LR Newbie Questions....

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J

jim cummings

New Member
Posts
134
Location
Norway, Lillehammer
Ok so this is my first Land rover, a Discovery 1 200tdi, manual. I have owned a string of Toyota LC's and thaught it was time to try something new. because I'm a newbie advice on the vehicle is very much appreciated.

So just bought the disco, seams ok. But one thing I noticed is it seams to make quite a clunk if you let the clutch up in a normal manner. The clunk sounds like its slack in the drive chain being taken up. Is this normal or is something in need of attention, for example transfer box, props, UJ?? If you feather the clutch and dont gass too hard it can be smooth but this means driving like a grandad....I notice the problem is worse if your going from forward to reverse..or vice versa.

Also I'm pretty mechanical, whats the usuall service items, eg: oils/filters/grease/adjustments. What should I check is ok basically before I use the vehicle under stress.

Also it has skateboard like wheels on it at the moment, I wish to put on grown up wheels, for example 32" (235/85/16) do I need to modify much to fit these? Is a suspension lift nessesary, or body lift, or trimming?

Thankyou for your advice I want to get the most out of my vehicle, so need to get it ship shape for the job. Jim
 
For the clunking I would check first that nothing is obviously loose like wheel nuts a caliper etc. Can you tell if its front or back? can you feel it through the clutch pedal?
 
I have checked under the car and cant find anything obviously loose. You cannot translate any noise to feeling in the clutch pedal. It seams like the noise is bellow or forward of the transmission. I have rocked the propshafts and they both seam to have some play in them, though there seams to be more on the front. The sound they make when you rock them is as close as I find to the sound when you drive the car. I'm thinkiing to isolate the problem I will des connect the front propshaft so drive is only left to the rear, and see if the noise still exists. Any other ideas?
 
replace your ujs if there is play they dont cost much and busters gives a good how to guide for replacing them.

for tyres there is a sticky at the top of this section that will help you
 
The majority of the play seams to be in the sliding section of the propshaft itself, and there is allot of movement back and forth (side to side) when you twist the propshaft at both the axle and centre , is this normal? Meaning you can twist the p shaft almost 1/4 turn before you feel it begins to turn the wheels.
 
if you can twist the prop 1/4 turn then it is worth replacing them they are about £7-10 each for the gkn/hardy spicers. can be a bit of a pig to do but better than having them fail on you
 
I'm not worried about replacing the UJ's not a big job. However what I didnt make clear is the play seams to be not in the prop shaft (there is some play in the PS but its a few mm max) The majority of the play seams to be in the transfer and front diff. I mean you can twist the PS which remains torsionallt stiff (including UJ's) and it takes 1/4 of a turn before anything happens at the wheels. The rear has half this much play, both the front diff and transfer seam wet as well (leaking oil very very slowly). I just want to know is this normal or not, as on previous jap 4wd they have not had this much free play. Also when you twist it from side to side you get a mechanical clunk as it winds up the slack, I think this is the noise when you change gear or change direction. Thankyou for the tipps Jim
 
Yep, lots of clunking on mine too (originally)

I've had the whole car apart now, and I've found play in these places:

Gearbox, loads. Same after repair.
Transferbox input gear, worn as usual, epic amounts of play. Much better after replacement.
Transfer box, quite a lot.
Propshafts, none.
Diffs, loads. Diff cages very worn giving epic planet gear slop. Diffs now replaced with lockers, substantially less clunk, almost none.

I think your clunk is just wear...
 
Hey Mr Noisy I think your probably correct. I've checked everything and cant fand any obvious problems so probably just wear. I'll change the oils today and see if it improves at all. If not will probably attempt to service transfer box and front diff. Is this very complicated? or expensive. I'm farly competant and have a basic workshop/pit ect.. Thanks for the help. J
 
jim cummings said:
......service transfer box and front diff. Is this very complicated? or expensive. I'm farly competant and have a basic workshop/pit ect.. Thanks for the help. J
Click to expand...

that's what u have to do............i had the same clunk and went out 90% after i replaced the diff(mine was totally threaded cos i used it pretty much without enough oil :doh::frusty::mil8:)

The diff is quite easy and not too expensive to repair ....... i can't say the same about the TB.
 
The thing is if you buy a second hand diff it will probably be the same as yours is. You can visibly see play where the cross shaft should be pressed into the diff cage and it slops about loose.

An oil change will make no difference. Swapping the diffs it's pretty easy, maybe consider looking at the Ashcroft Transmissions website to get an idea of what's available and prices etc. Obviously a rebuilt standard diff will be like new and stop the clunk, or you could upgrade.

The transfer case input gear is not too bad either, but involves removing the transfer case in order to remove it from out of the power take off cover.

There are 6 bolts fixing the TC to the mainbox, but they're fiddly and the TC is bastard heavy.

My transfer case was alright, apart from this input gear. It is a very common replacement, costs 45+vat from ashcrofts.

Both diffs and that gear will sort most of your clunk :)
 
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