Modular wheels - 2 questions

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mikerajjers

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,467
Location
Bedford UK or Trnava SK
Hi all,

I've had my modular wheels fitted today...see pics

https://www.flickr.com/photos/124023834@N07/14485444507/in/photostream/

and

https://www.flickr.com/photos/124023834@N07/14485233340/in/photostream/

I've got two questions though relating to the hub...detailed pic here https://www.flickr.com/photos/124023834@N07/14485442557/in/photostream/

1. does it matter that there is a 1-2mm gap between the wheel and the hub? All alloys i've ever had fitted snug (or came with a plastic ring). The guy at the tyre shop said it should fit snug, however, the modulars I bought were marked as specifically for a D2 (from paddock).

2. does the centre hub need some for of covering? I've trawled the internet and haven't come across any type of part. The pic on paddock's site also shows a D2 where they don't seem covered.

Thanks in advance for your help
 
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Looks like those modulars don't have provision for a centre cap to cover the hub, unless there's some kind of after market one which snaps over the wheel nuts?

As for the clearance - the nuts and studs provide the centreing for the wheel, or should do.
 
modulars are not usually a tight fit to the hub , none of mine have been on disco1/defenders

I don't think you have or need any kind of cover on them

as difflock says the wheel nuts will auto centre the wheel on the hub
 
1) No it doesn't matter as long as you have the nuts designed for steels fitted -> part no ANR4851

2) No it doesnt need covering, but there's a cover designed to fit only when the above nuts are used (they have a bevel it clips to) -> part no DTC100810

PS, if you do fit the covers, DO NOT use alloy cleaner on the wheels, it will turn them grey/white.
 
Yes it does matter. Even though the correct wheel nuts will do most of the centreing if they are installed correctly; you need to get some spigot rings that take up the difference between the outer diameter of the hub spigot and the inner diameter of the Modular wheel centre hole.

If you don't do this there is a good chance that your wheels will be out of true. This applies particularly if you have fitted larger than std. tyres.


Cheers
Dave
 
hey guys,
first of all, I'd like to know the manufacturer of the modular rims in 1st post?

then, I have some issues with Terrafirma Modular Wheels for D2.

Here are some photos: 20161211_231753.jpg 20161211_231811.jpg 20161211_231846.jpg 20161211_231923.jpg
As you can see, I have Terrafirma wheels, and genuine STEEL nuts. But the Taper of the nut will not come into the special holes of the rims. Do I have to enlarge the holes in wheels?
Could anyone tell me the exact measures of the rim holes?
 
hey guys,
first of all, I'd like to know the manufacturer of the modular rims in 1st post?

then, I have some issues with Terrafirma Modular Wheels for D2.

Here are some photos:View attachment 112794 View attachment 112795 View attachment 112796 View attachment 112797
As you can see, I have Terrafirma wheels, and genuine STEEL nuts. But the Taper of the nut will not come into the special holes of the rims. Do I have to enlarge the holes in wheels?
Could anyone tell me the exact measures of the rim holes?

Why don't you ask Terrafirma?
 
hey guys,
first of all, I'd like to know the manufacturer of the modular rims in 1st post?

then, I have some issues with Terrafirma Modular Wheels for D2.

Here are some photos:View attachment 112794 View attachment 112795 View attachment 112796 View attachment 112797
As you can see, I have Terrafirma wheels, and genuine STEEL nuts. But the Taper of the nut will not come into the special holes of the rims. Do I have to enlarge the holes in wheels?
Could anyone tell me the exact measures of the rim holes?
The nuts look to fit fine in your pics. The taper is there to locate the stud, not for the nut to sink through the hole on the rim.
 
Hi all,

I've had my modular wheels fitted today...see pics



and



I've got two questions though relating to the hub...detailed pic here

1. does it matter that there is a 1-2mm gap between the wheel and the hub? All alloys i've ever had fitted snug (or came with a plastic ring). The guy at the tyre shop said it should fit snug, however, the modulars I bought were marked as specifically for a D2 (from paddock).

2. does the centre hub need some for of covering? I've trawled the internet and haven't come across any type of part. The pic on paddock's site also shows a D2 where they don't seem covered.

Thanks in advance for your help

As a rule alloy wheels are hubcentric. This means they fit snuggly around the hub to locate them squarely. Steel rims however Studcentric and locate on the studs.

The wheel nuts for the alloys usually have a flat face to them or a large flange. This means they don't really try to move the rim, they just do up tight.

Steel rims usually have a bevelled hole in the rim for the stud and a bevelled nut (sort of cone shaped). By tightening up the nut it should centralise the stud hole around the stud. This is why it's important to always tighten before dropping the vehicle down and to follow sensible tightening patterns.
 
As a rule alloy wheels are hubcentric. This means they fit snuggly around the hub to locate them squarely. Steel rims however Studcentric and locate on the studs.

The wheel nuts for the alloys usually have a flat face to them or a large flange. This means they don't really try to move the rim, they just do up tight.

Steel rims usually have a bevelled hole in the rim for the stud and a bevelled nut (sort of cone shaped). By tightening up the nut it should centralise the stud hole around the stud. This is why it's important to always tighten before dropping the vehicle down and to follow sensible tightening patterns.
Final torque with the vehicle on the ground tho surely?
 
Final torque with the vehicle on the ground tho surely?
Is normally easier yes, although if you put it in diff lock with the hand brake on you can do it with the wheel off the ground. Also depends how you are torquing them, be it a windy gun/electric impact gun or bar.

Although there does seem to be a trend to massively over tighten wheel nuts these days, you really don't need a 3' long breaker bar to tighten them sufficiently :)

Obviously caution should always be used when the vehicle is in the air.
 
I
Is normally easier yes, although if you put it in diff lock with the hand brake on you can do it with the wheel off the ground. Also depends how you are torquing them, be it a windy gun/electric impact gun or bar.

Although there does seem to be a trend to massively over tighten wheel nuts these days, you really don't need a 3' long breaker bar to tighten them sufficiently :)

Obviously caution should always be used when the vehicle is in the air.
usually do mine up tight when in the air (rather than finger tight) then give them a click with the torque wrench when on the ground. Usually they need about a 1/4 turn to hit torque.

Over overtightening wheel bolts can be as bad as under tightening them IMO
 
Why don't you ask Terrafirma?
I sent them a request already... Waiting to get their answer.

The nuts look to fit fine in your pics. The taper is there to locate the stud, not for the nut to sink through the hole on the rim.
Actually not, I tried to tighten them so, and the nuts started to create their "own" holes into the rims, however, I cannot proceed further, as the rim won't be centered in this way.

Does anyone know the measurements of the holes for steel wheels? I have to understand if I have the wrong nuts or I have to enlarge the holes?
 
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