Mondo mode =2wd / 4wd

LR1796 said:

Sorry loatmead, when you say rear prop, are you referring to the full prop or just the latter part between bearing and rear diff.

I'm all ears if you can separate the UJ whilst under the vehicle

They are difficult enough when out on the bench.

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Did we get an answer to this?? I'm tempted to remove, but dont fancy dropping the whole lot off. (ie front prop VCU etc)

G13SJC said:

Did we get an answer to this?? I'm tempted to remove, but dont fancy dropping the whole lot off. (ie front prop VCU etc)

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Hi G13

I was curious when loatmead mentioned 'rear prop'

I think he meant the whole thing???

The reason I was interested was for handiness of carrying the prop around if I decided to go 4wd at the beach, green laning etc then fly down the motorway in 2wd on the way home.

The prop is easy enough to remove but I have to place the whole thing on the roof rack. It looks like a weapon of mass destruction when stationed on the roof, turns a few heads.
If a smaller part of the prop could be disconnected with ease then it would slot nicely into the glovebox.... well boot will do fine

Even better would be this mod to cure all problems.

your all going front wheel drive i assume. if i was going to loose the 4wd i'd rather have the drive at the rear, so i'd have to somehow lock the Viscus joint, or replace it with a small prop shaft.

is ifs that doing to shag the IDR

Universally_Challenged said:

your all going front wheel drive i assume. if i was going to loose the 4wd i'd rather have the drive at the rear, so i'd have to somehow lock the Viscus joint, or replace it with a small prop shaft.

is ifs that doing to shag the IDR

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1) how would yu remove drive to the front.
2) locking the VCU wud blow up the drive train.
3) its designed as a frint wheel drive vehicle.
4) it will shag most of the drive train and rear tyres.

Quick question.

Is Removal of the Viscous Coupling and fwd & aft Propshafts an MOT Failure?

No.

except in northern ireland, where it is a failure

wigleytuff said:

except in northern ireland, where it is a failure

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Well remembered Wigleytuff, saves me chipping in that piece of info.

MOT centres in NI are government regulated

Northern Irelander said:

Well remembered Wigleytuff, saves me chipping in that piece of info.

MOT centres in NI are government regulated

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and the ones on the mainland int?

slob said:

and the ones on the mainland int?

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You wont find back street garages doing MOT's as you would have in the mainland.

All MOt's in N.I. are carried out by an official testing agency

juzz doin the work - eh NI?

Can anyone get cheap car window stickers?

Im in Mondo Mode, saving the planet etc

Mondo gets copyright, even though he only went virtual mondo mode

Summat like this?

er is thet yer silly hat int sea flops?

nope - mine wuz black - and to be onist, Minge - if it were - it wud be an imorovement.

hows yo tratter?

Northern Irelander said:

Hi G13

I was curious when loatmead mentioned 'rear prop'

I think he meant the whole thing???

The reason I was interested was for handiness of carrying the prop around if I decided to go 4wd at the beach, green laning etc then fly down the motorway in 2wd on the way home.

The prop is easy enough to remove but I have to place the whole thing on the roof rack. It looks like a weapon of mass destruction when stationed on the roof, turns a few heads.
If a smaller part of the prop could be disconnected with ease then it would slot nicely into the glovebox.... well boot will do fine

Even better would be this mod to cure all problems.

Click to expand...

having just come from under my FL i can confirm around 30 mins to remove the rear prop - vcu and front prop still in place

1 - jack up 1 side of car clearing both wheels from ground

2 - use axle stands - you don't wanna get squashed

3 - remove 4 bolts from rear flange at differential and allow prop to sit lower than the differential.

4 - support rear prop - do not let it fully drop or you will damage the UJ

5 - loosen bolt at front of prop where it bolts to the vcu and collect the U shaped spacer

6 - using a suitable drift ( a small chisel is ok) knock in between UJ and bolt head - when drift passes through remove and undo bolt a couple of turns, keep doing this until bolt can be removed - prop should now be able to be removed.

and thats it - its in the haynes manual too

scuse me for being fick but what are the advantages of going mondo?

less tyre wear, longer vcu life, longer IRD life, better acceleration, better fuel consumption.

bad points - no longer 4wd.

Brill, i`m under the buggar on Saturday, cheers

Dazlander said:

having just come from under my FL i can confirm around 30 mins to remove the rear prop - vcu and front prop still in place

1 - jack up 1 side of car clearing both wheels from ground

2 - use axle stands - you don't wanna get squashed

3 - remove 4 bolts from rear flange at differential and allow prop to sit lower than the differential.

4 - support rear prop - do not let it fully drop or you will damage the UJ

5 - loosen bolt at front of prop where it bolts to the vcu and collect the U shaped spacer

6 - using a suitable drift ( a small chisel is ok) knock in between UJ and bolt head - when drift passes through remove and undo bolt a couple of turns, keep doing this until bolt can be removed - prop should now be able to be removed.

and thats it - its in the haynes manual too

Click to expand...

Thanks for posting - this sounds like a quicker fix as opposed to removing the whole lot.

Regards,

Steve