Miles and miles and miles

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HighTower

New Member
Posts
10
Location
Hampshire
Mileage
Been looking at various landy's for a while now, on and off...
I dont want to/ cant afford to spend megabucks on a truck, I was expecting to be looking at a fairly high mileage, but not the 2oo,ooo or 25o,ooo + that i have been seeing, is this sort of mileage common?*
What sort of mileage is it 'game over!'*for a 2-300tdi engine...?
 
Mileage
Been looking at various landy's for a while now, on and off...
I dont want to/ cant afford to spend megabucks on a truck, I was expecting to be looking at a fairly high mileage, but not the 2oo,ooo or 25o,ooo + that i have been seeing, is this sort of mileage common?*
What sort of mileage is it 'game over!'*for a 2-300tdi engine...?

Hello,

Milage in general is "irrelevant". What the milometre it is intended to show you, is the total distance that the vehicle has covered both on and off road. This works in theory but not in practice. You need to take a few factors into consideration. The first factor is that the engine alone, or any other critical mechanical components in the transmission train may have been replaced and not necessarily (in fact more than likely not) with new replacement parts, so the true age and 'coverage' of the components are never truly known unless you have full service history and a comprehensive paper documentation of any work carried out on the vehicle. The second factor is understanding 'milage' and 'work hours'. A Land Rover is a working vehicle; they're not just used to get from A to B. Military Land Rovers spend a hell of a lot of time stationary with their engines running, as will Land Rovers that have been worked on farms or in the break down services for example. Here, you will find that the engine has been worked harder than the remainder of the mechanical components and therefore it will have a significant amount more wear than the other components too. Milage does not tell you engine work hours, work hours which in some cases will be equivalent to having the engine running for weeks or months whilst the vehicle is stationary as so to speak.

To avoid being an awkward sod, the milage (in most situations) will give you a good idea as to how well used the vehicle has been. a 200 or 300 TDi engine is just about run in at 200,000 miles and if they're well maintained (i.e. regular oil, water and filter changes) they'll be good for about 400,000 if not more before they need a re-bore or new rings.

-Pos
 
how do you tell going in to buy that its been looked after not many 10 -15 year old landies have a service record and not many people take their old landys to the garage to have it fixed most is diy or the vehicle would have its own parking space at your chosen mechanics just a thought
 
Exactly right, a 250,000 mile 200 or 300 TDi engine (generally speaking) is nicely run in at that kind of mileage, providing that it has been well maintained. As for knowing how well the engine / vehicle has been maintained it's a matter of applying common sense and being thorough in your investigation. When checking the engine, start by having a general look at the condition of the engine. Check the oil and coolant levels, are they low? Is there oil weeping from or covering most of the engine? Fire her up. It should start immediately without any glow plugs, and you should see a puff of black smoke leaving the exhaust. Repeat a process of hard revs followed by an idle until the engine begins to warm up. Once the engine is warming up, remove the oil filler cap and place your hand over the opening. Can you feel any oily mist being blown at your hand? Next, remove the oil dip stick and press your thumb firmly over the end of the tube for five seconds, whilst someone revs the engine hard. Quickly release your thumb, does the tube hiss or is there any pressure build up / oil launched out of the dipstick tube? What you are doing here is checking for 'blow-by', or in other words, compression gasses that are escaping the cylinder either through gaps created by a blown head gasket, worn piston rings, cracks in the piston crown, cylinder block or cylinder head or even worn valve seals. You'd first have to diagnose the problem and then repair it before it's really usable. Observe the exhaust now. There should be absolutely no smoke at any time during the operation of the engine (besides start up). If you see black smoke when revving the engine, this indicates that the engine is being over fuelled, or it may have had the injection pump tampered with for a little more power. If you see white smoke, this would indicate either incomplete combustion of the diesel (atomisation of the fuel) which means that it's loosing compression somewhere or not firing properly. White smoke could also indicate water in the cylinders which ay be caused by a blown head gasket or cracks in the cylinder block or head. Blue smoke tells you that the engine is burning oil which is not acceptable and will cause nothing but trouble in the future, and ultimately lead to engine failure.

The next thing to do is take the Land Rover for a test drive. If the owner wont let you, there's clearly something that he / she is hiding or that he doesn't want you to uncover. Walk away from that landy and never look back. When you take one for a test drive, ensure that the gears are smooth, with no crunching when changing up or down (it is common in LT77 gearboxes with worn syncros) and ensure that clutch bite is always at the same level and not too sudden. Also engage low ratio and work though the gears. Ideally you want the drive to be very tight with no sloppy gear changes and no juddering or jolting under load and when coming off the accelerator.

Oh and make sure tat you hit the chassis with a hammer to ensure that it's solid. It should make a nice ringing clonk if it's in good shape. If it makes a thud with no ringing sound, or if your hammer / screw driver goes straight through the chassis, it's shot in that particular area so bare that in mind before you buy.

-Pos
 
The next thing to do is take the Land Rover for a test drive. If the owner wont let you, there's clearly something that he / she is hiding or that he doesn't want you to uncover.

-Pos
Not always, if they dunt bring a f/comp ins cert wi em to prove they is covered fer test drive then they dunt get ta drive themselves
 
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