Need advice... Ive tried everything

Right, hello all.
Im in need of some advice on where to look next.
Been having the same problem with my 99 td5 for the past few months (just not had time to look at it as off the road) anyway my o/s rear brake is binding and not releasing, driving it about a mile or so will cause the brake to become red hot. Ive checked the calliper all good as put new pads and discs on. Plugged into computer and got the abs sensor fault. Thought id buy a new hub and sensor and fit it. Now the fault will not go away after clearing and the breaks still binding.
Where do I go from here? Could it be the ABS Valueblock? could it be the SLABS ecu or could it be a break in the wire?
Any suggestions would be great! can't wait to get it on the road only if I can sort this problem out .
Jacob

you still got faulty sensor showing on the diagnostics?

jamesmartin said:

you still got faulty sensor showing on the diagnostics?

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yes mate, still saying "abs right sensor fault permanent" don't really know where I would be able to go from here

Silverdiscojv said:

yes mate, still saying "abs right sensor fault permanent"

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If the brake is still binding and thus causing that wheel to rotate slower than the other one on the axle, then you will get the ABS sensor fault, as it reads the speed differential between the two hubs. If you are driving on soft ground/mud.
If you are still getting it driving on tarmac, and the wheel isn't slipping at all, then you have two problems, the sticking brakes and the ABS fault.
At least, that is the way i would read it.
But others may have a better idea.

Stanleysteamer said:

If the brake is still binding and thus causing that wheel to rotate slower than the other one on the axle, then you will get the ABS sensor fault, as it reads the speed differential between the two hubs. If you are driving on soft ground/mud.
If you are still getting it driving on tarmac, and the wheel isn't slipping at all, then you have two problems, the sticking brakes and the ABS fault.
At least, that is the way i would read it.
But others may have a better idea.

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Yes that’s correct mate, my question is tho why is that happening. I’ve looked at everything and can’t seem to find anything obvious unless I’m not looking correctly. Is there anything you recommend or how to fix this

Silverdiscojv said:

Yes that’s correct mate, my question is tho why is that happening. I’ve looked at everything and can’t seem to find anything obvious unless I’m not looking correctly. Is there anything you recommend

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Apart from all the obvious stuff to stop a calliper binding, there has been a thread on here about two diagonal sets of callipers binding.
Offside rear and nearside front, if I remember correctly.
You may need to search on here for it. sorry I can't put up a link.
I'll have a look in a mo and see if I can find it.
Apart from that, what I would suggest you do to see if it is just the binding brake calliper, would turn some people's hair grey, as i am old skool and do things not by the book from time to time.
If you have the ability to get all four wheels off the ground, i.e. 4 strong axle stands or something, I'd take a pad out of the offending brake, put the car up on stands, start it and put it into drive or 1 if it is auto, or into first if not, and see if, with the wheels all turning, you still get the ABS lights, i.e. 3 amigos, coming up, you will need to get the wheels turning until about 8 mph is indicated if i remember accurately.
If the amigos do not come up and your diagnostic shows you have no sensor problem, then you can concentrate on sorting out the calliper problem.
This dosen't sort your problem out but it may point you in the right direction.
and bear in mind the binding is the symptom of the problem, not the problem itself, unless there is a ton of air in the calliper and/or the difformable seal around the piston(s) is fubar.
Best of luck

On the wheel with the binding brake, with the wheel off, can you push the piston back into the caliper housing ?
IF not, you may have a mastercylinder, ABS modulator, brake hose or pedal box fault - causing pressure to be trapped.
If you can push the piston back, it's more likely you have sticking caliper slide pins.
If you remove the brake pads, can you identify if 1 Or both are overheating ?
IF 1, which 1 - inboard or outboard ?

Silverdiscojv said:

yes mate, still saying "abs right sensor fault permanent" don't really know where I would be able to go from here

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you need to fix that first as caliper isnt binding as in your fgirst post, try reseating sensor

Hi, first of all if you have that fault code as permannent you should have the 3(maybe 4) amigos on and you didnt mention that. If the amigos are on the modulator should be disabled so no ABS/TC activity which means the problem for the binding caliper is mechanical or hydraulical and the sensor thing is separate. If you have diagnostic tool read live stationary inputs to see what's the input from that particular sensor compared to the others. To rule out an ECU misbehaviour disconnect the electrical connector of the modulator and see if it happens then or not, youl'll have more codes logged after this test just connect the modulator back and clear them all

sierrafery said:

Hi, first of all if you have that fault code as permannent you should have the 3(maybe 4) amigos on and you didnt mention that. If the amigos are on the modulator should be disabled so no ABS/TC activity which means the problem for the binding caliper is mechanical or hydraulical and the sensor thing is separate. If you have diagnostic tool read live stationary inputs to see what's the input from that particular sensor compared to the others. To rule out an ECU misbehaviour disconnect the electrical connector of the modulator and see if it happens then or not, youl'll have more codes logged after this test just connect the modulator back and clear them all

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Sorry should have mentioned yes I have the 3 amigos on . Thankyou for your advice. I will disconnect the abs modulator and see if it still happens with it.

jamesmartin said:

you need to fix that first as caliper isnt binding as in your fgirst post, try reseating sensor

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Thanks mate I’ll have a look to see how to rest abs sensor

Stanleysteamer said:

If the brake is still binding and thus causing that wheel to rotate slower than the other one on the axle, then you will get the ABS sensor fault, as it reads the speed differential between the two hubs.

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You've got this wron Stanley. If that's the case and the system works well the TC would activate the brake on the wheel which is spinning faster without any code ... Like you say there would be no TC at all as the system would go to default each time a wheel is spinning faster

Silverdiscojv said:

Sorry should have mentioned yes I have the 3 amigos on . Thankyou for your advice. I will disconnect the abs modulator and see if it still happens with it.

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sierrafery said:

Hi, first of all if you have that fault code as permannent you should have the 3(maybe 4) amigos on and you didnt mention that. If the amigos are on the modulator should be disabled so no ABS/TC activity which means the problem for the binding caliper is mechanical or hydraulical and the sensor thing is separate. If you have diagnostic tool read live stationary inputs to see what's the input from that particular sensor compared to the others. To rule out an ECU misbehaviour disconnect the electrical connector of the modulator and see if it happens then or not, youl'll have more codes logged after this test just connect the modulator back and clear them all

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What would you do then disconnect the abs and then take it on a test drive to see if it still happens then I’ll be able to work out it’s the calliper

Silverdiscojv said:

What would you do then disconnect the abs and then take it on a test drive to see if it still happens then I’ll be able to work out it’s the calliper

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It can still be that the valve in the modulator for that line is sticking and doesnt let the pressure back but that's not very common and you can't rule it out without changing or bypassing the modulator