Mark L
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I've just visited these guys. Top bunch.
New hoses in the pipe line, so to speak.
New hoses in the pipe line, so to speak.
new bling (dph silicon hoses)
- Thread starter rhodie
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zoolander
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CB40
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- Sutton Coldfield, West Midlands
zoolander
New Member
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Im always getting my mitts in the way when using the iphone for photos
CB40
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I'm always getting my mitts in the way when using the iphone for photos
Thank heaven you said 'mitts'.............:lol:
sijwhite
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Just ordered a complete set in blue. I'll post pics when I've fitted them
CB40
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Just ordered a complete set in blue. I'll post pics when I've fitted them
Good choice (IMHO)
Look at post 60 on page 6 for an idea of what you'll get...
CB40
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Looking Good JonFre!
Mine are blue and looking a bit dull now, what's the easiest way to clean theses guys?
Mine are blue and looking a bit dull now, what's the easiest way to clean theses guys?
Singvogel
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Yeah - mine have faded a bit too.
They don't look as bright as they did back in post 7 on page 1.
I had to fit a replacement for the 90degree bend one and now they dont match.
Singvogel.
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CB40
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I've been told Pledge (it's a silicone based furniture polish). Anyone tried it?
JonFre
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fitted the full set of silicon hoses this week:
A few thoughts re my expensive silicon hoses. (No I have not won the lottery, they were a birthday present from my son and his wife) Although I say expensive the original LR hoses aren't exactly cheap and hopefully the silicons will last longer, I will keep a lookout on any rubbing on screws etc.
I would suggest that the large inlet hose is probably only cosmetic, the old hose at 8 years old was in perfect condition and with no pressue in it doesn't really do much.
The new hose clamps do need to be really tight, much tighter than the old jubilee type clips. A smear of grease on the new stainless screw threads would help as my screws were a bit sticky. I was very pleased to see how clean my EGR valve was, it was cleaned over a year ago, the vacuum feed pipe was removed quite a few years ago, and the inside of the valve looks perfect. I cannot see a reason to replace the EGR with a blanked unit.
Probably the hardest job with replacing the hoses is the removal of the old ones, the hose clips are in some awkward places. I would not want to replace a hose at the side of the road in the event of a breakdown.
Incidentally in the photo some of the hose elbow angles look tight, they are not, it is the very wide angle lens causing distortion.
Hi All
New to the forum but been reading up on various post and got to say the advise on this site is awesome.
Anyway got my Freelander a few weeks back all perfect except for the plooms of black smoke when under hard acceleration. Having read through this thread I was convinced the hoses were the problem and promptly order a replacement set from DPH (blue). Sure enough there was a hole right on the bend of the tricky pipe (where it seems to sit right on the sharp edge by the bolt!!!). Within a hour or so on Saturday afternoon all hoses replaced and no black smoke whatsoever. Really pleased, I'm in no way a mechanic but the advise on here was enough for me to give it a go.
New to the forum but been reading up on various post and got to say the advise on this site is awesome.
Anyway got my Freelander a few weeks back all perfect except for the plooms of black smoke when under hard acceleration. Having read through this thread I was convinced the hoses were the problem and promptly order a replacement set from DPH (blue). Sure enough there was a hole right on the bend of the tricky pipe (where it seems to sit right on the sharp edge by the bolt!!!). Within a hour or so on Saturday afternoon all hoses replaced and no black smoke whatsoever. Really pleased, I'm in no way a mechanic but the advise on here was enough for me to give it a go.
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Singvogel
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Hi Warders, and :welcome2:
I'd put a bit of closed cell foam behind the new hose to protect it from that nasty screw behind it.
Also your Synergy looks a bit vulnerable in the top right corner just hanging there.
I put mine in a bubble wrap bag inside a zip-lock bag, and tucked it in behind the ECU.
Where yours is it could get wet from splash water coming up from the wheel-arch through the steering-lingage aperture. Beware of salt -spray in the winter.
I see you still have what appears to be a functioning EGR - have you thought of a by-pass or even just simply de-activating it?
Singvogel.
I'd put a bit of closed cell foam behind the new hose to protect it from that nasty screw behind it.
Also your Synergy looks a bit vulnerable in the top right corner just hanging there.
I put mine in a bubble wrap bag inside a zip-lock bag, and tucked it in behind the ECU.
Where yours is it could get wet from splash water coming up from the wheel-arch through the steering-lingage aperture. Beware of salt -spray in the winter.
I see you still have what appears to be a functioning EGR - have you thought of a by-pass or even just simply de-activating it?
Singvogel.
Hi Singvogel
Thanks, your posts on this subject were very helpful.
As I mentioned I'm not very mechanically minded so I'm not really sure what the EGR does! I assume from reading ealier posts there are no problems by passing or de-activating, what are the implications? I like the idea of de-activating (sounds like the easiest option!!).
I take your point on the Synergy unit, it was on the car when I got it so it's only from reading on here that I knew what it was. I'll have a look at protecting it at the weekend.
Got a few other things to look into, firstly rather noisey suspension at low speed and secondly I would like to replace the HK stereo system. Not sure why but the is no Bass through any of the speakers except the sub in the boot but that vibrates terribly so have to have Bass on -7 and its the worst tinny noise you can imagine!
Any tips would be greatly appreciated but in the meantime back to searching the forum!
Thanks again
Warders
Thanks, your posts on this subject were very helpful.
As I mentioned I'm not very mechanically minded so I'm not really sure what the EGR does! I assume from reading ealier posts there are no problems by passing or de-activating, what are the implications? I like the idea of de-activating (sounds like the easiest option!!).
I take your point on the Synergy unit, it was on the car when I got it so it's only from reading on here that I knew what it was. I'll have a look at protecting it at the weekend.
Got a few other things to look into, firstly rather noisey suspension at low speed and secondly I would like to replace the HK stereo system. Not sure why but the is no Bass through any of the speakers except the sub in the boot but that vibrates terribly so have to have Bass on -7 and its the worst tinny noise you can imagine!
Any tips would be greatly appreciated but in the meantime back to searching the forum!
Thanks again
Warders
Singvogel
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The EGR was a sop by many engine manufacturers to the emission control regs.
It does work to some extent on a new engine, but it does seem to become pointless as the miles pile up.
It allows exhaust gasses to be re-consumed through the intake ducting supposedly to reduce noxious fumes coming out the exhaust!
Strangely my TD4 MOT test results show less smoke without the EGR than with - no smoke at all in fact, even with 2-stroke oil added to the diesel.
On a TD4 the hot sooty exhaust gasses mix with the oily vapours coming through the turbo and form a black, sticky, treacle-like substance in the EGR body and inlet manifold reducing the air-flow.
Some folks regularly clean their EGR - not an easy or pleasant task.
Some folks buy a by-pass and block off the exhaust link. £30 - £40
The cheapest minimum effort way to improve things is just to pull off the little braided vacuum pipe - that will stop the EGR opening and so stop the gunge building up further. Then you need to bung up the open hole of the braid pipe. You need a special plug for that - a self-tapping screw or a golf-tee. And tie the now redundant pipe up to stop it flopping around.
To clean up the EGR just take it off - 4 screws - get Mr Muscle onto the job, and Bob's your father's brother.
Some folks have also put their intake manifold in the dish-washer - but Mrs Singvogel would have a fit if I tried that. I just cleaned it as best I could with paraffin and an old toothbrush.
I'm sure you'll find lots to read about the EGR.
Mine is now gathering dust on a shelf in the back of the garage.
S.
It does work to some extent on a new engine, but it does seem to become pointless as the miles pile up.
It allows exhaust gasses to be re-consumed through the intake ducting supposedly to reduce noxious fumes coming out the exhaust!
Strangely my TD4 MOT test results show less smoke without the EGR than with - no smoke at all in fact, even with 2-stroke oil added to the diesel.
On a TD4 the hot sooty exhaust gasses mix with the oily vapours coming through the turbo and form a black, sticky, treacle-like substance in the EGR body and inlet manifold reducing the air-flow.
Some folks regularly clean their EGR - not an easy or pleasant task.
Some folks buy a by-pass and block off the exhaust link. £30 - £40
The cheapest minimum effort way to improve things is just to pull off the little braided vacuum pipe - that will stop the EGR opening and so stop the gunge building up further. Then you need to bung up the open hole of the braid pipe. You need a special plug for that - a self-tapping screw or a golf-tee. And tie the now redundant pipe up to stop it flopping around.
To clean up the EGR just take it off - 4 screws - get Mr Muscle onto the job, and Bob's your father's brother.
Some folks have also put their intake manifold in the dish-washer - but Mrs Singvogel would have a fit if I tried that. I just cleaned it as best I could with paraffin and an old toothbrush.
I'm sure you'll find lots to read about the EGR.
Mine is now gathering dust on a shelf in the back of the garage.
S.
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Singvogel
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Oops - small omission.
To take off the EGR there are indeed 4 machine screws or allan key screws, but there is a strange circular clamp around the exhaust intake/connection which you need to treat with care as you need to stretch it a bit to get it off.
It's an unusual beast of a thing only replaceable at a LR dealer.
S.
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CB40
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Hmm, whilst this has inspired me to something about mine at last, what if the current situation is that it's pretty 'clogged' with this treacle like deposit at the moment and all I do is this de-activation ... will the clogging-up just stop, will it get any worse or will it actually improve?
Mine's '52 plate with hardly any Service history after the first 30,000.
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imo ..would probably just stop ..
but take into account that an oily mist will still be present from the turbo via the intercooler hosing
best to give the egr a cleanout .. better still install an egr-delete ..
as that doesn't have the valve body inside .. and will give an improved airflow
~~~~~
'Warders'
have attached a pic of a synergy unit placed behind the electronics box
( wrapped in plastic with a couple of ventilation holes ..
( and what was a camera case ..
it fits snugly there ..
also there be a note in the synergy instructions
to keep the synergy cables well clear of the injector harness cables
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