My new (old) Defender .. ;)

same as the one i had in mine paul...

will be having a good look over your's this weekend matey ..

same as these's

Yeah. I didn't have time to make a proper mount for the base. My seats had a very high front, just under the knees and the rear end needed lifting to compensate but I'd promised tc I'd be helping him with his workshop so didn't really have time, but when Juliet said will the backs alone fit .. well, they 'almost' fit, they're tight and secure, but one side plate had to be bent a little. When i do eventually sort it I'll probably use a spacer to take the flex out.

Don't look too close, it needs loads of work!! 'specially nearside bulkhead/door hinge pillar. I have all the parts but no time ..

Paul D said:

Yeah. I didn't have time to make a proper mount for the base. My seats had a very high front, just under the knees and the rear end needed lifting to compensate but I'd promised tc I'd be helping him with his workshop so didn't really have time, but when Juliet said will the backs alone fit .. well, they 'almost' fit, they're tight and secure, but one side plate had to be bent a little. When i do eventually sort it I'll probably use a spacer to take the flex out.

Don't look too close, it needs loads of work!! 'specially nearside bulkhead/door hinge pillar. I have all the parts but no time ..

Click to expand...

here mines no concours winner....

Paul D said:

Yeah. I didn't have time to make a proper mount for the base. My seats had a very high front, just under the knees and the rear end needed lifting to compensate but I'd promised tc I'd be helping him with his workshop so didn't really have time, but when Juliet said will the backs alone fit .. well, they 'almost' fit, they're tight and secure, but one side plate had to be bent a little. When i do eventually sort it I'll probably use a spacer to take the flex out.

Don't look too close, it needs loads of work!! 'specially nearside bulkhead/door hinge pillar. I have all the parts but no time ..

Click to expand...

You are a star man Paul, thankyou very much for all you help, couldnt have done it with out you

top-cat said:

You are a star man Paul, thankyou very much for all you help, couldnt have done it with out you

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No worries mate, glad to help.

Paul could you take a look at this for me mate as I know from previous thread of yours that you are the top winch man. Bloke asked £100 for this winch but I'm unsure mate:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f16/superwinch-ep-9-a-256124.html

Thanks

Keep doing little bits, added some skateboard decking grip tape to the treesliders, made the battery a bit more solid with M6 threaded bar and a bit of square tubing, Found a piece of carpet to fit over it's hole too, and screwed down the centre lid, again with a bit of carpeting on top.

Not your expensive shag pile though .. Oh no sir, this is the cheapest vilest carpet you don't want to walk on, 'orrible nylon stuff ... with the advantage that I have about a roll of it (left over from school) and when it gets wet (note the when, not if) it'll just pull out and hang to dry, indeed it simply doesn't hold water. Same stuff I used in the rear to cover the chequer plate and it's stopped a lot of rattles and noise already!

Removed the length of wire that was sticking in the bonnet release thing ... looks like it'd been there years and certainly explains why it had been getting hard to open and harder to shut!

Then sat and looked at it for a bit ..

Had some issues at LZ10, namely towing the caravan for <cough> miles on the motorway, hitting 50 sometimes but only 40 ish on hills and into the wind!

Came home, emptied everything, went for a drive and same thing! Usual thoughts, fuel, air, turbo, summat's bust. In fact the throttle cable adjuster had gone west, lost it's threads and loosened the cable so I wasn't getting full revs or anything like. Semi-fixed it yesterday with a small circlip, but it popped off again within a few miles, so today, about half an hour ago I loosened the adjuster completely, used Evo-Stik epoxy (araldite alternative) on the threads, wound it in so the cable was adjusted correctly, then added more epoxy above the adjuster to stop it potentially unwinding. It's already set to touch, but I'm gonna give it an hour or two before I try it out.

We've already ordered a new cable anyway but if this works, I'll use the new one, and keep this one in the spares 'just in case' ..

The cables seem to be poor quality. I don't want to buy a genuine one at over £70 but the Bearmach and Britpart ones are not quality items. Out of them, the Britpart is actually the better IMO. I had a similar problem to you with my last cable - it used to unwind itself. I adjusted it correctly and then used self amalgamating tape around the adjuster. Never moved again and was fine for several months up until the other end snapped

Yeah, I can't understand why they didn't just use a standard ferrule and lock-nut, be much simpler and way more reliable.

The other day one of my new +4" stainless braided brake pipes went pop whilst out. Found out it'd been rubbing on the tyre, so I've just replaced it .. 10 minute job, if that ..




This time I've bent the brake pipe plate just a little such that the pipe doesn't come out of the caliper facing directly backwards, but is angled away from the tyre, more towards the chassis, which will hopefully prevent it happening again. Still needs bleeding but in between rain showers and what feels like a biting cold wind, I can manage with a slightly soft pedal till it's dryer or warmer outside!

All's well that ends well ..

Something extra to check each time back from laning though ....

Blurdy ell Paul. Do you want a hand bleeding em?

top-cat said:

Blurdy ell Paul. Do you want a hand bleeding em?

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Nah, our lass is a dab hand at pressing the brake pedal now .. thanks anyway ..

Taken the +3" Very feckin' Heavy Duty springs off and replaced them with +2" Heavy duties .. looks and works so much better. Driving feels so much smoother, even empty, and a lot less bouncy! It even rocks and rolls when I get in it now, it was pretty solid before!! Might generate a bit more grip on the lanes now too ..

Changed Disc pads all round, they were all a bit before hitting the disc so rather than trying to eke them out I though better to replace now than having to remove the wheels again before the Welsh trip.

Will need to replace the A-frame and axle end trailing arm bushes soon, maybe even the A-frame ball joint too, getting a bit of a knock and definitely movement in the axle end. Similarly the front radius arms need bushes at the axle ends, but they've been like that for a while, just not had time to do them.

I have been debating changing my HD springs for normal ones but not sure. They are hard as hell, especially the back which don't move!

Hmm will wait see what you think re: grip

After swapping to the +2" HD springs ..



As it looked with +3" VHD springs ..



It now, to my mind, looks a lot less 'Tonka Toy' and more like a Landrover. Off out for a drive now, see if the suspension really is more supple ..

Maybe harder to see in the picture, but in the flesh it really looks a lot better, I think. Bit it all depends on the actual ride though. If it works better the springs stay, if it doesn't work better, the +3" go back on!!

Good update Paul! Let us know the outcome as I was thinking of some hd springs

The springs are staying!

Way, way better. I thought the longer Very Heavy Duty springs would be best with the winch and crap I carry, but nope, Heavy Duty suit it a lot better.

I can now easily feel the wayward bush in the rear, with the stiffer springs it clanked, but there was no feel to it.

So, full set of bushes on their way .. Landy standards methinks ..

Standard bushes for me anorl, Provided you can get them in, Struggled like feck last time