :)

Cheers

Richard
 
Ok, so I got most of it done with no real problems - still a few bits left to do though as always :rolleyes:

The only problem I'm now having is starting it after changing the fuel filter. I loosened the top and pumped the primer until fuel came out and then tightened that back up. I opened what I "think" is the bleed screw on the injector (the left hand pipe on top?) and used the primer until fuel came out. I then tried cranking it and after quite a long time it fired up for about a second before dying straight away and now my battery is flat! :(

Can somebody confirm that I am using the right bleed screw or point out where I am going wrong???

Cheers

Richard
 
That's the wrong way to bleed the system! On top of the pump there should be a little nipple like nut sticking up. You wan to be slightly undoing the nut / nipple just below and to the right of number 10 on my picture (your pump will look slightly different):

pump.jpg


Also make sure that you don't over tighten it because it will just strip the aluminium thread. These engines are also relatively difficult to get started after anything on the fuel side of things has been touched, but it will go eventually!

I'm only 15 mins away so give me a buzz if you need any help with anything!

-Pos
 
once you have bled the pump you will need to remove the air from the high pressure lines that has been put there by your cranking, more than likely.

Jus loosen all 4 injector pipes where they meet the injector, and get someone to crank the engine. When one stops foaming, tighten up that pipe. Keep going til it fires and all pipes are tight.

DONT GET DIESEL UNDER YOUR SKIN, the high pressure system will do this easily. Keep hands away, use a spanner.

:)
 
pos said:
That's the wrong way to bleed the system! On top of the pump there should be a little nipple like nut sticking up. You wan to be slightly undoing the nut / nipple just below and to the right of number 10 on my picture (your pump will look slightly different):

pump.jpg


Also make sure that you don't over tighten it because it will just strip the aluminium thread. These engines are also relatively difficult to get started after anything on the fuel side of things has been touched, but it will go eventually!

I'm only 15 mins away so give me a buzz if you need any help with anything!

-Pos
Click to expand...

Cheers for the extra pointers but today has been a bit of a nightmare. I've just come in from the garage feeling cold and hacked off :mad::mad::mad:

I loosened the bleed nipple but bob all was coming out of it when manually (or cranking the engine with starter) using the lever on the fuel pump. I then went back through the fuel system from the end at the injectors all the way back to the pipe that goes from the fuel pump to the fuel filter. Even when I pumped this I didn't get any fuel out of the top of the pipe!

Eventually I took off the connector that goes from the fuel tank to the fuel pump and nothing came out even when hung on the floor (below the fuel tank). I sucked this through to get rid of the airlock (which I don't know how got there so far back in the system anyway) and then re-attached the pipe to the fuel pump. When the pump is manually pumped then I can hear it trying but I don't think the connector is sealing as nothing is pumped through and if I put my fingers around it I can feel/hear air escaping from it. All I can think to try now is to get a new pipe/connector that goes from the fuel tank into the fuel pump (presume a dealer only part?) and see what happens then...

I wish I hadn't changed the frickin fuel filter now!!! So much for preventative maintenance! :hurt:

Cheers

Richard

P.S. I'm ignoring the wheel comments (for now) :p
 
blow back into the tank,makeing sure no blockage,fill tank to the neck then suck at the pump end.it should pick up from there if not get help and pressurise the tank
 
Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr - I'm about to torch the bloody thing :flame:

It STILL won't start despite lots of messing about with pumps and pipes!

Basically it wasn't just the union going into the lift pump but the threads were fubar'd and it was leaking. My local Landy specialist didn't have a used pump so I had to buy and fit a whole new lift pump which I did without too much trouble.

I then filled the fuel tank with a jerry can's worth of extra fuel (so now over 1/2 a tank) and pressurised it from the fuel filler using a rag and compressor. Fuel then came out of the disconnected fuel pipe that goes into the lift pump which was then secured and I hand primed the pump until it came out of the lift pump outlet. All pipes were then secured back on again and bled as people have said above. I tried to start it and eventually it did fire up for a few seconds but then died. This happened a couple of times until the battery (and then booster battery) died on me.

I put the batteries on charge again overnight thinking it would be fine with strong batteries today but nope. I didn't even get a fire out of the bloody thing today :(

Help!!! Any suggestions????? All I can think to do now is to replace ALL the fuel lines/connectors with new ones as I "think" air must be getting in somewhere. It is either that or pay someone that knows what they're doing to come have a look at it which is now becoming a possibility!

I'm definitely wishing I'd just left the fuel filter alone now :mad::mad::mad:

Cheers

Richard
 
I haven't got any ideas straight off my head :(I'm going down to Ipswich over the weekend but if you're about on Monday night i'll come over and have a good look at it all with you? (That's if you haven't got it going by then)
 
Congrats on the new Landy,
There are other experts here but...
1. Change engine oil (what oil should I use?)
I dont care what anyone says Fully synthetic designed for Turbo Diesels for me that's Mobil 1. It's protected my Merc faultlessly for 165k miles.
2. Change glow plugs (is this essential as starting is fine now I've discovered the half ignition turn to power the glow plugs?)
Glow plugs either work or they don't like a light bulb so save your money unless it's not firing up on all cylinders when you start it.
3. Change coolant (any particular type of antifreeze?)
I'd use Bluecol
4. Change brake fluid and bleed brakes (again, what DOT brake fluid?)
Dot 4 with a trusted logo
5. Check all brakes
6. Check handbrake drum/shoes
7. Replace oil filter
8. Replace fuel filter
9. Replace air filter
Only if it's dirty
10. Check/grease UV joints and swivels (best grease for this?)
Get a Haynes manual from halfords and buy the oil/grease/antifeeze it says once you are in the shop.
11. Change diff oil (sorry to ask again, but which type of oil?)
See 10
 
jzcktv said:
Congrats on the new Landy,
There are other experts here but...
1. Change engine oil (what oil should I use?)
I dont care what anyone says Fully synthetic designed for Turbo Diesels for me that's Mobil 1. It's protected my Merc faultlessly for 165k miles.
Click to expand...

I guess you use engine flush too...

Fancy oil contains detergents. These wash off the carbon deposits on the inside of the engine, whickare making it seal. Remove these, and the engine will loose compression and burn oil. I looked at buying one that had just been flushed, i've never seen so much smoke outta a 'healthy' engine.

If its used from new, then it is good. However, on an old worn engine... I wouldn't...
 
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