LT230 rebuild

Bennehboy said:

Ooh Sykes Pickavant, posh bugger

I'll see how I get on and give you a shout, Donny's a bit closer than Louth

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'tis a bit posh for me Bought it when I did the lt77.
And yes just a bit closer, I went to the very mans place the other day and took about an hour and half.
The offers their and you know where I am if it's needed anyway.

:tea:

This gearbox is having a laugh...

Bought another puller, still cheapo but with stronger legs, this is what happened before one of the legs finally gave way (used a shed load of MAPP on the collar too):


Crackers :/

Sorry to hear it's being a pain

If you only want the case from it, could you just cut it off?

My cheapo puller did the same, just not quite as bad, manage to straighten them out a bit to make useable again.

Where there's a will there's a way, pried the front case off whilst tapping the output shaft bearing outer race in with a suitable drift.

Going to cut the end off the shaft off with a slitting disk on the grinder, job jobbed.



All the gearsets and layshaft will still be salvageable, seem to have the makings of a fine collection!

Actually sod that, I can use the dremel and a small disk to split the collar....

aaronmorris said:

My cheapo puller did the same, just not quite as bad, manage to straighten them out a bit to make useable again.

Click to expand...

The other jaws I have are a lot stronger, thicker cross bars, I'll just bin all the broken bits and make a frankenstein set up

phil540uk said:

Sorry to hear it's being a pain

If you only want the case from it, could you just cut it off?

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Ha, it's hardly your fault buddy

Will get there in the end.... just keep telling myself that the V8 5th gear cruise will be worth the effort.

Bennehboy said:

The other jaws I have are a lot stronger, thicker cross bars, I'll just bin all the broken bits and make a frankenstein set up

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Sounds like a plan Glad you've got it in bits one way or the other though.

Dremel to the rescue...



Getting the 5th & reverse of the main and layshafts is a doddle after that:



The collar that sits under the mainshaft reverse gear was close to being friction welded to the shaft, had to heat it up to get it off - so shaft is probably scrap anyway

Stripped it down completely ready for painting...

Gears & bearings are all in great shape - kept all the shims for when I reassemble with the new innards:


The centre plate (that I'm so good at breaking!) - reverse idler NOT being removed!


It's no wonder Phil had crunching gears, all the synchros are well and truly goosed:


4th gear:


Ready to chuck in my dissasembled gearbox pile:


Bit of wire brushing then these can get painted up:

I'm so gonna need help when I come to taking mine/yours apart!

In fact it'll be more like

Hellllllllllllpppppp!

Mr Noisy said:

I'm so gonna need help when I come to taking mine/yours apart!

In fact it'll be more like

Hellllllllllllpppppp!

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Haha, not a problem at all fella.

Merry X-mas!

All the best, cheers

Cleaned up the main case, and decided to test fit the shafts to check bearing preload.



I think the layshaft seems OK, there's drag (maybe slightly too much?) with the same shim from the donor case, see video here -> R380 layshaft preload - YouTube

Mainshaft doesnt have enough preload, this is with the thickest shim, 2.3mm (other 2 shims I have are 2.1mm) -> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yXJkYEOykcQ?list=UUXNbwoJBaP-xZGcQF4L0Pew

Hoping JamesMartin will know the answer about whether I can get a thicker shim - I suppose I need a thinner spacer for the other side of the bearing too?

EDIT...

Just fired up Microcat and there seem to be a shed load of spacer sizes available:

FTC3761 - 2.290/2.265mm (dunno why there are 2 thicknesses listed, is this the tolerance?), this is probably the thicker one I have but I don't trust the chinese knock off caliper I have

The shims go up in 0.05mm steps from there all the way to 2.940mm

At 10 quid per shim I don't want to 'just take a punt'!

OK so here's some screenshot from microcat, first is the shim selections around and above the thickness of the one I have:




And these are the corresponding shims for the 5th/reverse side of the bearing, so whichever one I get above I'll probably need to thin down the 5th/rev side by the same difference:



Any science behind choosing them?

you can measure shim size needed by building without a shim or a too small shim then measure endfloat with a dti , but from vids they dont look bad as long as m/s has no endfloat ,l/s isnt too heavily loaded shims come in 2 thou variants ,so 2 thou of l/s may be too loose if your changing baulk rings box has 4 ftc3584 and 2 ftc5018 (input shaft and 5th gear

jamesmartin said:

you can measure shim size needed by building without a shim or a too small shim then measure endfloat with a dti , but from vids they dont look bad as long as m/s has no endfloat ,l/s isnt too heavily loaded shims come in 2 thou variants ,so 2 thou of l/s may be too loose if your changing baulk rings box has 4 ftc3584 and 2 ftc5018 (input shaft and 5th gear

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Aye it's got all new baulk rings on. Can't believe I didn't think about using a DTI, doh!

I'll measure it up tomorrow, cheers.

Doesn't appear to be any endfloat -> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9rcZMnzrqU?list=UUXNbwoJBaP-xZGcQF4L0Pew