Mud terrains - BFG or Cooper SST Pro

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paulb110driving

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Hampshire
Hello all

After some advice please. Looking to fit either BFG mud terrains or Cooper SST pros on my defender 110. It spends 90% off road at local farms in all weathers and driving conditions. The spec on the SST looks good and cheaper too.

Not worried about road noise or fuel economy, more concerned with off road performance / grip as have been caught a few times now on the std fit AT tyres, which seem to clog and lose traction.

Any feedback please before I invest the hard earned. Thank you.
 
Personally not too keen on the BFG's. Don't get me wrong, they look nice. But they are designed to work on the North American continent. Which is very different terrain to most of the UK. They are 'ok'. But not nearly as affective off road as you think they should be.

I've not tried the latest SST. It looks nice, but suspect it might be similar. The previous version was more AT in my opinion, than true mud plugger. Although they did work quite well in the snow due to the sipes.

If it's off road use and mud, tbh I'd say look at some remould. The copies of the Yeolander MT tread work very well in the UK on most terrains and are surprisingly good on road for such an off road biased tyre.

Lots of companies make versions of them. Fedima Extreme, Extreme Evo or Partner. They look like this:

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Personally not too keen on the BFG's. Don't get me wrong, they look nice. But they are designed to work on the North American continent. Which is very different terrain to most of the UK. They are 'ok'. But not nearly as affective off road as you think they should be.

I've not tried the latest SST. It looks nice, but suspect it might be similar. The previous version was more AT in my opinion, than true mud plugger. Although they did work quite well in the snow due to the sipes.
Are these American made tyres from a part of America with UK Terrain ?

If it's off road use and mud, tbh I'd say look at some remould. ( Why would a remould be better than a Virgin Tyre ? They ar OK BUT ask any tyre fitter and they will confirm thy can be a pig to balance and are not all the same weight ) The copies of the Yeolander MT tread work very well in the UK on most terrains and are surprisingly good on road for such an off road biased tyre.


Lots of companies make versions of them. Fedima Extreme, Extreme Evo or Partner. They look like this:

listagem311.png
 
( Why would a remould be better than a Virgin Tyre ? They ar OK BUT ask any tyre fitter and they will confirm thy can be a pig to balance and are not all the same weight )/QUOTE]
For the most part, you can buy much more aggressive tread patterns as remoulds. There is a somewhat limited choice of aggressive off road tyres when looking at new tyres.

And sorry, I don't think much of your tyre fitter if that's their opinion on remoulds. I have run and have access to loads. And by and large they have all been perfectly fine. The few aggressive new tyres you can get, can have just as many issues being balanced.
 
Very aggressive tyres lose knobbles and unbalance themselves in an instant. The greater overall mass of the tyre compensates.
Tyre balance only really matters at speed on even terrain anyway. At low speed no effect will be felt, and terrain plays a far greater role in comfort and component wear.
 
Because like he said it will spend 90% of its time off road and I have had many tyres and find the insa turbo special tracks to be the best.
They are over aggressive, they tear up the terrain too easily, they break diffs and axles, also likely to cause more rubbing issues.

Unless you are competing in off road competitions, they are an absurd tyre to choose. It would be like fitting slicks to your road car... because you only ever drive on tarmac :rolleyes:
 
Each to there own I've had them on mine for 5 years and haven't broken a diff or shaft so depends on how you drive with any tyre I suppose especially if you just gun it everywhere.
 
They are over aggressive, they tear up the terrain too easily, they break diffs and axles, also likely to cause more rubbing issues.

Unless you are competing in off road competitions, they are an absurd tyre to choose. It would be like fitting slicks to your road car... because you only ever drive on tarmac :rolleyes:
Sorry but you are talking Rubbish ! :p Not just this quote but your other tyre posts too
 
Yes my Brother in Law owns JCS Wheels and Tyres. I try to help in my spare time, I probably help fit 4+ sets of tyres per evening and up to 10 on a weekend day.
How many sets of 4x4 tyres do you fit a day ? :)
 
Hi all, on the theme of off road tyres I would like to put some on my series 3 109, she has stock wheels at the moment 16 inch rims! Any suggestions? Thanks
 

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Yes my Brother in Law owns JCS Wheels and Tyres. I try to help in my spare time, I probably help fit 4+ sets of tyres per evening and up to 10 on a weekend day.
How many sets of 4x4 tyres do you fit a day ? :)
Fitting them is not driving them or using them off road..... a somewhat critical distinction.

I stand by what I say.
 
Hi all, on the theme of off road tyres I would like to put some on my series 3 109, she has stock wheels at the moment 16 inch rims! Any suggestions? Thanks
Honestly, you are probably better off staring a separate thread.

However I'll do my best at an answer.

1. Do you want just tyres, or rims also?

2. What is your intended use for the tyres?

3. The stock Series rims are quite narrow, I forget if they are 5 or 5.5j wide. Technically this limits some choices. If you look at the tyre specs from different companies, none will recommend a 235/85R16 for this narrow a rim. Although it is a size that is often recommended on forums, as it is a standard size for Defenders. However Defenders use latter wider 6.0j rims.

It would be unlikely, but should you be in an accident, and if spotted, could cause an issue insurance wise.

That said, a 7.50 x 16 is perfectly fine for a Series and was standard fitment tyre. The trouble is, many remould 7.50 x 16's are just re-stamped 235/85R16's. So there probably isn't an answer on how legal or correct it is to fit them. A 235/85R16 is a lot wider than a proper 7.50, although they are usually similar height.

4. The next issues on a Series are two fold. With the stock rims being inset a lot, bigger and/or wider tyres will tend to rub on the leaf springs at full lock and will reduce your turning circle. Which is probably already not very good in a LWB. An option is to fit spacers or just rims with a different offset that moves the rims outwards and a wider track. The issue here is, it doesn't take much to end up with the wheels sticking outside the arches. This is very easy if you also go to a wider rim and tyre. In the UK this is illegal, so not advisable. And wheels sticking out of the arches will spray a lot more dirt and mud up the sides of the vehicle, which can be a PITA.

5. Standard Series sizes are IIRC 6.00 x 16, 6.50 x 16, 7.00 x 16 and 7.50 x 16. However all are hard to get these days, although there is still a reasonable choice of 7.50 x 16's (accepting some are actually 235/85's...).

A 205/80R16 is a god metric alternative for the smaller, shorter tyres. Or maybe even a 215/80. But most people tend to want to go for larger tyres.


6. Common tyres sizes for Defenders and Series.

235/85R16 -- standard Defender fitment
7.50 x 16 -- standard fitment
265/75R16 -- standard Defender fitment (later models). Wider than a 235 and similar height
31.10.50R15 -- US standard fitment (I think) for some models


7. Taller tyres will give you more ground clearance and IMO usually look better on a Land Rover. They will also reduce cruising rpm slightly. But might blunt acceleration a little. They can increase the risk of axle or gearbox breakages and often reduce your turning circle.

8. Fatter tyres look cool, but in reality often perform less well off road in the UK. Although it will depend on the terrain in question. And will usually cause more resistance on the road, so can affect mpg, while making the steering heavier. Plus the fact they are more likely to stick out of the arches and cause more rubbing on full lock with even less lock.

You can fit wheel arch spats to cover the wheels if you plan to go this route.

9. Rim width, along with offset and tyre width will have an affect on where the tyre sits and how much it bulges. If you are wanting to keep in the Series profile without wheel arch extensions, then I'd recommend a 6 or 7j rim. Wider is likely to be more difficult to keep it all under the bodywork and retain steering lock. Although you might be able to get away with an 8j rim.

10. Making the track wider, either by new offset rims or wheel spacers will affect the scrub radius and induce more bump steer. It's not overly bad, but know that moving the wheels outwards will solve some issue, but comes with it's own negatives. IMO I would opt for new rims over wheel spacers at this stage.

11. Rims. There are lots of options. The easiest to buy are steel 8 spoke or modular rims, they come in various widths and offsets and either 15 or 16" sizes and different colours.

If you want to keep it more Land Rover looking. You could opt for some Defender standard steel rims, but it wouldn't be much of an upgrade. But would allow legal use of 235/85R16's. And likely a cheap option. 130 or One Ton/1 Ton rims look like Land Rover rims but are deeper dish. Somewhat rare and more money. But quite a nice option to keep it Land Rover looking. Likewise classic Range Rover rostyle can be used. There are also something called Series 2b rims (from a Forward Control Land Rover). They look like the 130 rims, but even deeper dish. But they are very rare and very expensive, so I wouldn't worry about them if it was me.

12. On the subject of rims. Make sure you know the difference between a tubed rim and a tubeless one. It's not really about the tyres, it's about the rims. Older LR rims are mostly tubed. So even if you run modern tyres, you'll still need tubes. Tubeless rims have an extra bulge in the rim beam area (only visible without tyres fitted). This is to retain the tyre bead. Tubed rims don't have it, so the edge of the tyre could slide to the middle of the rim and rapidly deflate. This could happen while driving down the road or cornering, so potentially very dangerous.

13. Less common sizes.

9.00 x 16 -- these are BIG. Land Rover fitted them to the 109 One Ton model. But it also had modified suspension lift to make them fit properly. These will reduce turning circle, but can look very good. But very limited choice and often hugely expensive. They also vary massively in size from make to make.

255/85R16 -- a nice modern tyre size, available in a lot of tread patterns. They are just over 33" tall and normally 1-2"+ taller than a 7.50 x 16 and a tad wider than a 235. They should fit mostly straight on, but might rub at full articulation, as well as the usual steering lock and keeping them under the bodywork issues you may encounter.

33.9.50R15 or 16 -- usually only found on very aggressive off road tyres. But there are some about. However some fall short of the claimed 33" height and are often very wide looking for a 9.50

14. There are of course lots of other options if you want something more extreme. But will likely require more effort on your part. Just consider intended use and affect on gearing and how much power you have.

15. Tread pattern. There really are loads. Don't discount remoulds, there are a lot of very good ones, especially if you want something with a mud terrain pattern, and for off road use. But many can be perfectly acceptable on road too. If you want good wet road performance, combined with snow/ice driving. Then look for tyres with sipes. A mild MT might make a better all around tyre than a lot of AT's. Or if you want to keep it period looking, stick to older tread patterns.
 
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