P38A New diesel pulley/ceased fulcrum change

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I don't rate the INA make.
I have to change them again.
They have only lasted two years.
They were replaced four months previous to that as well under guarantee....INA are usually pretty reliable...
 
Thankyou all,
What is INA? Tried to grease old one up with no joy, squeaking is driving me mad. No idea what brand - marked Slovakia
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New one is a 'blue print' brand, same markings
 

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Thankyou all,
What is INA? Tried to grease old one up with no joy, squeaking is driving me mad. No idea what brand - marked Slovakia
View attachment 170710 View attachment 170711
New one is a 'blue print' brand, same markings
Sure it's the idler pulley squeaking? The squeak on my Transit is actually the belt, a squirt of belt dressing and it stops for a while. Fitted a new belt and it was quiet for 6 months but the squeak is back now..
 
I know it's the pulley but my AC belt is bit cracked. Can you run without AC belt attached, or does it cause imbalance?

if you systematically spray them with water bottle when running, sound stops when you spray the culprit. I fitted a new aux belt recently but snapped my tensioner arm even tho Grrrrrr warned me, am fitting new pulley same time as greasing old one stopped noise for 2days only.
 
I know it's the pulley but my AC belt is bit cracked. Can you run without AC belt attached, or does it cause imbalance?

if you systematically spray them with water bottle when running, sound stops when you spray the culprit. I fitted a new aux belt recently but snapped my tensioner arm even tho Grrrrrr warned me, am fitting new pulley same time as greasing old one stopped noise for 2days only.
It's OK to run without the aircon belt
 
Yes its 17mm that fits the cap that has to be unscrewed to remove the arm from the pivot which is screwed into the block, I have had one that just wouldnt let go, in the end had cut the remains of the arm off so I could unscrew the lot from the block then get it in the vise to deal with it. And best of luck buying a 17mm allen key for a pound.

So the bu**er won't let go :confused:
Snapped the 89p rad key, got a BMW/MG 14/17mm hex plug which snapped the spanner
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Then only the whole oily bloody thing would come out of the block :mad:
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So I remembered you saying you had to cut...:eek:
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Hope I'm not missing a point (other than the spanner ; yet to be found :rolleyes:)
 
Well you are doing pretty well so far, if you can hold the hexagon end either in a vise or with a socket and put a bit of heat on the cap end you might just get it and this time use the ring end of the spanner please ! Open end if its easy going, ring end if it needs some welly ok :)
 
The extension bar would only slot over the ring end :rolleyes::D
Came off easy after, spanner tip is lost to damnation in engine bay somewhere?
Vice and heat is has to be, thing is bigger than it looks.
Thankyou all for your continuing support through my ordeal. Hopefully I won't snap it as ideally would like to be able to go to work Monday :eek:
 
Cant say ever used a bit of pipe on a spanner but do admit to hooking a ring spanner on to open end of a combination one before today, only pipe I use is on a wheel brace because of tyre fitters and impact guns, broke an 11mm combination not long ago not doing any thing silly with it either but it was an odd one I had picked up somewhere. Afraid my breakfast is normally corn flakes quick and easy (yes sad I know).
 
I did say this could happen. Every job you do is twice as difficult with crap tools. :D
Every vehicle I've had this would be simple procedure, not with a P38 :rolleyes: It was well jammed, nearly destroyed vice/solid bench (it's okay tho it wasn't mine) tighter than a wheel nut so in excess of 100nm easy and it's weakish alloy.
Laser hex plug survived undamaged
I had copper grease in an aerosol for this - it's like p**s, useless

Need to find what size torx bit opens the gearbox filler so can buy a single rather than £40 set for one job :eek:

Cornflakes is acceptable ;)
 
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