Freelander 1 New Clutch

Hi all,

I'm pretty new to the forum, and would appreciate all the help I can get. Especially from the experts

I have an awful clutch on my TD4, It's so heavy and horrible to use. I think its the original clutch which has covered 120k I think the springs have gone on the clutch itself and during a recent service, I noticed some very clean oil on the bell housing for the gearbox, and it smelt fishy. So I believe that the release bearing is on the way out. So I'm going to bite the bullet and replace the transmission components.

I've replaced a few clutches, DMF on previous cars but never worked on a Freelander, I will be attempting this without a ramp and will be relying on axel stands etc...

Has anyone attempted this without a lift? if so, any tips or tricks that could aid me?

Is there a 4x4 specialist that i can buy the components from? Or shall I stick with LUK and other known brands...

This is my second FL, it was a cheap buy and don't want to spend a fortune in garage labour replacing parts. Overall I'm very happy with my FL and it does what I need perfectly. Just the clutch is destroying my left leg lol.

Thanks

Craig

Craig_evs said:

Especially from the experts

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Fallen at the first hurdle then

I think the main difference changing the clutch on a Freelander compared to most cars, is the IRD. Although it is not 100% absolutely necessary to remove it, you are much better doing so, especially when it comes to reinstalling the gearbox. You don't necessarily have to get it out and away from the car, I think disconnecting it and resting it on the subframe is sufficient.

You will find lots of threads on here discussing what will be involved in the clutch change, this one is active currently...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/help-needed-please.309896/#post-3902427

...and I jest about the experts, there's lots of people on here know more than 99% of the garages that could separate you from your cash, 'cept I don't have a TD4 so ain't 1 of them.

You may wish to search and read for a few of my threads on TD4 clutches. I made one of mine much improved by calculating that the volume of the fluid in the master is not adequate to operate the slave at the right point. So - pedal bite point is always low and in the carpet and hence heavy on the leg !

Not saying your clutch doesn't need replacing, but the method mentioned is non-invasive to the engine and gearbox and may be worth a shot!?!?

Hello troops.
My Landy decided to pack in last week. Pedal went in the floor and never came back. Mine is 1.8 petrol k series in mondeo mode so hopefully easier to work on. Got new clutch kit already and sourced brand new slave cylinder bracket. Also new master/slave setup. So all ready to get dropped in. What I am afraid of is that lever for thrust bearing might have detached from shaft. Mine just went in and stayed there. Tried to get it back on the bellhousing but was vefy hard to move back and forth. Any ideas why?

tiz Mondo mode, not Mondeo

My bad...
But anyhow...looking at various posts online it is not to bad regarding difficulty. With access to two post ramp and amount of tools should not take more than 3 hours I hope. For me anyway and with loads of tea...

When you say "clutch kit", do you mean the hydraulics and bracket? They are a simple change, its all done "from the top" and the box does not need removal, so no ramps required.

If you've got a replacement clutch as well as hydraulics, then the box does need to come out. Whether it is mondo mode or not does not matter as you'll still have the IRD to contend with, it just won't have a prop shaft coming out the back of it (usually).

Usually just lubricating the release arm where it goes through the bell housing is sufficient to bring it back to life - however, if something has gone inside the bell housing, then hopefully its just a knackered brearing or its gone through the clutch which will all be replaced anyway (and hopefully hasn't damaged anything else).

Yes, fully free off and lubricate the actuating shaft

Yes I did get full lot. Clutch plate and clutch cover with brand new bearing. Also have new clutch master/slave hydraulics and brand new slave cylinder bracket. I will be changing the full setup. So access to ramps is a great benefit. Also haynes manual in hand. Do the subframe has to go (like in haynes manual) or I will manage without moving it? Have whole weekend to do it so no in the hurry.
Tried to put some grease and wd40 on shaft but no result. So when I get gearbox out will see for sure whats wrong with it.

Thanks for all the replies guys

I'm new to all the lingo, but what does mondo mode mean?

My TD4 is 2 wheel drive and I'm planning on replacing the Props and VC to hopefully get the 4x4 working. What are the common fault with the 4x4 system/

Cheers

Craig_evs said:

I'm new to all the lingo, but what does mondo mode mean?

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2WD - no prop shaft

Craig_evs said:

Thanks for all the replies guys

I'm new to all the lingo, but what does mondo mode mean?

My TD4 is 2 wheel drive and I'm planning on replacing the Props and VC to hopefully get the 4x4 working. What are the common fault with the 4x4 system/

Cheers

Click to expand...

You might want to check out the condition of the IRD output pinion and crown wheel bearings first. Lots of times the props are removed to make the car driveable after the above problems manifest themselves.

So how would I check the IRD and bearing?

Sorry for all the questions guys, pretty new to 4x4 in general.

Get hold of it and check for lateral play. Ideally pop off the pinion and visually inspect the pinion and the gear inside.

davidsmith1307 said:

Get hold of it and check for lateral play. Ideally pop off the pinion and visually inspect the pinion and the gear inside.

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Also drain the oil to look at its condition. If the oil looks like is has a metallic silver sheen, the IRD will need a rebuild

I'll have a look in the near future, I would like to get the 4x4 working but gotta be realistic with budget. Only purchased it for £1400. Would love to do some soft off roading in it ")

Craig_evs said:

I'll have a look in the near future, I would like to get the 4x4 working but gotta be realistic with budget. Only purchased it for £1400. Would love to do some soft off roading in it ")

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A working 4x4 system will make a Freelander do better than soft roading They are awesome off road, far better than any other equivalent vehicle.

+1 on all the bits about checking the IRD - I would add that before you drain the oil, you loosen the fill flug. This is because they are soft as cheese and will often just round off - if you've dumped the oil out of it - you wont be able to get it to a shop to get it removed!

Freelander is all about traction - it'll almost always find some grip regardless of what's underneath it - sand, mud, snow etc - much better at it than the 'bigger' 4WDs. Where is finds more limitations is in ground clearance and lack of a low-range box - so things like ruts and large obstacles will stop a Freelander before the bigger 4WDs.

Hey troops. So today changed my clutch kit to the new one. Nice apart that car won't start now. I have had battery out for a whole operation which, with tea brakes, took about 7 hours to do. Car now cranks as usual but not starting. Plugged to computer and no error codes. Is it possible that immobiliser prevents it from starting? Because was battery was disconnected? I run out of the ideas. Car started no problem to go on the ramps. Even checked all wiring again and again. Sparks on all four cylinders. Earth back on the gearbox bolt. First gear and reverse switches back in place. And small black plug on top of the gearbox back on. Fresh oil in both IRD and gearbox itself. Any ideas?