Loss of power below 2000rpm

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trustystead

New Member
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61
Location
UK
Hi,
having a problem with my freelander, there is a loss of power from idle to 2000rpm(approx) when the turbo kicks in.
I have searched on here and thought it would be the MAF sensor, so checked it by unpugging it and it ran much better, so replaced it with a new one, but its not fixed the problem its gone back to running with a loss of power.
Iv checked the voltages to the high pressure fuel sensor and these were slightly lower than what they should of been according to a post on the forum somewhere. wondering if this could be the problem, iv heard of the LR bulletin which replaces the wiring harness to the sensor.

Anyway iv taken it in to the local dealer and having them have a look at it, I was just looking for advice on what it could be so i can be prepared for the outcome, and to make sure they dont try and blag loads of work out of me.

Thanks.
 
trustystead said:
Hi,
having a problem with my freelander, there is a loss of power from idle to 2000rpm(approx) when the turbo kicks in.
I have searched on here and thought it would be the MAF sensor, so checked it by unpugging it and it ran much better, so replaced it with a new one, but its not fixed the problem its gone back to running with a loss of power.
Iv checked the voltages to the high pressure fuel sensor and these were slightly lower than what they should of been according to a post on the forum somewhere. wondering if this could be the problem, iv heard of the LR bulletin which replaces the wiring harness to the sensor.

Anyway iv taken it in to the local dealer and having them have a look at it, I was just looking for advice on what it could be so i can be prepared for the outcome, and to make sure they dont try and blag loads of work out of me.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Did you fit a genuine £200+ Bosch sensor from a trusted dealer or a cheaper aftermarket job. Pierburg do a sensor (usually fitted to the BMWs) for around £50 which is reliable looks exactly the same, but has totally different electrical characteristics & will only work with a roverron Mafam compensator. I've also heard of some people using other good makes of sensors which have turned out to be the same as the pierburg & need the Mafam. Even worse has been a glut of cheap or fake rubbish which doesn't work at all.
 
Hi,
I replaced it with a genuine one which I bought from euro car parts, its this one,

Bosch Land Rover Freelander Td4 (1997-2007) Air Flow Meters - Euro Car Parts UK’s No.1 Car Parts Retailer

I was contacted by the dealer this evening and they are thinking that the ecu needs replacing, but they are going to do some more checks tomorow, il be asking to see what they have checked tomorow.
Does anyone know if its possible to have the ecu remapped by the dealer? would this save having to buy a new one?
Want to ask them what has caused it aswel seams odd to have failed, but then when the MAF is unplugged it runs fine, so thats making me think that the MAF I bought was faulty.
Question is, is it worth getting the dealer to fit a MAF they have in stock and see if this fixes it its just they cost £280, maybe that they will trial fit one for me.
Sorry for the long post just want to give as much info as possible incase anyone can help.
Thanks
 
I agree that you should definitely rule out the MAF first. It's possible you've been sold a duff one innocently & you wouldn't be the first person to fork out for a new ecu only to find the original fault still there. A good understanding dealer should be able to trial fit another one for you though they will have to at least charge for the extra labour. I hope you get sorted.
 
I assume by local dealer you mean a Land Rover dealer. They should be able to read the air flow with live data on T4 (like attached screenshots) and confirm if the readings are out of spec. It does seem reasonable to expect the ecu to be OK if it drives OK with the maf disconnected?

The fuel sensor harness mod is only for vehicles affected by corrosion of the plug contacts that has spread back into the harness so with a thorough inspection you should be able to tell if it's required.
 

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it might be worth your while looking for a guy called RoverRon, I think his site is tuningdiesels.com or similar. The implication is that many NEW MAF sensors do not work. He sells a MAF sensor corrector that copes with this, I have fitted his tuning unit to my 54 plate 5door and it is very very good, the top end performance is much better and the low speed perfomance with the MAF corrected switched in is a revelation.
 
longbowman said:
it might be worth your while looking for a guy called RoverRon, I think his site is tuningdiesels.com or similar. The implication is that many NEW MAF sensors do not work. He sells a MAF sensor corrector that copes with this, I have fitted his tuning unit to my 54 plate 5door and it is very very good, the top end performance is much better and the low speed perfomance with the MAF corrected switched in is a revelation.
Click to expand...


Touch of deja vu here.
 
Hi,
Thanks for the advice refering to Roverron, I have heard of him but didnt want to go down this route as its not fixing the original problem its merely covering it up with something else, which might then somehow cause another problem later on.

Chaser, Yes it is a main land rover dealer, they were able to look at the live data and said that it looks normal when compared to a correctly functioning freelander.
They have also managed to rule out the ecu as being a problem. Which is good news for me as its £800 for a new one, but bad news because its not the problem.
They are going to start looking at the wiring and chase it back to the ecu to check that its all ok.

Im going to look through the haynes manual and make a list of all the possible causes and then see if I can rule them out.
Also found out that when the maf is unplugged it sets all of the sensor readings to a default value and not just the maf which I thought it might do. So im going to make the assumption that is either one of the sensors playing up or its the wiring that goes to the ecu.
 
trustystead said:
Hi,
I replaced it with a genuine one which I bought from euro car parts, its this one,

Bosch Land Rover Freelander Td4 (1997-2007) Air Flow Meters - Euro Car Parts UK’s No.1 Car Parts Retailer
Click to expand...


Hi, sorry to hear about your problem.

If purchasing the new part from Euro Car Parts made no difference, is it possible that you still have a dud part, at the the Euro Car Parts one is broken?
I appreciate you said the LR Dealer compared it to a freebie without an error, but still. It seems so frustrating on your behalf to have replaced the part and not fixed the issue.
 
Last edited:
trustystead said:
Hi,
Thanks for the advice refering to Roverron, I have heard of him but didnt want to go down this route as its not fixing the original problem its merely covering it up with something else, which might then somehow cause another problem later on.

Chaser, Yes it is a main land rover dealer, they were able to look at the live data and said that it looks normal when compared to a correctly functioning freelander.
They have also managed to rule out the ecu as being a problem. Which is good news for me as its £800 for a new one, but bad news because its not the problem.
They are going to start looking at the wiring and chase it back to the ecu to check that its all ok.

Im going to look through the haynes manual and make a list of all the possible causes and then see if I can rule them out.
Also found out that when the maf is unplugged it sets all of the sensor readings to a default value and not just the maf which I thought it might do. So im going to make the assumption that is either one of the sensors playing up or its the wiring that goes to the ecu.
Click to expand...

I'm fairly sure that all that happens when the maf is disconnected is the ecu uses a default value calculated from engine rpm.
 
Thanks Chaser and Phantom mark, I was reading the RAVE cd last night and read the same, but wasn't sure if it was just me looking for solutions.
Il get in contact with the dealer and see if they can trial a new MAF and see if that fixes the problem. Iv also been reading on the forum that the ecu takes time to learn the new values from the new MAF sensor and has taken some people over 1000 miles for it to learn this.
 
Hi Trustystead,

Is the power loss at around 1500 from pulling away from stand still? Notice any smoke?

Regards
 
Power loss is from idle so 750 up to approx 2000 when the turbo kicks in. I havent noticed any smoke really, but haven't been able to drive it for about 2 weeks now. There might have been slightly more smoke but couldn't be sure.
 
My FL went in to LR on Wednesday and was in for 2 days of checks. They decided that it needed new software and I advised to update. Then they did the checks for the syptoms I was getting. Smoke on first start of the day, hesitancy with smoke when warm at low revs.



Had the car for 2 days now and on 2 cold starts (the first ones of the day) no smoke at all. Still was getting hestitancy at low revs with blackish puff of smoke.



Just did 150 miles and did further observations. On motorway no issues. Came off and the first pull away from stand still at 1500 rpm blackish smoke. Its more like it pauses at 1500 rpm before increasing and at the same time blackish smoke.



LR did all the checks with hoses and breather and all seem fine. How much info can they obtain from these diagnostic machines? I.e operation of injectos, Air Flow Sensors? Turbo Solenoid?

I know its not EGR as mine is brand new.

Regards
 
Update,
Got the car back now, they replaced the Maf with a genuine one and it has improved, but still not running correctly. It is still lacking power, when i pull away the first 1/4 of accel pedal travel has an effect but after this it doesn't seam to have much affect until 2000 when the turbo kicks in. Iv been having a search on here and it sounds like the boost solenoid is knackered, found it here by shropshire hippo its on the very last page of the thread;
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/freelander-td4-low-power-67670.html
going to service it this weekend and have a look at the boost solenoid, got my fingers crossed, as this trial and error is getting expensive.
 
trustystead said:
Update,
Got the car back now, they replaced the Maf with a genuine one and it has improved, but still not running correctly. It is still lacking power, when i pull away the first 1/4 of accel pedal travel has an effect but after this it doesn't seam to have much affect until 2000 when the turbo kicks in. Iv been having a search on here and it sounds like the boost solenoid is knackered, found it here by shropshire hippo its on the very last page of the thread;
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/freelander-td4-low-power-67670.html
going to service it this weekend and have a look at the boost solenoid, got my fingers crossed, as this trial and error is getting expensive.
Click to expand...

Hi there,

Was going to buy MAF this weekend but not sure now!!!! So confused and equally as frustrated with the whole thing! Not sure what to do. I was thinking of going the cheaper option first, but the only concern I have is that on the first start of the day, it seems to kick out a bit of burnt fuel on fire up. All the other starts are ok. Then when warm revs pause at 1500-1750 rpm with a little puff of smoke then free revs. Dont know if the Turbo boost solenoid will cause the smoke. Again mine was in with LR (main dealer) and they could not find any faults. On motorway the other day and at around 70 when flooring it, no omph! So similar symptoms but I have little puff of smoke at low end.

Might take maf off and clean sensor at the weekend and change boost solenoid. Read an artical on You tube where you can spray the sensor with some carb clean and just takes of any build up on the platinum sensor.

what u think? Anyone any other ideas?
 
td4 2004 said:
Hi there,

Was going to buy MAF this weekend but not sure now!!!! So confused and equally as frustrated with the whole thing! Not sure what to do. I was thinking of going the cheaper option first, but the only concern I have is that on the first start of the day, it seems to kick out a bit of burnt fuel on fire up. All the other starts are ok. Then when warm revs pause at 1500-1750 rpm with a little puff of smoke then free revs. Dont know if the Turbo boost solenoid will cause the smoke. Again mine was in with LR (main dealer) and they could not find any faults. On motorway the other day and at around 70 when flooring it, no omph! So similar symptoms but I have little puff of smoke at low end.

Might take maf off and clean sensor at the weekend and change boost solenoid. Read an artical on You tube where you can spray the sensor with some carb clean and just takes of any build up on the platinum sensor.

what u think? Anyone any other ideas?
Click to expand...

just spoke to LR main dealer and part number is STC4198. Can anyone confirm?
 
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