Nanocom Results / Rough Starting

johnlad said:

How does it start first thing in the morning if before trying to start it, you run the purge process with a fully charged good battery

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Battery’s good but the alternator is only putting out 11-13v so if I get a chance tomorrow I’m going to change it. When I tried it today from stone cold there was a small amount of white smoke/roughness but still a lot better than it has been

tom1979 said:

Battery’s good but the alternator is only putting out 11-13v so if I get a chance tomorrow I’m going to change it. When I tried it today from stone cold there was a small amount of white smoke/roughness but still a lot better than it has been

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Not what I asked, read my first reply again

Yeah sorry read it wrong way around - it’s exactly the same

Thought I was making some progress but after two full primes this morning the problem remains! Starting to lose the will to live with it now.

tom1979 said:

Thought I was making some progress but after two full primes this morning the problem remains! Starting to lose the will to live with it now.

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Ok
Using a code reader with the car idling after starting check injector balances, not bothered too much by the figures but if any are way different from each other.

johnlad said:

Ok
Using a code reader with the car idling after starting check injector balances, not bothered too much by the figures but if any are way different from each other.

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They were all with 10 of each other. However as a last resort i changed all the injectors this morning. New genuine copper washers (annealed too), new genuine o rings. The injectors were untested when I bought them a few years ago and have sat on the shelf ever since.

Started it and plumes of smoke of all colours, cleared it let it settle for 20 mins and started again and there was just the tiniest puff of what looked like light blue smoke when lifting off the accelerator after the second rev, nothing after that just a bit of black smoke as normal, and no roughness whatsoever

So hopefully tomorrow when I try it it’ll still be good!

tom1979 said:

They were all with 10 of each other.

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That seems very odd results at idle...mine is normally a lot closer than that.

Cheers

You really need a compression test if the fault persists

neilly said:

That seems very odd results at idle...mine is normally a lot closer than that.

Cheers

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To be honest I wasn’t really looking at that at the time so I don’t know exactly but it wasn’t anything abnormal or out of the ordinary

sierrafery said:

You really need a compression test if the fault persists

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I’ll be doing it anyway I think! It’s fairly painless via the glow plugs

One thing I did notice today (and before now I think about it) is the MAF reading at idle is 60-62 which I thought was a little high?? Genuine LR less than 6 months old

tom1979 said:

One thing I did notice today (and before now I think about it) is the MAF reading at idle is 60-62 which I thought was a little high?? Genuine LR less than 6 months old

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That reading is very good but it has not much to do with your symptom anyway

sierrafery said:

That reading is very good but it has not much to do with your symptom anyway

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I was thinking it had to be in the 50’s but yes it has nothing to do with the current problem and glad it’s a good reading. Looking forward to seeing how it starts tomorrow after being left overnight.

When I do the compression test I am going to do it via glowplug ports, mainly because I don’t want to disturb the injectors again. What kind of readings should I expect? I have read differing opinions ranging from 300-400psi

tom1979 said:

I was thinking it had to be in the 50’s but yes it has nothing to do with the current problem and glad it’s a good reading. Looking forward to seeing how it starts tomorrow after being left overnight.

When I do the compression test I am going to do it via glowplug ports, mainly because I don’t want to disturb the injectors again. What kind of readings should I expect? I have read differing opinions ranging from 300-400psi

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Compression test through glow plugs is only on 4 cylinders, you need an electronic compression test using an engine analyser reading cranking compression of all 5 cylinders

johnlad said:

Compression test through glow plugs is only on 4 cylinders, you need an electronic compression test using an engine analyser reading cranking compression of all 5 cylinders

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Yeah I know but we’re not that advanced! 4 out of 5 is better than nothing! I could do it via the injector sockets but having seen them 4 times in a short amount of time recently I’m reluctant to pull them all just for a little puff of what “appears” blue smoke on startup. When it’s bellowing plumes of blue smoke I’ll happily do it properly ! 4 out of 5 will give some idea I’d have thought

Went to it this morning, exactly the same
What else apart from the injector washers would cause this?

tom1979 said:

Went to it this morning, exactly the same
What else apart from the injector washers would cause this?

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Drawing air in from somewhere, or leaky injector, head gasket or head or knackered engine.
What year is it and how many miles on it.

johnlad said:

Drawing air in from somewhere, or leaky injector, head gasket or head or knackered engine.
What year is it and how many miles on it.

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Year 2000, 87k miles.

Injectors have been changed. If it was head gasket I'd expect some coolant loss. If it was a knackered engine would it not sound knackered? It's never missed a beat.

IMO 4 out of 5 compressions would give you an ideea if something is wrong, you should get at least 23 Bar on each on a good engine, between 25-28 is the best

sierrafery said:

IMO 4 out of 5 compressions would give you an ideea if something is wrong, you should get at least 23 Bar on each on a good engine, between 25-28 is the best

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I will do a compression test but it does seem more "airy" and I have never noticed that hissing noise from the head before. Surely if a cylinder was low on compression it would run like a bag of bolts all the time?