Loss of power below 2000rpm

Hi,
check out the Sticky;
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/td4-lack-power-70mph-fixed-77147.html
It Confirms the part number for the boost solenoid for a facelift version of the TD4.
I am going to buy one tomorow or at least order one, and hope it fixes the problem, iv tried taking the air filter off the boost solenoid and this wasn't blocked as I could blow through it easily. Im also going to give it a full service as its got about 200 miles to go until 48K.
But il change one thing at a time to make sure I find the problem. If you manage to fix yours before me please let me know, il let you know if I manage to fix mine.

trustystead said:

Hi,
check out the Sticky;
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/td4-lack-power-70mph-fixed-77147.html
It Confirms the part number for the boost solenoid for a facelift version of the TD4.
I am going to buy one tomorow or at least order one, and hope it fixes the problem, iv tried taking the air filter off the boost solenoid and this wasn't blocked as I could blow through it easily. Im also going to give it a full service as its got about 200 miles to go until 48K.
But il change one thing at a time to make sure I find the problem. If you manage to fix yours before me please let me know, il let you know if I manage to fix mine.

Click to expand...

Ok will attempt mine this weekend! Have ordered part STC4198 and will be here on Sat. That Picture in the link looks different to my engine bay. Got feeling mine could be MAF sensor only because of the smoke and overfueling issue in first start of the day! Do you get any puffs of smoke as soon as it fires up? Mine never used to and now it does especially when the previous trip was hestiant between 1500- 2000 rpm. Any similar sypmtoms to mine?

Hopefully will check this on Sat. In the meantime my brother has bought an OBD11 reader/scanner so might plug it in and see if it puts me in the right directions.

Will keep you updated. Good luck with yours

Il have a look in the morning for smoke when I first start it. The picture is from the bottom of the engine looking up, by lying on your back by the drivers door its up next to the IRD. Iv not had the problem of low power at 70MPH yet but according to shropshire Hippo (think that his name on here anyway) he had low power like mine and then the loss of power at 70 followed for him.

So its drivers side? Can I go through wheel arc to change? Is there step by step guide?

Hi there,

PLugged the freelander into my brothers new toy! A code decoder/scanner. Did a test on the vehicle and no error codes or pending codes. Drove it and did a live data and was fine also. Idle was 797rpm and steady. When I drove it and warmed up well it started to hesitate on pull away. Looking at the live data it seems to pause at 1500 rpm. It was like me letting go of the gas then pressing it. Still no faults found. COuld it be something with throttle? or a still symtpom of maf? or Tubo boost solenoid?

Cheers
Nick

Ok, Boost solenoid is under the car, no you cant go through the wheel arch (maybe possible but why bother to remove loads of stuff when you can reach it easier from under the car).

Step by step. (Takes about 10mins max)
Need a small socket set, think the nuts are 8mm (if i remember correctly) and a flat bladed screwdriver. head torch or torch of some kind.
level surface hand brake on and in gear (engine off),
lie on your back by drivers door and slide under car bout 1/4 of the way.
look up to where the solenoid is using the torch (its next to the IRD on the drivers side easy to see). remember where the pipes fit onto the solenoid.
unplug the electrical connector,(puch the metal clip inwards and pull off).
undo the two nuts securing the solenoid to the bracket.
remove pipes (use flat bladed screwdriver).

push pipes onto new solenoid in correct places.
refit to bracket, (i put the lower nut on half a turn made it easier to refit the solenoid), and tighten nuts up.
refit electrical connector
check its all correct and get out and try it and hope its fixed the problem for you.

Picture of the area is in this sticky.
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/td4-lack-power-70mph-fixed-77147.html

As an update to my situation, I replaced the boost solenoid and its not fixed the problem. But when I rev the car in neutral between 2000 and 2600 it gets very lumpy and quite abit of blue smoke coming out.
just another problem i now need to fix Will be going to speak to a LR specialist next week to see if they can fix the problems.

Went to collect my turbo control solenoid from lr and they had so much attitude it was unreal.
Opened the box when I got home and control solenoid was cracked and in pieces!!! Was so angry and went straight back!

Got my money back so will from another dealer!

Really feel for you as yours is not sorted I know first hand how frustrating it is!

U checked egr valve? U cleaned it ? I going to check maf sensor maybe try and test it but starting to give up!!

Yep checked EGR valve, also have a bypass kit but thats in the boot to try and eliminate everything I possibly can.
The Maf sensor can be checked the values are on the forum somewhere, also on the Rave cd, seen it somewhere but can't find it now, il keep looking.
going to take mine to a LR specialist and see what they can do with it.

trustystead said:

Yep checked EGR valve, also have a bypass kit but thats in the boot to try and eliminate everything I possibly can.
The Maf sensor can be checked the values are on the forum somewhere, also on the Rave cd, seen it somewhere but can't find it now, il keep looking.
going to take mine to a LR specialist and see what they can do with it.

Click to expand...

Hi there,

Any luck? Mine is still the same

Cheers

I haven't been able to post the values for the MAF I have them on my desktop from the Rave cd just not able to post them will try again.

Mines booked in at the specialist on Monday so hopefuly they can find the fault. begining to think its the turbo or possibly a dodgy injector, as when i rev it in neutral at about 2500 it feels like a missfire and i get some smoke but the worrying thing is its blue which is usualy burning oil
Iv given it a full service and changed the crankcase breather filter and still no luck.

will let you know what the garage says next week.

Hope this works, its the values for the MAF sensor iv got them out of the Rave CD. Don't know if they will help you of not.

Dave.

Cheers mate! Any news on yours?

Hi,
Just an update for you, mine has been at the specialists for a few days now and they have come to the conclusion that the ECU needs replacing.
whilst plugged into a diagnostic system it runs badly with a low maf reading typicaly not reading above 400 when reving it, with a strong smell of unburnt fuel in the air.

When the maf is unscrewed and removed from the housing but left attached to the wiring loom it runs loads better with a value of around 800 when reving it, with no smell of unburnt fuel.

I took a photo whilst it was idling of the diagnostic and also found the expected values on the internet, iv attempted to attach these.



It will be recieving a new ECU on Monday I hope this will solve this misterious problem, not good news but if it fixes it il be happy with it once again.

td4 2004 I hope yours gets solved quickly, I fully understand how fustrating it is when they dont run right.
I will let you know how it goes either Monday or Tueday.

Just looked at the data on chasers post on the first page of this thread and it looks like the airflow mg/stroke is approx 100 more than mine when idling, does this suggest anything to anyone? think I am going to have to wait until Monday to see if the problem is fixed.

The higher the airflow the more fuel should be injected.

I can't understand why you got a higher airflow reading when you removed the sensor from the airflow altogether, you should have had a zero value from the sensor, unless the reading was a default value from the ecu? Did you try running with the maf disconnected?

I didn't try it with the MAF disconnected would have been nice to have free reign with the diagnostic machine, but didnt think to try it with it disconnected at the time.

Its a weird fault, as if the values are the wrong way round or something, could be a default value that it is recieving when I say the maf was taken out of the housing it was placed ontop on the engine so should be still air or close enough.

Nah, there has to be sufficient airflow to cool the sensor, you won't get that with it resting on top of the engine. Could maybe be a wiring fault. Try a drive with the sensor disconnected.
The ecu is at least responding the changes you have made so not so sure that is going to be at fault. It's going to be a costly mistake if your wrong.

Thank you all for your input in this issue,
after changing the MAF twice,
the Boost solenoid
and checking all the wiring the ECU was replaced on friday and has fixed the problem costly but atleast its fixed now and I can get back to enjoying it.

Chaser your input has been much appreciated and has pointed me in the right direction for issues to investigate, thank you.

TD4 2004 I hope you get yours sorted, I would recommend taking it to a specialist and get them to sort it for you, your problem sounds similar to mine but then again I thought mine was the same as other peoples and it turned out to be a different fault.

So it does appear that it was an ecu problem then. I can only guess it wouldn't adapt to the new maf signal as it seemed to function correctly in all other respects. That or there was some problem with its contacts or circuitry affecting the incoming maf signal.

Glad you can now enjoy it again, it's a shame it has cost so much but you took the right approach and covered the cheaper and more likely options first.

Glad yours was fixed. Last few days have been ok. Very little puff on first start and no hesitancy. But I have not driven it much as my wife gave birth to our daughter so have been busy with that!

Chaser, would LR picked up of an ECU issue when it was in? Especially when they had to re load latest software.

Next week will check by disconnecting MAF and see if this solves the issue, but mine in so intermittent not sure where to start! Mine is wierd as when I cleaned my original EGR was totally ok for a week. No smoke first start and no hesitancy. Put new one and did the same intermittent issues. Maybe since the service the car is running differently but maybe how it should? Dont know. Prior to service never had smoke on any start up, but maybe I was never looking out for it! lol

In additon to checks, will run vehicle with live date scanner to check MAF reading. Will I be able to tell?