Disco 2 Nanocom Fault code 17.2

Hi Guys

I have this Discovery 2 TD5 (that's the Nigel mentioned), which I bought in June for not much money. I've had a tussle with ABS faults, which the Nanocom helped with no end, and now Nigel is MOT'd for another year.

The seller had stuck plastic tape over the warning lights BTW, thought I hadn't noticed, but the car had a newish back chassis - very solid - had a load of invoices for work done, was clean and less than a grand with current MOT, so worth a punt.

Anyroad, I'm working through faults, put on a new MAF, worked on the brakes that sort of stuff. lately, a new fault has shown up on the Nanocom, it reads (17.2), Hgh speed crank (current). I'm thinking crank position sensor, but don't know really, being new to this model.

Any ideas?

Yes, for that fault code the CPS is the first suspect, dont buy cheap aftermarket, go for branded one see this https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td5-overboost-misfire.338255/#post-4405798

I had thought CPS as I said.

Got one ordered, a Hella - try to fit it next weekend.

Hi. This is very late but I'm going to post my experience with the 17.2 Crank speed high error. It may help someone, I struggled with it for a while.
So I've got a high (274k mile) TD5 disco 2 (2001) with ACE and no air suspension and a manual gearbox.

Recently the EML came on for the first time ever. Nanocom gave various error messages including ambient air pressure lost and crank speed high (current). Vehicle ran fine and started first touch. I unplugged the CPS and instantly saw a broken wire (my clumsy unplugging). I fitted a new plug leaving long tails onto the end of the shilded wire and played with all plugs. Started instantly but all errors remained the same. No EML though and it never came on again whatever I did.
Having read Sierrafery state that the shielding is critical elsewhere I ubplugged the loom and pulled it up to solder the plug on as close as possible. Reconnect and no change. Fuel temp is 60.0 degrees but it's 28 degrees outside and the engine has run a few minutes so I ignored it.

After a few weeks I decide that I cant live with the 17.2 error being there and decide to swap the CPS. Fit a Hella and no change to the error situation.
Today I decide to rewire the whole engine, or at least pull all cables back, check, repair and rewrap in new conduit. I found the following...... The starter solenoid feed had a small nick in it so I wrapped it. This wasn't the issue. The oil pressure sender wire had been cut a strands of wire wrapped together. Soldered it up but again that wasn't the issue. Glow plug boots have all spilt but that's not the issue. The fuel temp sender plug had a broken wire so I soldered that up. Wrapped all of the loom and refitted.

Started the vehicle and I had all of the errors imaginable. Had a hunt and realised MAP was unplugged. Connected and started the vehicle. I then had ambient air pressure and high crank speed faults remaining. So no change. Checked all plugs and connectors at the front of the vehicle and found nothing. Just as I'm packing up for a beer and a sulk I noticed that I could see the fuel temp sensor but not a plug on it. Reconnected the plug and hey presto the ambient air pressure fault and the high crank speed faults had cleared. So the issue all along was a broken wire right a the plug on the fuel temp sender. Unplugging the fuel temp seems to pehg the fuel temp to 60.0 and generates the other 2 errors as well. Can't explain why it through the codes but it did.

The other thing that this did is to throw an error code in the ACE for engine speed lost. Throughout I had 0 running issues, and 0 problems with ACE so it would have been very easy to just ignore and if I hadn't put Nanocom on the vehicle I wouldn't have known a thing.

As a further aid for anyone fault finding. My CPS had and has no spacer. Also if I uplugged the sensor the high crank speed error (current) remained.

For those with only normal wrists and standard arms my solution to changing the CPS was to throw the steering on full left lock. Jack the front right side of the vehicle. Lie under the vehicle with my head on the tire looking through the hole in the inner wing whilst using a 1/4 ratchet with a 8mm socket to get the CPS out. Reach up in front of the bolt in cross member and you can see and feel the CPS and it's bolt belllow the plug. You will want the handle of the ratchet pointing to the front of the vehicle, you should find it's an easy job then.

If anyone else has this,I'd say it's time to do a full check on the loom because the insulation on my wires were as hard as could be, it needed some love. Oil, heat, diesel and time had done it no favours.