Looking for advice on Wobble over 50MPH Freelander 2

Whats the rack like ?

also check if you;ve lost any wheel weights

This still seems to be ongoing, just not as prominent these days and seems to be coming from right drivers side area. As a recap this is what I've done so far. Swapped wheels about. New set of tyres with full balance done. Track rod replaced, bottom ball joint replaced, drop link replaced. Checked all rubber mounts. Bearings done year before along with brake discs. Things i've noticed that make it happen. If going up even a slight incline and push the engine a little at speed it vibrates. Driving around a bend at speed and turning left so leaning onto drivers side vibrates with what i would describe as also having a slight bumping (as if maybe bearing has a bad ball). Tyre pressures all checked. Driving at lower speeds nothing happens, no noise or wobble, only at higher speeds above 50MPh. I'm usually quite savvy with these things, but this has me stumped. Getting close to putting it into a garage and I never do that.

It does point to driveshaft, unless your engine has a misfire under load?

freelance said:

It does point to driveshaft, unless your engine has a misfire under load?

Click to expand...

Agreed.

So drive shaft as in the three bearing set up part or whole thing. i did check this recently when doing some of the repairs. The side that i think is causing the problem has little to no movement. up down or back and forward. other side however has some movement up down at the three bearing side. not sure which side is correct?

My guess is a tripod joint is stiff. So that'll be an in board joint. There is normal a small amount of play. No play could indicate a problem with the joint.

So this would come as a complete unit, from spindle shaft to spindle shaft. No need or way to just replace the tripod joint? or better to just replace all when doing this. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2006-2015-LAND-ROVER-FREELANDER-2-2-2-TD4-OSF-OFF-SIDE-FRONT-DRIVESHAFT-/172622533198?fits=Model:Freelander+2|Cars+Year:2007&hash=item28311ad24e:g:XZQAAOSwvjdZQq71
So this is what I basically want to purchase, Is this possible with only trolly jack and axle stands?
Also is this just a case of pulling out of drive or is it a strip down to remove bolts.

You nees to strip down the suspension sufficiently to remove the drive shaft. There's the hub nut to shift too. These can be tight or really really tight!!
The gearbox will need topping up after the drive shaft is pulled out. Also don't buy cheap shafts as these are generally rubbish. OE or genuine are the only shafts to fit.

The link i supplied was just a quick search so i knew what i was after. Wouldn't buy cheap, been there before.
Suspension is not a problem, done that already when i did the bearings.
What i need to know is this.
When i have suspension out of the way, the hub nut as you call it. is this the section that the three bearings bit goes into? Is this a CV Joint?
Is it threaded or just a pull out?
If threaded i would assume that is what holds that section of shaft in place, so that would answer my question. It will pull out once this nut is loosened.
If i need to pull it out, is there something, as in a nut at the splined shaft internally that holds it in place.
I have the technicians workshop manual, so I can find out. But if someone already knows this saves me having to search through it.
One more question as i've seen a couple of contradictory posts on here. To determine what side is actually faulty. Should there be some movement in the drive shaft or not. At the three bearings should there be some movement up and down, left and right? If it's no movement thats wrong, this would point to the side that i think is problematic.

There will always be a bit of side to side play at the inner CV joint.
The inner CV is just clipped into the gearbox/ IRD. I lever behind it will pop it out.