P38A Nanocom not liking eas

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domino

Well-Known Member
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Location
Edinburgh
Hello all.

My Nanocom no longer wants to communicate with the ecu when it comes to EAS (may be symptomatic of something else.. Explained later)

It refuses to communicate with the ecu when in eas, saying it can't talk to it. I can go in to outputs.. But moving along from the first screen and the whole thing freezes meaning a restart of Nanocom.

Side note: all the readings appear to be wildly out for everything else. Fuel temperature sitting at 113.5 - first thing in the morning and the car hasn't been running.

Wondering if this is a BECM issue or something else? Car does have a few juggles like when opening a door, it would flash quickly between RH Door Open and standard display of mileage until I close the door. However, I'm in the car right now and it's not even registering a door being open.
 
Hello all.

My Nanocom no longer wants to communicate with the ecu when it comes to EAS (may be symptomatic of something else.. Explained later)

It refuses to communicate with the ecu when in eas, saying it can't talk to it. I can go in to outputs.. But moving along from the first screen and the whole thing freezes meaning a restart of Nanocom.

Side note: all the readings appear to be wildly out for everything else. Fuel temperature sitting at 113.5 - first thing in the morning and the car hasn't been running.

Wondering if this is a BECM issue or something else? Car does have a few juggles like when opening a door, it would flash quickly between RH Door Open and standard display of mileage until I close the door. However, I'm in the car right now and it's not even registering a door being open.
@Datatek I think is the man to ask about nanocoms he the guru on them or he might know someone who is
 
Yeah that was my first thought so it's been on charge overnight. Its fit and healthy, fully charged.
When you take it off charge, leave it for an hour and then check the voltage, if you can't wait an hour, leave the headlights on for a couple of mins, then check the voltage again. This will give you a more accurate idea of the true health of the battery
 
When you take it off charge, leave it for an hour and then check the voltage, if you can't wait an hour, leave the headlights on for a couple of mins, then check the voltage again. This will give you a more accurate idea of the true health of the battery

Understood; trust me, the battery is good :)
 
Assume you've check loom/ecu connectors too then..
Is the delay relay plugged in and fully functional? That's required to talk to the eas
Yep, relay under px seat in place. No dodgy connectors that I can find, have unplugged and replugged or just made sure they're firmly in place.

Just not sure what path comms with the EAS ecu takes - if it's through the BECM or bypassed straight to the eas unit.
 
Ok I'm getting into guesswork now, but...
If you have a shared BUS with something else connected that's got a fault, that can fill the BUS with junk signals, leaving little/no room for genuine signals from the part in question. That might explain why other systems are showing implausible outputs.
Are you able to pull any errors from any other system? When the car is running, is there anything not working? Might help narrow the search.
Like i said, guesswork and may not be valid.
 
Perfectly valid point.

BECM complained about jot being able to talk to the LH outstation - cleared that fault and it was happy again. Really, that's the only fault found and cleared, everything else is as 'normal' apart from being unable to talk to the EAS. And, things like this IMG_20200919_104738.jpg
 
Connectors behind the passenger kick-panel?
Checked, all good and happy. No corrosion.

Was a little bit of corrosion on the odb port but striped that out and cleaned up, wires appear to be fine. Squirt of contact cleaner and a light scrub.

Nanocom just freezes on EAS stuff or turns off.
 
Is your Nanocom on latest firmware version ? EAS bus is not shared with anything else as far as I can see.

It also might be worth trying EAS-Unlock software.
 
Yep, upgraded it today to make sure.

Relay doesn't click when you navigate to eas in Nanocom. Dash does indicate an issue if you remove the relay though.
 
Is the correct relay fitted ? Quite a few have substituted the 5-pin delay timer for a 4-pin standard relay as a fudge to disable self-levelling when parked.

Also re-check C104 / C204 behind LH kick panel. The diagnostic trigger for the delay relay & the EAS communications both go via those connectors.
 
Is the correct relay fitted ? Quite a few have substituted the 5-pin delay timer for a 4-pin standard relay as a fudge to disable self-levelling when parked.

Also re-check C104 / C204 behind LH kick panel. The diagnostic trigger for the delay relay & the EAS communications both go via those connectors.

Yep, relay is correct and the connectors are fine, no corrosion or weak connections.
 
Update (no progress):

1) Still no comms however the compressor is running somewhat erratically; 2 seconds on, 2 seconds off. One of the valves/solenoids is clicking away like a machine gun. It's exhausting after every run.

2) Selector flashes trying to get to a selected height but never achieves it.

3) checked fuse under bonnet, all good.

4) checked voltages at the easy timer relay, correct 12v between 5 and 2 when ignition off, 12v on pin 4 when ignition is on.

5) LH kick plate connectors fine.
6) EAS ECU connector fine under the seat.


Just checking as I write this, if I change the selector back down to access height, the machine gun clicking stops.. And now I get a ticking like a clock, every second, on/of from a valve/solenoid. The compressor runs for longer.. But can still hear it exhausting.

Will try and upload two videos here.. But no guarantee they will work! Or not as it doesn't accept it.
 
Update (no progress):

1) Still no comms however the compressor is running somewhat erratically; 2 seconds on, 2 seconds off. One of the valves/solenoids is clicking away like a machine gun. It's exhausting after every run.

2) Selector flashes trying to get to a selected height but never achieves it.

3) checked fuse under bonnet, all good.

4) checked voltages at the easy timer relay, correct 12v between 5 and 2 when ignition off, 12v on pin 4 when ignition is on.

5) LH kick plate connectors fine.
6) EAS ECU connector fine under the seat.


Just checking as I write this, if I change the selector back down to access height, the machine gun clicking stops.. And now I get a ticking like a clock, every second, on/of from a valve/solenoid. The compressor runs for longer.. But can still hear it exhausting.

Will try and upload two videos here.. But no guarantee they will work! Or not as it doesn't accept it.
Something is upsetting your ECU maybe a failed switch pack.
 
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