Misfiring issue

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You say you replaced coolant temperature sensor - which one? There is the little one for the gauge, then there is the coolant thermistor which is connected to the ECU, then there is another a coolant temperature switch for the AC fans. The coolant thermistor is the one I think you might be thinking of, these are expensive but can be checked with a meter. Also, if suspect, pull the plug and bridge it with a paperclip, brings the resistance right down so ECU thinks "hot" so mixture shouldn't be rich as in "cold".

Check engine light, easy to resolve, unplug ECU or disconnect battery, this will erase fault codes but not sure if yours will have the fault code display, I believe it should being a US car but not sure if the code display retains any stored faults. If the MAF isn't working properly, the engine will run but it will be rich and check light should come on. the MAF sensor ground, CO trim, battery feed and air flow can all be checked with a meter. If temp thermistor is wrong then possibly ecu is adding cold enrichment. This can be checked with a meter. Throttle pot adjustment is not likely to be your problem but again, simple testing with a multi meter is easy.

Fuel temperature thermistor, not known that to be a problem but this can be checked with a meter.

Don't know if you have looked through the V8 section of the forum, lots of info and answers in there. The 4.2 is no different to the 3.9's in as much as it is the same ignition system and fuel injection ECU etc.I'm fairly sure I have posted how to check most of the EFI using a meter in there so maybe have a gander.

HTH.
 
In your climate champion 11 may be a bit hot. I'd use ngk bp6es myself or champion equivalent.
Check out simonbbc.com. think about buying a complete 35dlm8 distributor with amp to help narrow down. Always good to have a spare
 
In your climate champion 11 may be a bit hot. I'd use ngk bp6es myself or champion equivalent.
Check out simonbbc.com. think about buying a complete 35dlm8 distributor with amp to help narrow down. Always good to have a spare
Alright so ive never heard of this female drive gear is that a lr thing? From what I can see the amps are os... I can order that another time so I need the distributor (http://www.simonbbc.com/distributor...ucts_id=1280:3bcf005a95256662d7740be8de1e0a4e) and the adapter http://www.simonbbc.com/converter-c...t-linking-lead-for-v8-engines-fitted-with-35d anything else besides the amp
 
Alright so ive never heard of this female drive gear is that a lr thing? From what I can see the amps are os... I can order that another time so I need the distributor (http://www.simonbbc.com/distributor...ucts_id=1280:3bcf005a95256662d7740be8de1e0a4e) and the adapter http://www.simonbbc.com/converter-c...t-linking-lead-for-v8-engines-fitted-with-35d anything else besides the amp
Or should I go ahead and do the entire kit for 8mm leads http://www.simonbbc.com/bundle_deal...mance_ht_leads_high_energy_coi_dab118_modulel
 
Early Rover v8 production, p5b & P6 had female on the oil pump and male on the distributor. Yours will be the other way around.
 
So I need a non female drive gear?
No you need female gear on the distributor. Before you remove old one, note position of rotor arm and put new one in to match as it meshes with the drive gear on the cam. You will see the male end of the oil pump gear when you look in. Looks like a flat head screwdriver. Make sure the distributor seats correctly, if not properly home it can jump and cause damage. You then need to set timing, but it will be near enough to fire up if you have rotor in same place and cap in same place as the old one.
Not sure what your timing should be. Doubt you can get as much advance with sub 95 gas. 3deg btdc ? with vac advance disabled
 
Thanks for the replies guys. Repair is gonna be on hold just booked a trip with a bunch of mates gonna be broke once I'm back I will be ordering everything and gonna start narrowing down
 
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