More Air Suspension problems

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Tired Old Girl

New Member
Posts
21
Location
Cornwall
Hi

I'm new to his game, but my old girl has blown her fron n/s boot. Any quick tips for replacement. I've got a new one off ebay and looks fine but it could all go wrong so quickly when I decide to fit. Donen't sem to be held on by much, should I jack it right up and then try to prise it out of is there a knack ? any guidance gratefully received. I feel however this is only going to be the beginning of my problems. Still more of that after, if I can, fit the boot.:mad:
 
Can anyone "print screen" the RAVE page on this for this guy? I'm missing RAVE since my PC rebuild. The pic on that page pretty much covers it without the need for text!

N/S shouldn't take you more than 15 mins! Well, probably 30 on your first go.

You can get to the top of the N/S spring from above so avoid removing the wheel lining. Get two long flat screwdrivers at the ready.

First remove the air hose by pressing the brass collet and pulling out the plastic air hose. If the spring has residual pressure, pull the hose very slowly and it will slowly let the pressure out. Be aware that the corner will drop if there is any pressure, so be careful! Make sure you keep this hose clean.

On the top of the spring are two spring clips. You can remove these with a long flat screwdriver, but make sure you see where they go if they flick off!

Jack up the *axle* enough to remove the wheel, but not too high. Place in an axle stand to be safe, and also so you can re-use the jack if you do not have two.

Remove wheel

Now the main problem might be that the locating pin in the bottom has siezed in place. Around the back of the spring is a bolt, remove this bolt an you should feel the pin - try pulling it in the direction of the diff. It will either slip right out, or it won't move at all! If it doesn't move, get a crowbar and hammer it inbetween the spring piston and the axle and lean hard! It should snap relatively easily, but if not, don't be afraid to give it a good bash! The only problem if you have to break it is that you will either have to have ordered a new pin in adance from LR (about £1 something) or fabricate a new one - which is what I did!

Once this pin is removed, jack up the chassis (there is a flat point behind the drivers wheel about in line with where your feet go that is convenient. Jack it up to about where "high" setting would be. If using the LR jack with the curvey top, I would suggest placing a piece of heafty wood between the chassis and the jack. I used a trolley jack which is much more suitable.

You should then be able to 'bend' the spring out of where it is located.

Insert new spring.

Insert retaining pin

Attach the two clips at the top

Push home the air hose.

Do NOT NOT lower the vehicle onto a deflated spring.

Start the car and pray that it fills the spring!

If it doesn't, try messing with the suspension settings (low-high etc.) if that doesn't work, try lowering the chassis a little and trying again. Mine was a right pain, in the end I gave up trying, turned the engine off, restarted and it inflated straight away!

Remove chassis jack/stands, remove axle jack/stands - you're done!

Now remember what you've done because you'll probably be doing the O/S soon enough!

Matt
 
Excellent Matt, thanks. Took a little longer than 30 minutes for my "first time" but got there in the end. Locking pin didn't want to come out at all and ended up being sheared off but never mind a handy bit of fencing wire came to the rescue to refit. Levelled up nicely now for a day or two. Regards

Ian (Tired Old Girl's loving owner)
 
Great - glad you got it sorted. Fence wire - superb stuff, that's what I used as well! The drivers side is a bit more of a pain. Personally I removed the wheel liner, but apparently you can 'bend' it back to get to the top clips!

Normally if one of the springs has gone, the others are not far behind. Island 4x4 are a good place to get springs (they sell them on eBay) for £62.50 last time I checked.

Mat
 
Indeed Matt, that's where mine came from. What's the score on a "low ratio" that won't engage. Been putting up with this for nearly 12 months now. Bought a new motor and put it on the other day but still no joy. Have been underneath with an electirc meter but seems to be no power getting down there at all. I've heard a rumour that there's a collection of relays behind the glove box. Is this a good place to start ?

Regards

Ian
 
Ian,

Could be a few things, inc. ECU :( Have you checked the Tx box fuse / relays in the box around the fuses in the engine compartment?

Putting a fuse into socket 11 (I think 11?) (one of the ones under the driver seat) will put the Trans box into neutral. That's a good way to see if power is getting to the motor. The procedure is detailed in the owners manual.

Invest in RAVE (get them from eBay for a few quid, or download from some places). That has full tech. documentation on the workings of every aspect of the P38 (amongst others) and is well worth the money. Also has full electrionic circuit diagrams so you can follow the circuit through.

Matt
 
Cheers Matt, I'll check the neutral bit tomorrow. Tried a download of a manual on Saturday but it didn't work so I'll search for RAVE.

Cheers

Ian
 
Back
Top