LT230 rebuild

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Grabbed the housing from the other box, the bearing seats are in good shape, the only trouble spot is where the reverse idler sits - but will get the porting burr on it and clean it up:
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Set about getting the oil pump out ready for a clean up of the housing, managed to snap a T20 bit on the screws so resorted to drilling them out:
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Wound the remainder of the screws out by fingers, then drifted out the old bearing race, which was actually in good nick:
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The pump looks like it had been packed in with some moly grease??

Took the cover off the pump and it looks good, just needs a new gasket and o-ring:
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Will degrease & polish the housing after removing the reverse switch and inhibition cam, then will clean up the reverse idler indent.
 
housing will clean up ,you can swap extension housings and front bearing plate but main case and rear bearing support plate must stay together
 
the cast iron case is line bored as a piece though its 2 pieces for shaft alignment ,along edge of both will be a letter stamp to ensure both are kept together during building process
 
Good to know, cheers.

Tried getting the grub screw out for the reverse inhibitor but it's rounded :/ Will just leave the inhibitor place..
 
Thought as much, it's working fine.

Gunked the casing and toothbrushed it over, much cleaner but by no means sparkling.

Cleaned off the mating faces with cup brush on grinder (light touch!), took all the old sealant off a treat and polished up the faces.
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Might give it another gunking yet, and lacquer it up just for ****s n giggles :D
 
nice toy ,i couldnt manage without mine makes undoing nuts simple especially as you can hold shafts /pulleys by hand and not wedge with a long bar as youd need to with other means
 
And according to Ashcroft you can do up all casing bolts with it :p

If it has a low torque setting they are a ysually exceptionally handy, we are on air in the workshop but still, I use it for almost everything :)

Nice one :)
 
nice toy ,i couldnt manage without mine makes undoing nuts simple especially as you can hold shafts /pulleys by hand and not wedge with a long bar as youd need to with other means

Yeah pretty amazing how easily it got that nut off with me just holding the mainshaft to stop it spinning.

The other box I think I spent about 30-45 minutes wedging thinks to get the nut cracked off with a 3/4 breaker bar.

Money well spent.
 
And according to Ashcroft you can do up all casing bolts with it :p

If it has a low torque setting they are a ysually exceptionally handy, we are on air in the workshop but still, I use it for almost everything :)

Nice one :)

Aye low setting is 135nm

High is 950nm :eek:

Reverse high is 1450nm :eek::eek:
 
And according to Ashcroft you can do up all casing bolts with it :p

If it has a low torque setting they are a ysually exceptionally handy, we are on air in the workshop but still, I use it for almost everything :)

Nice one :)

i have 3 different sized guns and with the right one and experience you can ,and i do ,one of the skills we used to teach trainee reconditioners, plus you can buy preset torque sockets
 
i have 3 different sized guns and with the right one and experience you can ,and i do ,one of the skills we used to teach trainee reconditioners, plus you can buy preset torque sockets

or adjustable torque adapter as I have
 
Those last 2 items sound really useful, got a link to a decent version by any chance, or could you throw me the name so I can google?
 
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