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Loss of power again.

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by cooperkerr, Sep 23, 2007.

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  1. cooperkerr

    cooperkerr New Member

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    Hello,
    Please bear with me. I have read all the other threads and I need an explanation for mine. I have a 2000 W reg 1.8 petrol Freelander.(my first)I have had it since July 27 2007. Up to now I have had to replace the rear tailgate handle and a new clutch having only done 63k. Today I took it for a run in the countryside and the following happened: doing about 60-65 on a level road I noticed a loss of power in 5th gear. I changed down to 4th and it still happened. I managed to pull over. the engine kept running fine. I opened the bonnet to have a look and I couldn't see any obvious problem. I got back in and it drove fine. 1st,2nd,3rd,4th and 5th absolutely fine. Did another 10 miles on a level road and it was fine. As I came to a slope it started to lose power again but this time it stopped altogether. The engine kept running but this time I turned it off. I opened the bonnet and nothing looked wrong but it did smell of burning oil though. This time the engine wouldn't start so I waited about 5 minutes and it started and pulled away as normal. I am now back home, thankfully, but I am really p*ssed off to say the least. How I wish I had found this forum before I bought it. Anyway I have another 4 weeks left on my warranty from the garage so I need to get this sorted asap.
    Everything else was normal. I have noticed it is sluggish anyway but I thought it was because its Land Rover. Temperature was normal. Cant think of anything else.
    Please help.
     
  2. G-man

    G-man BBQ king

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    when it has cooled down open the expantion / header tank and look for a mayonase stylee liquid, then pull the dipstick out and check the colour of the oil is it brown and sludgy? next start the engine with the header tank cap off, can you smell petrol or exhaust gasses in it?
     
  3. slob

    slob Well-Known Member

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    oo sounds like over heating are yer sure yer temp gauge is reading correctly
     
  4. cooperkerr

    cooperkerr New Member

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    Yes temp gauge was reading normally. The head gasket was changed by the garage. All the fluids seem to be normal. When I open the fuel tank cap there is a rush of air, is this normal? The only thing I can think of in the overheating department is apparently there are 2 bleed valves on the heat exchanger for the 4wd which are further back and fiddly to reach and it is possible to get air locks here.
     
  5. G-man

    G-man BBQ king

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    so no smell from the header tank? what does the oil smell like the nose is a one of the mechanics best tools during diagnostics, there should be a 'rush of air' from the fuel tank as it is sealed unlike older cars where they vented
     
  6. slob

    slob Well-Known Member

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  7. cooperkerr

    cooperkerr New Member

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    Oil smells like oil. header tank hardly got any smell. No gunk on the cap either.
     
  8. G-man

    G-man BBQ king

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    if you only have 4 weeks of warrenty left i would get down the stealers quick and qet them to sort it but it sounds like it could be leading up to hgf or worse
     
  9. cooperkerr

    cooperkerr New Member

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    It has already had a head gasket failure at 63k. I'm beginning to think that although they replaced the head gasket it didn't identify the underlying cause and its going to happen again. Its not a main dealer its just a garage and I am having to fight for everything thats gone wrong so far
     
  10. bigshane

    bigshane New Member

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    My 1.8 used to do the " loss of power "thing and it was the fuel filter.Over a short journey the filter would suck all the crap up and bung up the fuel flow and you got loss of power, pull over and wait and all the crap settles again and off you go till it happens again.I think the fillter is &#163;25 ,just screw the pump out of the boot floor and swap the filter.
     
  11. cooperkerr

    cooperkerr New Member

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    I've just searched for a replacement fuel filter and they are all saying it's in the tank. Is this the right one? WFL100160.

    Thanks to all who replied.
     
  12. Optimus Prime

    Optimus Prime Well-Known Member

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    if you are having trouble with any garage, the get up early and park across the entrance works well. Have used it only the once but never had a problem there again.
     
  13. G-man

    G-man BBQ king

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    i would advise against that, you might find a car wedged in the side of yours
     
  14. Optimus Prime

    Optimus Prime Well-Known Member

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    I have to be completely honest and confess it was a company car, it had been back numerous times for the same fault, and both the company and I had had enough. It did get fixed though. (wasn't a landy)
     
  15. G-man

    G-man BBQ king

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    a bloke i was training with had someone park across the workshop doorway so they rolled the car onto its roof and dragged it across the carpark while the ex-customer was ranting at the boss in the office
     
  16. Northern Irelander

    Northern Irelander Well-Known Member

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    RE - This air rush when you open the fuel cap, have you went for a drive with the cap removed? sometimes blocked vent to the fuel tank will cause this, negative pressure (vacuum) in the tank prevents the pump from functioning at optimum rates. If it drive ok with the cap removed then this is your problem.

    No there doesnt appear to be an airlock..... your temp gauge will show an immediate rise if there is an airlock in the coolant. Temp sensor is on the outlet of the engine. Bleed point 1 (8mm bolt) is just under the air filter housing, you have to remove this to access the valve. Check you air filter while you are at it.

    The other is on the upper heater matrix hose, just in front of the bulk head.

    As mentioned above check your fuel filter
     
  17. The Mad Hat Man

    The Mad Hat Man Well-Known Member LZIR Despatch Agent

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    not sure I agree with this - as it only measures temp of water returning to head, if an airlock is in the head, it will take ages to respond, much too late to alter lots of nasties happening.
    It is a known problem with cavitation inside the head - the water temp cannot respond quickly enough and air is a much poorer conductor of heat that water.
     
  18. Northern Irelander

    Northern Irelander Well-Known Member

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    No MHM the sensor is on the outlet, it fluctuates as soon as any temp variation occurs.
    Link has diagrams that best explain flow direction
    '+'

    Cavitation should only really occur when the pump is at higher speeds



    It must be the KV6 you are thinking of, I can only speak for the 1.8
     
  19. bigshane

    bigshane New Member

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    Yes its in the tank, inside the fuel pump.Lift the carpet under the rear seats,unscrew the lid,unscrew the ring that holds the pump in place,pull out pump,pop it open ,and theres the filter.:cool:
     
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