Disco 2 MOT aftermath :-(((((((((

Right had my MOT today and :-( went very poorly :-(
Please help!!!

Right first he found on the drivers side front wheel that the ball joints are ****ed !!! (it that a big job to fix????????)

But then the chassis!!!! he went round the chassis with a small hammer/mallet thing,did not hit it hard so was happy with the test

all was good bit of surface rust but that was all ,knock knock knock all healthy then a big ****ing thud!!!!

oh my god a rusty hole but where it is is a **** to repair or looks it

can any one help i know they go on back end but this is passangers shock just near the air bag ,is this common and how hard is it to repair and can you get a repair panel for there???? i can weld myself so thats not a problem

heres a few pics of the holes he found :-(







as you can see its not good ,i have looked and cant seem to find a repair section for this place

Hi Griff,

You Need a dezent welder And someone with a bit of knowledge. As far as I know welding a chassis is legal in gémany but they want to see if the work is done properly.

For the ballpoint, is no big deal with the right tool. Try to find a kit for the Dana 44 axle. Ball joints removal tool. It took one whole day in the shed at the first attempt two weeks ago it took 2 hours for one side. Much easier on a lift but possible without.

The ball joints removal tool was from eBay and sent to me from Germany. Price about 100€ and I use it a lot for all kinds of ball joints.

I hope you find everything for the repairs.

In meiner Sprache:

Wenn Du schweißen kannst ist alles machbar. Reparaturbleche braucht man nicht, ich habe 2mm blech besorgt und mit der Flex zugeschnitten.
Die Traggelenk mit dem Werkzeug auf Spannung bringen und dann mit dem Hammer lösen. Meistens genügt ein Schlag und das Gelenk rutsch ein paar Millimeter . Dann wieder auf Spannung und so fort.
Solltest Du das Werkzeug kaufen schmieren die Spindel gut mit Fett oder anderem Gleitmittel ein und verwende nur Handwerkszeug um die Spindel zu drehen. Mit dem Schlagschrauber machst du alles kaputt.

Lg Markus

thanks for the reply
ive just moved back to the uk now and the mot guy said he would be happy if the chassis was repaired ,he thinks its repairable,
Welding the plate/repair panel on is not a problem my welding will be plenty good enough for that ,its if i cant get a panel ,making a plate is easy but when it comes to fabrication of panels i have no benders etc so thats the bit i may struggle with if no panels are out there for this part of the chassis

There is a replacement rear chassis available via Britpart I think. They aren't always the easiest to fit though try this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DISCOVERY...:Discovery|Plat_Gen:MK+II&hash=item43dcc207fe

i don't think that will work ?
the part thats gone on mine is in-between the air sup and the shock

iso if im looking at the repair panel in the above link i don't think it has that part on it ???
or am i looking at it wrong

The Chassis is not very thick,

I`d cut the Airbag support out and replace the rotten parts with proper material.
Then weld the support back on or find a replacement.

You are really lucky to live in a country where chassis repairs are legal. here in Austria that is a big problem, so you have to hide the welding.

does any where do a panel to fit here? (see pic below) even if its only the airbag mount bracket,that way i can cut the old one off,then repair the area behind and around it before rewelding the new bracket on

Not to my knowledge......

if not what can i do ????
find a old disco and if that part on it is ok cut it off and reweld it on mine???
or do you think anywhere could refab the part if i gave them the old one?

If the airbag mount is the same as a standard spring mount (i think they are) then you can buy them for fenders and disco 1s

If the springs are the same diameter as a 90 then i see no reason why you couldnt use and modify a 90 rear spring mount to fit ?

90s and 110s have different size rear springs so surely one will be the right size

my D1 was rotten in the same place and i just plated it

griff2 said:

does any where do a panel to fit here? (see pic below) even if its only the airbag mount bracket,that way i can cut the old one off,then repair the area behind and around it before rewelding the new bracket on

Click to expand...

Someone must do http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rove...204?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p204767

Well i won the above part on ebay :0 but after taking the car apart to get to the holes i don't think i need it (as the mount its self is solid )BUT it fits both sides so i will defo keep it just in case lol,any way heres a better look at the holes around the shock mount and behind the air suspension mount


as you can see they defo need fixing lol,
under the shock mount

all cleaned up and solid metal ,just need to plate it now


ive made two templates up for the holes ,just need to cut them in steel now

I thought about just plating over the holes but going to chop the rot out of the chassis and make my new plates to size to fill the holes and seam weld back in so after all do should be as good and strong as new

I only have 2mm steel do you all think that will be ok or do i need to get thicker?

I'm using 2mm to slowly repair my d1 chassis.......don't know how thick d2 is, but 2mm has got to be better than a big hole !!

and keep piccys coming !!!

2mm plate will be fine, like Chros said above, it's gotta be better than the hole that's there

well had a hr to play today (wife made me do shopping and diy before i could play lol)
anyway thought i would tackle the hole under the air suspension first
first things first get the rot all gone!!!


now cut some steel and try and make a plate to fit
got the approximate shape

was quite happy it fitted lol

drilled three holes in the plate so could plug weld the new plate to the inner chassis ,to hold it while i seam welded it in place

to be honest i was pritty ****ed off as i norm weld very good but because of space in the garage and not being able to clean the joining metal as good as i would normal the welds dont look the best ,bust once ground down a little,some seal sealant and paint im sure it will look better and of course ive tried the hammer test and its def solid now lol (thats all that matters)

as you can see the welding looks poooooooo but its strong
(in the end i found and used 3mm steel plate)

gave the new panel a quick grind, next when i get some i will run some seam sealant over the weld then paint the new panel, wish i had a big ramp so could get it in the air so i could paint the entire chassis as it def needs it!!


(the above pic is a vid,click on it and it should play)

made and welded the other panel in ,again not the best looking weld but its strong and has def repaired the hole and is stronger/thick now than before

it was very hard to get the welder in there because of room
and ive found another small area i may as well repair while here as its def nearly gone so will fix that while its all in pieces lol

well last little plate welded in above shock mount,all painted with por15 chassis paint ,JOB DONE !!!!
just need to put susprnsion back on ,i think the mot guy should be happy with it,im sure time will tell lol

all done ,back together and out of the garage
the air suspension is all working correctly so well happy

next to do the front drivers upper and lower ball joints ,swop a number plate bulb and then the MOT retest
fingers crossed he happy with the chassis repairs

WELL finished work early ,and when i got home my new things had arrived
my new ball joints and splitting tools

so let the fun begin lmfao NOT
got this far then i had to stop because the neighbours have younge kids (shame i had only been out there a hr)
as you can see not to bad


had to stop like i said because could not make noise ,but i think the top ball joint has popped after a few hits ,but the lower may be a ****

but do i need to remove this nut from it????

or is that just the casting as im sure the new ball joint does not have this nut!!!!!! its a 32mm

well had a 4 hr party with the ball joints today but all seems ok in the end lol
top ball joint broke on way out and was a total ball breaker but got it in the end ,learnt from my mistake and got the gas out to heat while i tried to push it out

at last

bottom one went in quite easy but top one was a **** because of the angle the tool did not sit correct ,but got there in the end

put the knuckle back on ,and turning it is quite stiff ,hope thats right???

will put everything else back together tomorrow .then prob fit my new front disks seeing one is all ready off lol