My First rebuild - 110 station wagon

Well, after much mental debating I decided against the galv door idea and started painting it. I reckon having them blasted would have cost £120+ and they're still full of ziebart so would have made a right mess when dipped, plus there's loads of weld which the galv sits on, the warping, cost of it etc.
Here's the n/s frame in zinc rich primer, ill chassis black the face before I stick the skin back on.

Discokids said:

Well, after much mental debating I decided against the galv door idea and started painting it. I reckon having them blasted would have cost £120+ and they're still full of ziebart so would have made a right mess when dipped, plus there's loads of weld which the galv sits on, the warping, cost of it etc.
Here's the n/s frame in zinc rich primer, ill chassis black the face before I stick the skin back on.

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If it's properly prepped and painted (which I've no doubt it will be) then it'll probably outlive you.

Here's the o/s rear door, probably the best of the set.



Cut out the seal strip, Ali in great condition despite no paint on it.


Cut the bottom of the frame out, question as always - how far to cut back?

Alibro said:

If it's properly prepped and painted (which I've no doubt it will be) then it'll probably outlive you.

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I'm hoping so, it's had a good rub down, good key for the paint on the bare steel. I'll fill it with dinitrol or something aswell, because painting inside it is obviously not possible.
As a test of time for the ziebart, where it's stuck it's done an excellent job, just needed to have been better applied all those years ago.

Here's this afternoons efforts, bottom section tacked in, I overlapped the section that goes up for a bit more strength.



Making the repair piece fit,

Tacking in another small bit,

A bit of a drainage hole,

Finished and linished;




Needs tarting up but all that can be done at the end. Next is to separate the top half from the bottom, repair both at the join then weld in a new lower seal panel.

Im truly impressed. My project is a 110 CSW 200tdi as well...but yours will be MUCH better refurbed mate, well done

David

Tidy work!

Very nice, indeed.

David g4yvm said:

Im truly impressed. My project is a 110 CSW 200tdi as well...but yours will be MUCH better refurbed mate, well done

David

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Thank you, are you writing a thread on here about yours?

200tdiRob said:

Tidy work!

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Cheers Rob, it is going better than expected

Al2O3 said:

Very nice, indeed.

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Cheers Al

How's the plastic coating on your doors holding up?

Discokids said:

How's the plastic coating on your doors holding up?

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Tip top so far, mate. I filled the frames with dinitrol at the time. (about a year ago) But, this summer I'm going to put more in. When it's been raining and you open your door and see the little water stream trickle out of the drain holes it makes you go 'hmmmmm', keep on top of the dinitrol
To be honest I thought I was being clever at the time, but hadn't read up enough about alternatives. They may turn out t o be fine for many years, but if I was doing it again I would have galvanised the frames.
Keep up the good work with yours and get lots of dinitrol in once painted.

Al2O3 said:

Tip top so far, mate. I filled the frames with dinitrol at the time. (about a year ago) But, this summer I'm going to put more in. When it's been raining and you open your door and see the little water stream trickle out of the drain holes it makes you go 'hmmmmm', keep on top of the dinitrol
To be honest I thought I was being clever at the time, but hadn't read up enough about alternatives. They may turn out t o be fine for many years, but if I was doing it again I would have galvanised the frames.
Keep up the good work with yours and get lots of dinitrol in once painted.

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.,

Discokids said:

Thank you, are you writing a thread on here about yours?

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Well probably. In fact, if people really are interested, then yes for sure. Oh go on then, I will.

david

We do like a rebuild thread on here. Just don't take as long as me to rebuild it lol

Well today I've separated the door, a brutal process but needs must - there's no way of effecting any decent repair without. This will keep me entertained for a few evenings.

Made a few Repairs last night, one more patch to make and this ones finished. Thinking perhaps I should have just bought four new ones ages ago! I'm going to treat these to all new felt and seals, and possibly glass if I can find any as mines scratched badly.

Ordered all the new seals Andy glass runners last week - not bad at £110.
Just got round one of the wiring puzzle - battery, earths, engine and chassis loom parts. No multi block connectors as yet because I've already got loads just need to sort through them and possibly buy new terminals etc. Then next (once the doors are back on) will be the behind dash wiring followed by the front end (lights horn etc) in the future. This little lot has done me for the month now - electrical cost is around £145 so far.

Eexciting times ahead...well done for progress so far.

It's been a lovely weekend and spent lots of time with the kids, in return for their help with a few fiddly jobs. My youngest son helped me get this Lot through the chassis. First step was thread a length of 6mm mdpe tubing through, rear to front. We then gaffa-taped the convoluted tube (16.5/21mm) to this and pulled that through. Then we sent the 6mm back through this and pulled through all the cables in one go. All except the reverse light cable! Pulled back out and back in again, with 4 spares - one is a nice 3mm 33a in brown and purple for any future accessories (thinking fridge here) and the other is a 4mm black which will take all the rear earths back to the battery or the block to avoid the oh-so-common problems of Landy lights doing what they like. I've also threaded the purple standard issue 3mm for the trailer socket in some extra sleeving to be on the safe side.

Exit at the rear end:

Entering at the front:


With that done for now, me and my daughter made these. She enjoyed watching the shrink wrap magically shrivel up, and crimping the terminals in the vice using our home made dies. Outside to inside are;
Battery + to starter 300a
Battery - to starter 300a
Alternator to starter 170a
Chassis to block 110a
Block to starter 110a


Looking for ideas for termination of the rear loom if either of you have any ideas. Obviously some cables need only go to the right, some only to the left, some to both. I considered an adapt box at the very rear of the wheel arch but obviously vulnerable to water and road grime, not sold on teeing out of the tube in that area either, as the tape won't last and heat shrink y-pieces are expensive and not readily available, so current favourite solution is to take the entire harness up into the rh tub and re-distribute cables from there. Not too bothered about keeping too standard a finish. Something like this, so that the only thing outside the body is sealed convoluted tube with the only open end being at the tank sender unit.

Not done much the last few weeks, been away over Easter so missed a week there. This is the latest on the rear harness. All cables in the tube, enter through the right hand hole (left in this pic) with a grommet keeping it secure. The bunch of wires going up at the left are for the rear wiper and HRW, the coil of wires bottom left are all the Spares. The bunch of wires in the top middle are the r/h lights, the bunch of blacks are quite obviously earths with one coming from the front/battery, one going to the left and one going to the lights. I will run another from this earth point into the rear door in the future. The plug is for the trailer socket, which again contains a nice chunky earth that will go to the same place as the rest.

And here is the trailer socket loom, I put in the extra cable for the reverse lights, just in case.

Nice work. Properly done wiring is a big benefit in years to follow.