more vcu confusion

Jonnytd4 said:

Yep surely a LR specialist will know, maybe we should get all our freelanders together and all do the torque test using the same tools, that would take the differences in the test away, even though we still wouldn't know what is good or not ha ha

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I'm inclined to agree. One problem is you never have a good reference as an owner cos you only ever drive yours! If you drove a good one then a bad one it'd be pretty obvious. But most don't get that opportunity, which is why people have tried to develop a basic test to give an indication of its condition! I'd hope a lr specialist could identify a problem with the vcu easily too? But........

Would a failing vcu show any other tell tale signs? I think what Iam going to do is, the torque test once a month, log my results see if it gets harder to turn, the grass test am I right in thinking it should spin the front wheels slightly before rear traction kicks in? As it definately does that

As far as I know (someone correct me if I'm wrong ) in normal on road driving conditions 80 percent of the drive goes to the front wheels and the rest to the rear, so the front wheels will spin on grass before the VCU kicks in (starts to lock up). This slipping should be controlled by the traction control if fitted. Bell (who I know have a vested interest) offer considerable advice on their website. Another piece of advice is that later models suffer less with VCU failure due to a change in the front to back gearing, Bell claim this is incorrect. I still think the best option is to change ASAP if your mileage is over 70,000 and you're running on the original VCU.

Mines on 90 k don't know if it's the original but it's got full LR sh, best gets to changing then, where is the best/cheapest place to get one?

Bell seems to be the place. I'll be joining you shortly

Is there a guide on changing them anywhere?

One on here somewhere!

Have searched, but off I go again

Jonnytd4 said:

Have searched, but off I go again

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Possibly done by hippo? Not sure if that helps

Jonnytd4 said:

Mines on 90 k don't know if it's the original but it's got full LR sh, best gets to changing then, where is the best/cheapest place to get one?

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Bell engineering were the company I and many other members have used, make sure you buy only genuine mounting bearings or you'll be changing them again in a few months. Be very careful if you use some other suppliers (search on here) as you can buy a load of rubbish. LR dealers will not admit that there are problems with premature VCU failure.

Yeh was going through their site cheers, Iam away at the mo but I jacked the back up, and I can slowly turn the wheel with my brace. Not a test but at least it ain't seized, it does spin all 4 wheels on grass, also says on their site that I shouldn't get resistance on full lock but I do!

Jonnytd4 said:

Yeh was going through their site cheers, Iam away at the mo but I jacked the back up, and I can slowly turn the wheel with my brace. Not a test but at least it ain't seized, it does spin all 4 wheels on grass, also says on their site that I shouldn't get resistance on full lock but I do!

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I get **** loads but not all the time. Plus if you pull onto gravel it frees up completely when you go back on Tarmac then gets worse again. It also doesn't want to pull away on a lock! It's not like it all the time though. Which has lead me to the conclusion that it's about FUBAR'd

Isn't a simple test to take it for a five mile run then park up, get underneath and feel how hot it is?

markyzs180 said:

Isn't a simple test to take it for a five mile run then park up, get underneath and feel how hot it is?

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No.

read the FAQ.

Because of the gearing difference they always generate some heat! The problem is you have no reference. If you were to do it back to back with a known good one. Then you'd most likely be able to tell but most people have no idea how much heat one should generate! It's very rare they actually seize apparently, they just get very stiff so you're unlikely to find a cold one ie seized solid

Diesel Do said:

Because of the gearing difference they always generate some heat! The problem is you have no reference. If you were to do it back to back with a known good one. Then you'd most likely be able to tell but most people have no idea how much heat one should generate! It's very rare they actually seize apparently, they just get very stiff so you're unlikely to find a cold one ie seized solid

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read the FAQ. its operating temp is about 100degC

Diesel Do said:

Because of the gearing difference they always generate some heat! The problem is you have no reference. If you were to do it back to back with a known good one. Then you'd most likely be able to tell but most people have no idea how much heat one should generate! It's very rare they actually seize apparently, they just get very stiff so you're unlikely to find a cold one ie seized solid

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its quite common on rr that they seize solid

and on Hippoos, James, but they also fail by just being very stiff and, occasionally by slipping and allowing no drive through them.

jamesmartin said:

its quite common on rr that they seize solid

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I know! I guess it's the gearing difference that really screws em! They probably break something before they get chance!

I'm going on bell info ref the seizing!