My Series rebuild

swap filter and don't worry, better filtered oil, than filter bypassed and unfiltered oil round engine-just do the next oil change a little sooner

So the oil will be fine if I drain it and refit the filter ?

Or do I just unscrew the filter fast and put the new one on then top up after running the engine for a minute or two ?

what harm do you think your going to do draining the oil?

so long as it goes into a clean container whats the problem?

blue beasty said:

what harm do you think your going to do draining the oil?

so long as it goes into a clean container whats the problem?

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Well it was just incase it took the crud out of the filter at the same time as draining the oil from the sump, I've got a clean tub to use so its not a problem

I was just worried about cross contamination but it it wont be a problem then I'll do it tomorrow it's all set up under a tarp so I'll be dry ish

blue beasty said:

what harm do you think your going to do draining the oil?

so long as it goes into a clean container whats the problem?

Click to expand...

Well it was just incase it took the crud out of the filter at the same time as draining the oil from the sump, I've got a clean tub to use so its not a problem

I was just worried about cross contamination but it it wont be a problem then I'll do it tomorrow it's all set up under a tarp so I'll be dry ish

Which engine is it again? I would have thought you could change the filter without draining the oil, on most engines the oil in the sump is at a lower level that the filter housing so changing the filter with the sump full will not cause any greater oil loss than changing it with the sump empty.

It's an early V8, its got the screw on filter though

Its all good, swapped it over and lost no oil as I hadn't pumped it back through the system yet




Question though;


My temp spikes from nothing to about 3/4 even if I'm doing nothing.

I moved the 109 about 20 meters rather slowly just to get all the oil back round the system and moving in the diffs, the coolant mix is about 60/40 in favour of coolant.

Is this a case of water pump not working right ?

The top pipe was hot to the touch and the bottom cold so I guess the radiator is working so what can I do to cool this beast down further ?

Thanks



Also the carb has had a pipe cut on the front of it in order to re-route fuel from the pump through one split pipe coming off the other carb rather than one split pipe coming off the fuel pump or two single pipes on a divider, whats the best way to change the fuel flow ?

Take off the old cut pipe and put it back to a double off the pump or completely seal off the old inlet ?

Just remembered I forgot to update fully for today


Right, water pump / radiator is blocked or something so that needs flushing tomorrow (again)

Rear shocks are ****ed, the top covers are rusty so I'm replacing them with the same Monroes again

Ground down all welds to make them even with the old rails

Cut out rotten bulkhead parts and footwells

Spray painted the diff guard in a rather fetching orange though

I'm helping a m8 tidy series 3 1979 swb needs welding
Rear crossmember
Spring hanger
Front crossmember
And wot I can c till I get it up on ramps n have a good look underneath

And also if anyone cn help I'm after a wiring diagram for the dash as sum kids tried nicking it
N pulled dash off no lights or power bt engine Starts ok

Dr_evil said:

Question though;


My temp spikes from nothing to about 3/4 even if I'm doing nothing.

Click to expand...

This could be something as simple as a faulty sender, I had a similar problem with my 300tdi.

waldershelf said:

This could be something as simple as a faulty sender, I had a similar problem with my 300tdi.

Click to expand...

Is there any way to check that ?

I was going to change the thermostat first but if that might be the problem it could be easier to change than the thermostat and another variable to remove

hi
what are your next steps to work on? Is there much work on the chassis and the bulkhead?

good luck with your project , hope seeing some more photos soon

Dr_evil said:

Is there any way to check that ?

I was going to change the thermostat first but if that might be the problem it could be easier to change than the thermostat and another variable to remove

Click to expand...

My problem showed itself when driving along at a steady speed, the temperature needle would be reading normal and then drop to zero in a couple seconds stay at zero for a short while and then return to normal, again taking a couple of seconds or less. I figured that nothing in the engine changes that quick so guessed it was an instrument fault, I started with the temp sender, easy and cheap to change and that cured my problem.

piston-return-spring said:

hi
what are your next steps to work on? Is there much work on the chassis and the bulkhead?

good luck with your project , hope seeing some more photos soon

Click to expand...

Thanks mate and no not much really compared to what there was

Well today;

I cut out a whole load of rust from the rear crossmember chassis area where they join

Removed the fuel tank for welding tomorrow

Cut out new plates from 3mm to fit

Took a wire brush on an angle grinder to the chassis in order to clean it up ready for painting and fitted both outriggers back on


So left to do this week is bulkhead and footwell repairs (all **** easy as we've got new pieces that just slot on and fit right, a couple more patches on the chassis, all small or easy ones now all the awkward ones are done basically.

Paint chassis and rear prop shaft then coat in wax oil and old sump oil both inside and out too if i get time

After all thats done its just the process of refitting the bodywork and tidying it up with new paint, wheel paint, new custom exhaust needs fitting, new wipers, sidesteps, roof lights, roll bar and bullbar

Most importantly fixing the cooling problem or getting the landy mechanic over to have a look at it seeing as he should be able to diagnose it on the spot if my thermostat change doesn't work

Oh and mounting the winch on the rear bumper, once all the above is done I'll be taking the old bastard down to landrover spares to get some new wiring, timing chain, electrics check (alternator etc) tune the carbs and then to the MOT centre to get


My goal is to have it all done by the end of next week and ready for pre MOT checks and servicing the following monday then straight to the MOT centre after


(probs missed off a few bits but theres an extensive list I'm powering through at a good speed)


Anyway I'll put up a couple more pics tonight and some more tomorrow hopefully if we get the body all done

Off to work on it, FFS it's early

Well today I found out the inside of the rear crossmember was rotten after taking a crowbar to it so thats another bit of welding to do. A lot of welding got done today though so it's all moving forward

On the plus side it means the chassis is solid now, next week I should have the front sorted out, I think I'm probably gonna be plating over the vents too as I cant be arsed fitting the old ones back in right now.
I can always do it at a later date but if I want fresh air I've got the rear window and I'll be installing a sunroof at some point too.

Stripped off the waxoil today and found a huge hole in the back so thats another one onto the list but I hammerited the rest of the chassis today and its hiding the welds pretty well

Need another pot though to cover the rest so I'm just gonna keep layering it up to hide all of the welding and then slap the new waxoil on top to make sure they're definitely invisible

Woooooop…….. new shocks have arrived


Also anyone got a spare alternator ? Mines missing and I just realised …….

Nice to see someone messing around with the 3.5 v8. seems a bit lonely with everyone else running diesel. exhaust sounds good. i was thinking of increasing the size on mine too